This question is for anyone in the know about the Integra disc brake swap.
I grabbed the whole rear section out of the '89 before I junked it and stripped it down yesterday. My question is, on the RH side there is the sway bar type linkage with the bearing that goes through the knuckle and trailing arm. Do I re-use the 'teg stuff, or do I just bolt on the new knuckle/carrier to the CRX original stuff?
The FAQ just says bolt it on, but it's not specific enough. I'm just making sure I have all the parts I'm going to need before I tear my CRX down to swap over.
Thanks for the info,
Dan-O
2
'teg Brake Question Not In The Faq's
Started by Dan-O, Nov 03 2003 07:15 PM
37 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 03 November 2003 - 07:15 PM
#2
Posted 03 November 2003 - 07:18 PM
#3
Posted 03 November 2003 - 07:20 PM
We just bolted everything onto the CRX axle...apparently the teg one is a tad wider.
It's imperative that you swap the master cylinder; we haven't yet and the car has worse stopping power than before. We opted to shave down the teg m/c to fit into
the bell housing, rather than the 85 4 disk Prelude one that is recomended. It should be together by next weekend.
JAKOB
It's imperative that you swap the master cylinder; we haven't yet and the car has worse stopping power than before. We opted to shave down the teg m/c to fit into
the bell housing, rather than the 85 4 disk Prelude one that is recomended. It should be together by next weekend.
JAKOB
1987 Honda CRX Si 1.6 DOHC TURBO (ZC)
1999 Honda Civic Dx
Sold:
1999 Civic SiR
2002 Lexus IS300
1999 Honda Civic Dx
Sold:
1999 Civic SiR
2002 Lexus IS300
#4
Posted 03 November 2003 - 07:49 PM
Don't do it. The rear disks will slow your car down. The Aluminum HF drums is a better option:
lighter weight, less rotational mass and unsprung weight
no need to change M/C or portioning valve
Stops as well as disks
easy to do, you only need to replace the rear drum backing plate and the drum.
cheap, aluminum drums can be found in the boneyard for about $15 each
Scott
lighter weight, less rotational mass and unsprung weight
no need to change M/C or portioning valve
Stops as well as disks
easy to do, you only need to replace the rear drum backing plate and the drum.
cheap, aluminum drums can be found in the boneyard for about $15 each
Scott
Form Follows Function
#5
Posted 03 November 2003 - 08:05 PM
I used the whole integra axel in my swap it was easyer that way cause i wanted the sway bar from what im told the axels are the same its the brake assemblys them selves that are diffrent my friend (wilq) had some machining done on the rotor and part of the callaper bracket to make it sit in more. if weight is a factor for you you should go with the aluminum drums its a couple of pounds lighter. But i think disc brakes stop better
"GUTS" is arriving home late after a night out with the guys, being assaulted by your wife with a broom, and having the guts to say, "Are you still cleaning or are you flying somewhere?"
<---- Me Being Sniped by CHRISFDUDE on EBAY!! HAHAHA
<---- Me Being Sniped by CHRISFDUDE on EBAY!! HAHAHA
#6
Posted 03 November 2003 - 09:36 PM
I like the sex-appeal of four wheel discs.
Weight is not really an issue for me, it's just a regularly driven street car.
Weight is not really an issue for me, it's just a regularly driven street car.
#7
Guest_-TJ_*
Posted 03 November 2003 - 10:03 PM
Dan - If I'm not mistaken, the only differences aside from the internal sway bar is the length of the beam-to-spindle mounting studs and the obvious braking parts.
Way back in the day when I replaced my drums with rear disc (1995?) I retained the CRX beam and swapped just the disc brake related stuff. Make sure you use the integra hubs, or replace the wheel studs in the CRX hubs. The integra ones are longer due to the rotor thickness as I recall.
I don't believe that the integra beam itself is any wider than the CRX unit. As I remember from my swap (again, 1995?) the additional width came from the thickness of the rear disc parts.
If I'm wrong, or not telling you what you want to hear, just track down gtpilot. He has recently done the rear disc swap.
Way back in the day when I replaced my drums with rear disc (1995?) I retained the CRX beam and swapped just the disc brake related stuff. Make sure you use the integra hubs, or replace the wheel studs in the CRX hubs. The integra ones are longer due to the rotor thickness as I recall.
