78 replies to this topic

[zakats]

A whole jet kit isn't relatively expensive, might as well go that route IMO.

[spuker1]

Righto, I've finished refurbishing my carbs so they are nice and shiny again They seem to work all good mechanically too after I gave them a brief strip down and clean. They were quite tatty on the outside with mismatched screws and gunk and grime all over but it's internals are as good and mint as new. The bike they came from was old but it didn't have many miles on so I suppose they are in good working order.

here's how they look like:



Now I just have to tap in for my wideband sensor, get some silicon couplers, get fuel pressure regulator that should be all sorted first thing next month. Only problem is that I need a manifold for it all and I still don't know if I should look for a stock one and chop it up to fit or should I have custom one made up from scratch...

So there is some progress... better slow progress then no progress right?

EDIT: Is there any other (newer) Honda engine that's a bit more popular and easier to come by then my EV2 that has an intake manifold that could be made to fit my 86 1.3's head?

Edited by spuker1, 10 June 2013 - 09:50 AM.

[spuker1]

Ok, the update:

I've got a spare manifold now (big thanks to splitty456), I've got my fuel pressure regulator (that I probably don't even need because stock fuel pump regulates itself), I've got all the hoses, brackets, i've got the carbs refurbed..... It's time to put it all together!!!!



I will post some more pics soon

Edited by spuker1, 10 July 2013 - 05:14 PM.

[anjin]

Try this site. Lot of how to information. 

 

http://www.classicfo...LF166.bike_.pdf

 

Started looking when I found a set of R1 carbs in a car I bought.

[spuker1]

Thanks!!

[spuker1]

Ok, everything smoothed and roughly mated together... now it's just getting it on and getting it work!

[CRXer87hf]

Interesting.  How do you plan on supporting the carbs in the engine bay?

[spuker1]

Ok guys! The game is on!!!


 

Interesting.  How do you plan on supporting the carbs in the engine bay?

It doesn't really need any support, it's very stiff. I was swinging and rocking it for good five minutes and it wouldn't even move. I will look into that just in case, probably will make up a custom bracket and mount it where the stock filter box is mounted which is down low to the engine block.

Edited by spuker1, 12 July 2013 - 03:33 PM.

[spuker1]

before:



during:



last photo i've taken today before it went too dark:




Problems so far? Obviously, the runners are a bit long and it's a really, really tight fit. Also no idea how to connect accelerator and choke lines. Still have to find away to tap into manifold for vacuum for the distributor. Other then that I'm quite positive and happy about the progress

Edited by spuker1, 12 July 2013 - 03:46 PM.

[spuker1]

I've also got couple of questions:

A. what is this sensor for? i have to leave it off obviously:



B. what is this pipe for? it goes from the gasket/spacer thingy between stock manifold and stock carb to a mysterious padded box under the manifold:






 

Edited by spuker1, 12 July 2013 - 03:40 PM.

[Splitty456]

god knows what that sensor is for... possible air intake temp? just leave it unplugged, i'm sure no harm will come because of it...

 

the pipe from te padded box is the crank case breather, just leave it to vent to air, or put a tiny filter on it if you care for the environment/dont want your engine bay covered in oil vapours

 

the throttle cable should be pretty easy, just use the stock cable mounts on the carbs? honda cables fit in bike carb throttle wheels, you just might need to file the ends down abit.

 

again the choke should be pretty easy, unless the cable is too short (which i think it might be..)

Edited by Splitty456, 12 July 2013 - 06:17 PM.

[spuker1]

I think that sensor might be a thingy for the choke light to come on... I don't think it's entirely necessary either way.

About that pipe that you said it's a crank case breather - are you sure? it looks like those water pipes that go from water pump to the intake manifold and back to the head, it looks like there would be coolant running through it, although nothing came out of it when I disconnected it where she absolutely wept herself when I disconnected those water lines for heating the manifold or whatever they do.

Regarding cables: the cable itself both for accelerator and choke is actually too long but that outer cable that the line goes through is a bit short and also this bolt at the end of choke cable is too long making it impossible to fit it to the current mounting point... accelerator should be fine though if theres a way to shorten the cable in some way. The only thing is I don't want to modify stock cable mounting bolts and nuts in case I decide to go back to stock, I don't have spares for that. Oh and yea, cables fit into throttle wheels no problem, no filing needed.

[spuker1]

Is there anything I would have to do prior to starting it for the first time? I don't want it to turn over completely dry for couple of times, How can I fill the carbs with fuel? Also what setting should I set my fuel pressure reg to? I know that the fuel pump is self regulating... should I just have it all the way open for now?

Cheers,

Tom

[spuker1]

Ok,

So I called splitty456 about it and I did what he said which was, take the ignition off and turn her over until the gauge shows some pressure and then pop the ignition back on and fire her up. The thing is the fuel pressure gauge hasn't show any pressure at all. There's fuel in the hose going to the regulator, not sure about the one going out of it, the car doesn't fire at all. The fuel pressure regulator is wide open so it should run on whatever pressure the pump is running... 

Any sugestions?

[jdmreddy]

Just a suggestion but,

 

i would grab a small tank from a pushmower or something and ziptie it to your hood with a temporary fuel line going strait to the carb inlets this will allow the carbs to run as they would have on gravity and do your testing from there

 

Also i'd pull off those filters and try hitting it with starting fluid to make sure u are getting spark just in case u arent

 

i'd also have a good battery handy bc it will require lots of cranking to get it to fire for the 1st time haha

 

and adjust the screw settings by ear to get a good idle then they will need synchronized to properly tune the a/f ratio

 

just my experience with swapping things around on bikes

 

good luck! and glad your trying this it will be sweet once u get it going