7 replies to this topic

[andrew.rios94]

The pedal goes to the floor with little resistance. I've bled them countless times (FL,RR,FR,RL)

Everything I've done has had little or no difference

 

No leaks.

Fresh pads and rotors

Adjusted the drums.

I saw that the hoses would expand a bit and they were starting to crack so I replaced them.

So from there I just assumed the master was bad so I replaced that (bled it off the car and some more on the car before I connected the lines back. Little or no change so the master was probably fine.

I am confident that there is no air in the system.

 

So I searched the forums and saw that it could be the booster. But I always thought a bad booster meant a hard pedal?

Is there anything I can do to confirm this? I want to be sure before I buy a new booster.

 

 

 

 

And unrelated, I need a Sanden bracket and hoses, if anyone can help out.

Edited by andrew.rios94, 24 April 2014 - 09:33 PM.

[PowerWheels86]

your bleeding procedure is all messed up... it's always the furthest lines from the master cylinder first... so it should be Rear right, rear left, front right, front left...

 

also the brake booster doesn't always make the pedal hard... when mine went out it simply didn't allow the pedal to retract... so it always stayed down... i hate anything brake related, i've actually converted both of my civics to boosterless setups so it's one less headache to deal with... the boosterless setup is only slightly harder but not by very much... and i've got discs all around... stainless lines, and i purchased the boosterless plate from downstarinc.com they even tell you which master cylinder to purchase and the hardest part of that install is actually just having the clevis threaded to fit the MC..

[PuddleSkipper]

Probably your MC. I had one go out on me while driving, nearly hit the car in front of me. There was pedal pressure, and then there wasn't. Not sure what was wrong with it. I had bought it a year before at Schucks and it had a Limited Lifetime warranty. So I replaced it and that solved the issue. You have to watch it with the Lifetime warranty stuff, the axles from Schucks I had to replace every 6 months, and that is EACH SIDE. So sometimes Lifetime warranty = Lifetime of constant unnecessary replacement. I went and bought some brand new CV axles with out a warranty from Baxters and each one has lasted 3 yrs, worth the price difference.

[squareback]

your bleeding procedure is all messed up... it's always the furthest lines from the master cylinder first... so it should be Rear right, rear left, front right, front left...

For what it's worth, the bleeding order he mentioned is the way it's listed in the manual. It's also the order I've always used and has never failed to work. So I doubt if bleeding is the issue.

I agree that I think it could be the master cylinder. If it's new, you should be able to replace it under warranty.

[Maine_Honda_Racer]

Master cylinder is bad. Would bet your booster is full of fluid.

[Mrfixit]

make sure you bleed the master cylinder before you install it. It took me three tries to get it right.

[GeezRX]

Since you say you have new rotors installed I assume that you had the calipers off? Heard this on NPR "Click & Clack" today...guy does a brake job and puts calipers back on but accidentally switches right side for left and vice versa (which puts the bleed screws at the bottom of the calipers instead of the top as they should be) goes through several master cylinders, etc., etc., trying to figure out the problem with having no pedal...until someone points out this caliper reversal issue...he rights this wrong, re-bleeds system and is good to go...possibly yours is the same problem?

 

Skip

[andrew.rios94]

Update: I noticed there was a bit of moisture in the brake cylinders so I replaced them. Didn't work. It's still leaking in air. It was probably happening before , but I would close the line before bubbles would come back.

So either I got  pair of bad cylinders or it's leaking in air from somewhere else?