18 replies to this topic

[Old School REX]

Ok, I have an adjustable rear pan-hard bar in my DD CRX with end links that are obviously of poor quality in the bushing department. It was included with the car when I bought it and is supposedly from roadracegear.com; it was also brand new. After installing the bar it only took about 3 months of daily grind to make the bar start to make popping noises. I've dropped the bar about 3 times now only to find the bushing play getting worse and worse. I keep shoving a bunch of grease in there best I can (no grease fitting) which hushes it up for about a week; then its back to popping around, even when I'm driving on a smooth road. I don't need or want to replace the whole bar, as I think it would be better (and more cost effective) to just replace the end links with ones of a VERY high quality...

I need people to speak up that have real experience with things like this (the likes David or Kaka) so I don't go throwing my money away on some that will only blow up again in a year. lol I also am a total NooOOb on these things, so what the heck do I need to know about size? Thread size/pitch for sure, and the ID of the hole in the bushing for sure. But for the spacers I have to work I assume I would also need to get one that the bushing is the same width as the one I have now. All of which are measurements I'm capable of taking.

But where to order? Which is best? What type of bearing? I don't care about cost.... so long as their not some crazy exotic and un-neccissary material. I just need something that will last in a DD.

THANKS so much for ANYONES input who would like to help out if you know what you're talkin' about.

[rickshank]

Get the dimensions (length, width, hole diameter, threads) and match it to something in the Aurora bearing catalog. Don't be too surprised at the price, good rod ends cost $....

[jsgprod]

The last few times I have bought some, I've been getting them from AEDMOTORSPORTS.

For what you're looking for I'd suggest the teflon lined ones listed on the page linked. The precision or extra strength ones should be more than strong enough for the panhard bar.

Jay

[firstgencrx]

If the car is truly a daily driver, I would think that the rod ends would start to be clickers after about 3 to 4 thousand miles. Maybe even less. On the track, I would expect the joints to last about two seasons.

Jay is right about using the Teflon lined joints, but I wouldn't expect a lot of life out of them if used on the street.

Now, this next part is just my opinion, so take it with a grain of salt:

Without a doubt, the Aurora bearings are the best. But, if you buy a bearing from the source Jay provides, you will pay 1/3 to 1/5th the price. I would personally buy my bearings from Jay's source. Why? Simply because the Aurora bearings will not even come close to lasting 5 times longer than the ones from AED Motorsports.

David

[Old School REX]

GREAT replies guys. Thanks so much. So, my question is this... what are we DD guys supposed to do about an adjustable bar? I assume we need one with bushings like the stocker with adjustment added in the center. Now; who wants to make it?

Am I hearing that correctly? there really isn't any end links that will "last" in a DD for more than a few thousand miles?

[Old School REX]

Wow... I hate to sound so useless... but there are just so many options on that site... I need to get my measurements first so I know whats even offered in the two different sizes I need. But then what? I don't have a clue what all that on the description of each link means... (besides the measurments bit) I'm so lost right now...

Anybody wanna explain to the nooby?

EDIT: the prices I'm seeing aren't too bad either.. way better than a whole new bar!! I expected alot worse...
DOUBLE EDIT: After a bit of poking around on the site, I have deduced that one of the best end links available (at this site) are the RJMX-T Series 3 PC Male Heavy Duty unit. Would that be correct? Because of its Teflon lining and its genearal purpose. Would I be correct?

[Old School REX]

Sorry for the tripple post, but check these bad boys out...

Would keeping the road grime and rain water out of the bearing not help extend the life of the link? Just a thought.

LINK

[jjamiemmark]

I am having the same issue with my roadracegear.com after 4000 km, the rod ends are crap.

[Old School REX]

I am having the same issue with my roadracegear.com after 4000 km, the rod ends are crap.

Ill keep you posted on what I buy and how they work. Hopefully I can get the bar off and get some measurements soon.

[chedda_j]

On another note:

If you do install a very high grade of sphericals, im sure they would last a long time, but the price difference is quite alot. The rod ends i use are chrome moly mid grade sphericals used in conjucture with the poly bushings, which should prevent alot of the wear that you see with these things. There is another way to build these, but it would eliminate the sphericals. Rather than have two adjustable rod ends on either end, you just have a single lh/rh threaded rod in the middle of the bar, with two threaded bungs, a nut in the center, and two jams. Its a good way to design these things but again, it would eliminate the sphericals, which is a bummer.

Low Grade: Steel on steel
Mid Grade: Chrome Moly
High Grade: Stainless/Teflon Race/Full Teflon

I have messaged you about were to find a good set. Hope i can help. I would really love to know what the specs are on the rod that you have, what size of rod ends they actually used.

[Old School REX]

On another note:

If you do install a very high grade of sphericals, im sure they would last a long time, but the price difference is quite alot. The rod ends i use are chrome moly mid grade sphericals used in conjucture with the poly bushings, which should prevent alot of the wear that you see with these things. There is another way to build these, but it would eliminate the sphericals. Rather than have two adjustable rod ends on either end, you just have a single lh/rh threaded rod in the middle of the bar, with two threaded bungs, a nut in the center, and two jams. Its a good way to design these things but again, it would eliminate the sphericals, which is a bummer.

Low Grade: Steel on steel
Mid Grade: Chrome Moly
High Grade: Stainless/Teflon Race/Full Teflon

I have messaged you about were to find a good set. Hope i can help. I would really love to know what the specs are on the rod that you have, what size of rod ends they actually used.

Great info right here man. And thanks for the PM, I got it and will be looking at all my options. I'll post the specs up as soon as I find a day to pull it and measure. I'm so thankful for all the help I've gotten on this topic!

[Toneco]

I need a set aswell : ( have a OG RPR panhard bar.

[chedda_j]

I need a set aswell : ( have a OG RPR panhard bar.

Hey toneco, what size of rod ends do you have? I can source a set for you, as a favour.

[Toneco]

I could probably get the measurements this weekend gotta take off the bar.

[horacioandre]

i'm looking too.

What do you think about SKF?

what size should i buy?

tnks.