spriteun

southern cars are a Yankees wet dream. I moved to Dallas w 2, bought 7 more here. no more salted bolts. open a drum, and it's mint.

That's what I thought, but at least in Houston, the rust is just in different places. Instead of from the bottom up, it's more from the top down. I have a few rust pin holes in my a pillar. The sunroof panel is basically swiss cheese but covered in silicone, and I think the normal rust under the hatch seal, my 87 CRX had it there as well. Probably few to no updates from me during the summer months from me, it's entirely too warm in the garage for my taste. My car is driveable at the moment all be it illegally I need to get the exhaust replaced and then inspected/registered. I actually got pulled over during a quick test drive around my neighborhood, I got off because the car was insured and I explained all the issues I was working through. Definitely some performance issues, the engine severely bogged down any time I tried to give it throttle around 2k RPM. I'm thinking it may be an injector issue because one hisses, but legality is my next priority because I'm probably selling my DD Civic Si and want to ensure I have something in stick in the fleet to drive still. 

Just an update from this past weekend. As I was about to start fiddling with the proportioning valve, I decided to take another look at the rear brake lines, and I disconnected the hardline coming right out of the back of the car to the brake hose and I was getting fluid, it turned out the issue was actually the rubber section being collapsed or something. Surprisingly I was able to get a brake hose at Advance (the guy at Advance was equally shocked he had it in stock, but I found it at this particular location online first) and then installed it and I have fully functioning brakes and e-brakes. I took the car a few times around the block and it worked well. It's really refreshing to just hit the e-brake in the driveway. I still want to eventually do bigger brakes in the front, but this past weekend the goal was to get the CRX out of the garage so I could do some a/c work on the VW, as the a/c in it has been half heatedly working for about the past year or so due to a bad a/c control valve.

Next things to do are get a new exhaust system put on, get inspected and get registered.

pt II  (for those who haven't already checked it out)

http://jalopnik.com/...take-1770433809

I haven't really made much or any progress on the visible side. I've mostly been trying to sure up the internals and mechanical bits. I updated my prior posts to include some video content I had. I'll work on digging up some of the relevant photos I have.

I did some more work this weekend, basically all the things are clogged
 
I got the wheel cylinder in, however I basically had to take the inards of the new one and put them into the old cylinder. The old cylinder wasn't bad, no rust or pitting or anything. The issue old vs new was that the new one had bolts attached, whereas the one had bolts that went into it, and the new one didn't come with nuts. Either way it seemed fine, and I started bleeding, I got it to where I thought it was good, and moved on to the other wheels as I wanted to flush out all the old fluid anyway. I circled back around for a good final bleed, this time I had a few good pedal pumps then it firmed up, and then .... nothing from the bleeder. I took the bleeder out, still no pressure, took the hard lines off that connect to the cylinder, still nothing Thanks to the facebook redpeppers I'm guessing I have a clogged line or proportioning valve so that'll be the project this weekend. What ever the clog is I'd have to image it's rather large because the ammount of pressure that the lines can take, and the fact that absolutely 0 brake fluid is now getting through surprises me. I was orginially doing a vacuum bleed, then went to the method with a bottle some brake fluid in and some tubing that goes well below the brake fluid time and pumping similar to It was with the latter method that I got the clob, however I also tried going back to the vacuum and still couldn't get anything.
 
After complete frustration with the brake line I moved on to getting the wiper fluid system going. I'm thinking step 1 should have been to empty the resovoir, but I wasn't even sure if the pump was going to work (bc the fuse was missing). I replaced the fuse, topped off the resovoir, and then tried it out, and I could hear the pump and water was flowing. At this point I was pretty stoked, I just needed to run some tubing back through the cowling and put in a new T bc the T part was broken. I got that in and connected everything up..... and nothing both nozzles ended up being clogged. The drivers side I got cleared as I was able to use the pressure from the working line from the other side to flush it out, but as I don't have stretch arm strong arms I couldn't do that on the passenger side. I tried a spray bottle, and tried squirting, that somewhat worked but kept re-clogging almost immediately. I ended up using some old guitar string which worked and the front squirters are now working. I'll have to tackle the rear one this weekend.
 
One fun thing that started while I was testing the squirter is that the rear wiper decided it wants to be on as soon as the key is turned, so that's another thing to look into. The bad part is that I didn't have a wiper blade attached when it decided to start this :-/ It seems like the wiper arm connection is a tad unusual as well so I'll have to kludge together something to get a new one attached. When I went to Autozone they were rather perplexed by the connection.