45 replies to this topic

[monkeey]

Kewl, wouldnt plugging the float vent mess with the carb? I thought they were ment to vent for a reason.

Theres gotta be an online manual for the 32/36 no?

i was talking to the guy at redline and supposedly they lost a lot of info in a database crash a few years ago, so if you go to the redline site, info is splotchy at best, i am sending him all my pics of my swap so they can update their printed instruction they send out with the kit cause there was some mis info

in the printed instructions i got with the weber kit, there is a diagram that shows the float vent with a nipple on it and under it , it sez optional, so it should be fine with out it. i didnt look to hard when i was messing with the float but it looked like there was also an internal vent that went to the venturis (sp?)

ill look in the book again after work

[kaymo]

monkeey you should be right about the internal vent to the venturis. the factory carb has the same, capping off the external vent when devac'ed is good because if the bowl overflows, it dumps into the carb instead of directly into the alternator!!

[chedda_j]

Looks like im going to be plugging it off then eh? I think the only other thing to do would to be to hook it up to your charcoal canister. Might as well remove it to clean up under the hood. I got it intsalled today. I havent turned the car over yet because i need a new coolant line from the water pump before everything is said and done. Oh and im going to make a little aluminum plate that hooks up to the back of the intake manifold for the return spring.

Thanks for the help so far.

[kaymo]

looks freakin sweet! i love how it almost looks anonymous with no badges. like an engine in a gta car! very clean! how does it run???

[chedda_j]

looks freakin sweet! i love how it almost looks anonymous with no badges. like an engine in a gta car! very clean! how does it run???

I havent turned the car over yet because i need a new coolant line from the water pump before everything is said and done. Oh and im going to make a little aluminum plate that hooks up to the back of the intake manifold for the return spring.

Im really excited but i have a feeling that im going to have to do some tuning.

[monkeey]

Im really excited but i have a feeling that im going to have to do some tuning.

oh yes!

per instructions i got with the kit , ( with the choke disengaged)
idle speed screw should not be IN more then 1.5 turns after it lightly touches the throttle cam
the mixture screw between 2 and 1.25 turns out ( with the idle speed screw no more then 1 1/2 turns in )

my settings from yesterday ( 500feet above sea level ) (engine warmed up , choke disengaged )
idle speed screw : 1 turn in
mixture screw : 2.5-2.75 turns out ( quiet and smooth ) idled at about 850-900 with nothing on, 700ish with headlights+heater fan as per the sticker on the hood

my kit should have been jetted for our cars so i asked the dude at weber why i am out of the 2 turns out max on the mixture screw and he replied

Keep this in mind the engine never lies. It needs what it needs and tells you through the settings. if it's 2 1/2 that's what it is.

so ill see how this works out for now, i will get a jet pack if i need too but i think this will work


awesome to see that intake manifold go to good use ! looks slick!

[EuphoricBlue]

the vac line goes to the bottom port on the dizzy, the brass plug to the left of the vac port is for egr vac

On the stock setup the dizy feeds from manifold vacuum, I don't see why it should be any different on a Weber. Personally, I'd plug this and run advance off the manifold.
(It looks like that port might draw its vacuum from below everything else, then it will also see manifold vacuum, so it would be the same... but I'd still take vacuum from the stock spot since there is a choice.)

[chedda_j]

As long as its manifold pressure then were fine. On the edelbrock that I used to run on my v8, there were two. One for full vac, one for vac when the throttle was open. I still have to mod my dizzy.

[chedda_j]

Still pluggin away, just need one more thing, a rad hose and i can start it up.

Heres my secondary throttle spring:

[monkeey]

man , that makes me too embarrassed to show how i rigged up my spring!

looks great though!





a little back tracking , but were you ever planning on trying to make the cdm manifold work with the weber ?

Edited by monkeey, 15 March 2011 - 08:04 PM.

[chedda_j]

oh theres no doubt that it would work with the cdn manfold, you just need a different addapter. The reason i used the usdm mani was because i have the CVCC head and its kinda pointless to have cvcc and not use it lol. So like i said, you can mount it to the cdn manfold, you would just need to modify the usdm adapter plate by drilling four new holes that match the cdn intake manifold. It would be a very simple operation.

[monkeey]

It would be a very simple operation.

..... maybe for you

i keep forgetting you dont have a cdm head without the cvcc.
there is a 87 crx si at the junker i want to snag the head off of to use with my cdm intake, so ill have to figure it out at some point.

[chedda_j]

So i started the car today, runs really good, the big issue i have is idle speed. I have to do some reading about what to adjust. I knocked down the throttle adjuster all the way down, and it still idles at 1500 rpms without the choke even on. So obviously im having a problem here. I went ahead and screwed the mixture screw in because it seems to be way out, i screwed it all the way in and then i screwed it out to 1.5 turns, still idles about 1200 when full warm. I think that either the choke is either stuck a tiny bit open or my fuel pressure is too high hence because i havent tested it yet, but i dont know if that really effects idle speed. The car itself seems to run really really good, it never left the parking lot but just idle to WOT reving the engine went really well. It would go all the way to 6500 without any hesitation from mashing the pedal. I cant wait to see whats going to happen when its under load woot woot.

Oh and electric choke question, hooking up a wire directly to the choke from a toggle will open the choke all the way to say...2500 rpms correct? The problem i have is my car didnt come with any sort of a electric choke, and obviously i want to get rid of my manual choke. The only other way i can think of doing something like this is, is to get a reostat (sp?) and mount it in the car on the dash so i can turn the resistance up and down for the choke. Now i ask you this, does the choke work off voltage or amperage? or resistance? In that sence can you give me any kind of an idea to make the electric choke work without any sort of a stock choke wire?

SHED SOME LIGHT CARB GURUS!!

[Mark L]

I am not sure if you have seen this, but here is a document on setting the idle.
Weber Idle setting

If you are having a high idle, I would triple check you do not have a vacuum leak. Are you sure everything is capped off?

If I remember correctly, the way the electric choke works is 12 volts heats up a bimetal strip which opens up the choke after a period of time.
To set it up loosen up the choke adjustment and turn it till the choke plate is closed about half way. connect it to 12 volt and after a period of time the choke should open. You might have to hit the gas once to release the choke plate. You will need to play with this setting to get a proper warmup.

Good luck

Mark

[chedda_j]

OH duh I undestand. I doubt that its a vaccum leak because car doesnt lope, and because the car sits and idles at 1500 rpms no matter how hot the car is lol. So what im guessing what it is, is that the choke is set to 1500 rpms and i have to hook it up to a power supply, frickin dumby me.