I don't believe that the integra beam itself is any wider than the CRX unit. As I remember from my swap (again, 1995?) the additional width came from the thickness of the rear disc parts.
If I'm wrong, or not telling you what you want to hear, just track down gtpilot. He has recently done the rear disc swap.
#8
Posted 03 November 2003 - 10:54 PM
Cool. Thanks all for the input.
I was a little thrown off by the RH trailing arm with the extra bearing/sway bar set-up. I will press off the spindle from that extra bearing tomorrow. I already popped the studs out of the Integra hubs. The bearings didn't visually look all that good. Plus, the LH side inner race stayed on the spindle so I wouldn't use it anyways.
The doner car is a ton more rusty that my Honda, so I wouldn't have bolted it straight in anyways, but it would've been great to have that sway bar. Just when I thought my car handled great, I find out that I could've added a sway bar and make it better.
I was a little thrown off by the RH trailing arm with the extra bearing/sway bar set-up. I will press off the spindle from that extra bearing tomorrow. I already popped the studs out of the Integra hubs. The bearings didn't visually look all that good. Plus, the LH side inner race stayed on the spindle so I wouldn't use it anyways.
The doner car is a ton more rusty that my Honda, so I wouldn't have bolted it straight in anyways, but it would've been great to have that sway bar. Just when I thought my car handled great, I find out that I could've added a sway bar and make it better.
#9
Posted 03 November 2003 - 10:54 PM
QUOTE (cbstdscott @ Nov 3 2003, 05:49 PM)
Don't do it. The rear disks will slow your car down. The Aluminum HF drums is a better option:
lighter weight, less rotational mass and unsprung weight
lighter weight, less rotational mass and unsprung weight
Come on man! 4 wheels disc brakes Kick ass over the Drum brakes. when I was racing with the rear Drums I had to bleed them and adjust them almost every session, The rear disc's need new pads once a year and bleeding twice a year. Plus you can get lots of different compounds for the rear disc.
Of course this is my experience on the track and the Drums work just fine on the road.
#10
Posted 04 November 2003 - 08:04 AM
I'm with Doodson! I'm sick of seeing this argument from Scott! If drum brake were the way to go, wouldn't EVERY race car on the planet use them!?
GEEZ
GEEZ
Must.....go......racing.......
#11
Posted 12 November 2003 - 10:17 PM
FYI because the info around here is cloudy about master cylinders...
An '85 Prelude Master cylinder is the same as an '89 Integra master cylinder. It's implied that the Prelude MC is a bolt in.
I'm in the middle of the swap right now and hope to be back on the road this weekend once my special order bolts from Acura show up.
An '85 Prelude Master cylinder is the same as an '89 Integra master cylinder. It's implied that the Prelude MC is a bolt in.
I'm in the middle of the swap right now and hope to be back on the road this weekend once my special order bolts from Acura show up.
#12
Posted 12 November 2003 - 10:23 PM
QUOTE
Don't do it. The rear disks will slow your car down. The Aluminum HF drums is a better option:
lighter weight, less rotational mass and unsprung weight
lighter weight, less rotational mass and unsprung weight
I can hardly imagine them slowing u down by much. Maybe 1/100ths of a second in the 1/4 mile??? lol
Edited by CRXdan, 12 November 2003 - 10:24 PM.
90 crx si
13.17@113 street tires low boost
86 samurai g16 turbo
13.17@113 street tires low boost
86 samurai g16 turbo
#13
Posted 13 November 2003 - 01:37 AM
i have the aluminum HF Drums for sale if anyones interested... pm me... i wrecked my CRX and am parting basicly the whole thing out... front end damage so no front end body parts, hit me up.
#14
Posted 13 November 2003 - 03:09 AM
I prefer the simplicity of Disks over drums, and as Dan-O said, they have a lot more sex-appeal too! That and for a race application they are far easier to maintain and change, no clips, springs, and washers to screw around with, and no adjustment either, just drop in your pads, pump the brakes a couple of times, and you are good to go.
That is slightly over-simplified, but still 100x easier than drums.....
Cheers,
Mark
That is slightly over-simplified, but still 100x easier than drums.....
Cheers,
Mark
#15
Posted 13 November 2003 - 06:46 AM
QUOTE (Rampage @ Nov 13 2003, 03:09 AM)
That is slightly over-simplified.....
But quite accurate!
Edited by Dan-O, 13 November 2003 - 07:02 AM.