7 replies to this topic

[mattek3]

Morning All,

 

I'm looking for some advice regarding the wiring work needed for the fitment of a B18c into the 3G chassis.

 

I currently have a 96 spec B18c out of a JDM ITR and its engine loom. The car is a 1.5i GT.

 

I seem to have spent far too much time working out mechanical stuff and not enough on wiring!

 

Can any experienced B series guys offer advice as to the best way to tackle this?

 

Thanks

[3rd gen sinner]

I do not personally have a B-series. I did however convert to OBD1. I simply bought an OBD1 harness from Rywire. Its a complete harness and all I have to do is connect 4 wires from my car to it.

[sedanman]

Build your own harness from an eg or integra and install it to run the motor only or buy the hasport race harness is what i did

The first time i did a b series inti a 3g i built my own harness and it functioned perfectly just looked ugly

The second time into my crx I bought one for a universal car from hasport because mine was a carb car and had not much of a harness

I just had to wire in about 10 wires wich came with a diagram and the car fired up no cel's

Hasport is the way to go when ordering get a budget one (399) then under chassi option its race or none something like that

Dont get the sub harness with all the relays and fuse box it cost to much just wire it in on your own with a couple inline fuses and relays from autozone

Best 400 i ever spent on this car

Goodluck,
Billy.

[solorex]

I am currently going through the same process.  I have a carb'd car that I am putting a B-series in.  After a lot of reading, I decided to pull the complete ODB1 engine and chassis harness out of an EG.  The only painful part seems to be removing all the wires not required for the ECU from the chassis harness, and splicing in the existing stuff in the car.

[anjin]

Thats how I did mine as well. Had a half cut from a 4 door integra DC2, and transplanted the entire wiring harness back to the connector at the rear of the drivers seat (RHD , btw).  Took out a lot of wiring - power windows. power and heated seats, auto tranmission, SRS system.  About 3.5 kilograms worth.  Only made one mistake with the distributor/tacho wire, which needed redoing.  I did remove the harness and connector that the diagnostics use, which I kind of regret but with an aftermarket ecu was not a real problem.

I'd suggest using the donor instrument pod as well, to avoid rewiring all that.  Bit fiddley to fit into the G3 dash, but less work than rewiring.

 

Otherwise, if the G3 is already FI, you can just add the necessary wires and the adaptor harness for the ecu. 10- 15 wires sounds about right - extra for the distributor, extra for the electronic idle control, extra for the vtec and knock senor, and a 4 wire O2 sensor. 

 

If you don't already understand car wiring you will be a gun after this swap.

[Urxqsd]

Im in the same boat at the moment.

I will be running a obd2a engine so am thinking of utilising either a EK or CRV harness. As i have a carby shell ill pretty much just wire up everything into the harness then run a jumper harness to my p28 ecu so i can keep my current maps

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[f20bcivic]

My 86 was also carbed I just transferred the whole indash and engine harness from my 90 crx then what I did is I just cut and spliced the wires to power all my light brakes etc to the crx fuse box and got rid of the oem fues box. everything works great!

[Screech]

Thats how I did mine as well. Had a half cut from a 4 door integra DC2, and transplanted the entire wiring harness back to the connector at the rear of the drivers seat (RHD , btw).  Took out a lot of wiring - power windows. power and heated seats, auto tranmission, SRS system.  About 3.5 kilograms worth.  Only made one mistake with the distributor/tacho wire, which needed redoing.  I did remove the harness and connector that the diagnostics use, which I kind of regret but with an aftermarket ecu was not a real problem.

I'd suggest using the donor instrument pod as well, to avoid rewiring all that.  Bit fiddley to fit into the G3 dash, but less work than rewiring.

 

Otherwise, if the G3 is already FI, you can just add the necessary wires and the adaptor harness for the ecu. 10- 15 wires sounds about right - extra for the distributor, extra for the electronic idle control, extra for the vtec and knock senor, and a 4 wire O2 sensor. 

 

If you don't already understand car wiring you will be a gun after this swap.

 

Pretty much what I did with my 84 when I installed the 99 CR-V B20

 

Im in the same boat at the moment.

I will be running a obd2a engine so am thinking of utilising either a EK or CRV harness. As i have a carby shell ill pretty much just wire up everything into the harness then run a jumper harness to my p28 ecu so i can keep my current maps

Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk

 

I used 99 CR-V wiring and emissions in my 86 Civic Si when installing the B20Z. Only things still stand out from 10 years ago to really work out when using the cabin harness from donor are side marker controller and 87 Integra LS combo switch is very close to CR-V's combo switch. I was able to remove the power window, "fancy" heater controls (though in a CRX that wiring may be usable) and rear door locks/sensors. I had to extend clock wires on dash and shorting the hazard switch wires. I also added cruise and keyless entry though, other wise I could have removed more wires. To save some time I did graft the main cabin harness of the CR-V  into the Civic's OE cabin harness next to the driver's seat. All of the wiring front to back was moved from that 86 Civic Si to my 84 1500S when I converted it to a 2000S along with the fuel tank and fuel lines.