151 replies to this topic

[CRXer87hf]

...and the beat up old oil pan gets the same treatment, this time with standard Duplicolor Engine enamel (shown in primer).  

 

 

 

The valve cover is next on the list.  I was debating on whether to do it in red, or black like it was from the factory.  Any preferences? 

[CRXer87hf]

Progress:

 

Finally got in the last piece I was waiting for for the engine repairs.  Thank you Mrfixit for the timing belt covers! After taking off the old covers, I realized that the covers were the only thing keeping the timing belt from walking off the gears.  See for yourself what the old ones looked like, compared with the newer ones.  Yikes.

 

 

I was also able to finish painting the DC Sports header...

 

 

 

I think it came out alright for the condition it was in when I took it off the car.

 

I was also able to replace the tensioner pully, water pump, timing belt, and alternator belt while I had the covers off.  Getting close to getting this thing running again.  Next, it's on to the body repair and suspension.  

 

[CRXer87hf]

Progress:

 

Finished up setting the timing and realized I hadn't prepped the valve cover.  It was pealing paint and looked pretty bad, so I decided to strip the paint and paint it black like it looked from the factory.  I used a chisel and chipped most of the paint off ( this worked far better than I anticipated).  Then I took a wire brush to the valve cover to prep it for paint, but after seeing how cool it looked after the wire brush, I decided to leave it that way for now.  What do you think?

 

Before:

 

 

After:

 

 

[1stgenhybridCR-X]

i would say leave the valve cover as is looks clean after the brushing, and great choice on keeping the car, a red n grey si in that year is real nice and rare.

[CRXfanatic]

Nice work!

[CRXer87hf]

Thanks guys! 

 

i would say leave the valve cover as is looks clean after the brushing, and great choice on keeping the car, a red n grey si in that year is real nice and rare.

 

I am definitely going to keep the factory paint scheme.  I love the red/grey!  I didn't realize it was rare though, thanks for the heads up.

 

Progress:

 

I finished painting the oil pan.  Didn't come out as expected for some reason.  I don't know if I got a bad can of paint, but after the first 3 coats, I wasn't able to get it to level.  It would go on the metal looking like a matte paint.  I thought it was because it needed more sanding, but after another hour of sanding, it still came out looking like a matte finish.  It may have been the humidity here, it's been 100% for a long time.  Oh well, as long as it repels dirt and doesn't flake, I'm happy.  It's a beat up old pan anyway.

 

[jweber89]

Looks like you could use some '85 Si wheels to go with that project... 

[CRXer87hf]

Looks like you could use some '85 Si wheels to go with that project... 

 

Funny you mention that, I've been eyeing your polished wheels for a while now.  I already have two sets of wheels and tires for this car so it would definitely be an extra expense.  I travel to Nashville once or twice a year, if I happen to be in town I'll contact you and check them out!

[CRXer87hf]

The last part I've been waiting for finally came today... 

 

 

The steel panhard bar brace from Chedda!  Now I can start on the rear suspension!  

[CRXer87hf]

This weekend's progress:

 

Installed:

Front shocks, LCAs, Rod ends, Sway bar, Oil pan, Header, Axles...

 

 

Gunked the spindles and brake parts...

 

 

 

 

Gosh, it looks so much better than when I first stuck my head under the car.  Finally the hard work is starting to pay off.

[CRXer87hf]

Progress: 

 

While putting the front suspension back together, I forgot I hadn't cleaned my brake calipers, which were disgusting, and I was facing an issue.  I couldn't roll the car out to wash them outside of my garage, and I didn't want to get my work area soaked with grease, cleaner and water.  So I thought of a neat way to clean them in the garage... a 1 gallon zip-lock bag.  Yeah I know it sounds simple, but it works great.

 

 

First, I put the caliper in the bag and hosed it in gunk cleaner.  The nice thing about the bag is, whatever over-spray you have stays in the bottom of the bag which you can pour back over the caliper several times.

 

 

Then I got a wire brush and brushed down the caliper.  The bag keeps the spray from the brush from covering everything, including myself.  Another plus.

 

 

Then I got a water bottle and rinsed the caliper.  Again, the bag keeps the water inside, so you can close the open end of the bag with your hand and shake it around.  

 

 

The results!  A clean caliper in a matter of minutes, and a dry garage.

 

 

Anyway, After the caliper cleaning, I finished up with the brakes, and the wheels were ready to go on!

 

 

Only after putting the wheels on, and rolled her outside did I realize how low the front was after adjustments.  Looks mean!  I then filled all the fluids and she fired up immediately, with no leaks!  So I've got a runner again, yay! 

 

 

Well, the fun of having a functional car only lasted a few minutes, because it was back in the garage again, to start work on the rear suspension.  

[CRXer87hf]

Progress:.

 

Over the weekend, I decided to tackle the body rust and the panhard bar brace.  First, I sanded down to the metal, every area of rust to prepare for patching.  I'm not going to be welding in any patches at this point because most of the holes are small enough to fill in, IMO.  Anyone have any preference for support material when applying bondo (ex. wire mesh, fiberglass tape etc.)?  Here is a view of the trunk area, where most of the holes are.

 

 

Now for the panhard bar brace, I have a couple questions for chedda, and those of you who have done this install before.  This first issue I came across was the hooks for the gas tank supports.  They slide into holes on the frame, exactly where the panhard bar brace covers.  My question for that issue is, did drilling holes for the gas tank hook create a structural issue for the brace, and were there any clearance issues with getting the hooks to slide into the frame after install?  The other issue is the surface of the factory panhard bar "attachment arm" (certainly not the technical term) is not flat, which causes issues for welding, and bolting the brace down.  Please advise.  Also, regarding bolts, is there ideal locations for the bolts, and what is a good diameter bolt to use?  Thanks!  Here's the view of the brace in place...

 

[chedda_j]

The idea for the steel brace is to be welded. The best way to do so is to just simply drill 3/16 holes along the top edge where it contacts the frame rail, and every point of contact on the mount it self. Mark all said holes with felt, including the one for the gas tank hanger, and drill as required. The gastank hole is not predrilled because of varying models. The gastank strap hole can be a 1/2 hole, or smaller, just enough to get the hanger in..Once you have the mount in place with all the holes drilled, clean the surface behind with a little emery cloth to bring it down to metal. Buy a can of weld thru primer, spray areas with it, then spot weld all the holes up. You can also weld the edges if your very careful.

[CRXer87hf]

I see, well, I have a 90amp MIG welder that I've never used before, but there's always a first time!  I'm not sure how confident I am welding seams yet, but the spot welding part I can handle.  Thanks for the help! 

[CRXer87hf]

Progress:

 

Didn't get a whole lot done this weekend, but I was able to finished locating, sanding, and prepping all the remaining rust spots on the body.  I was reluctant to take the bumper off just because I just want to get this build over with, but I was glad I did because I found more rust that needed to be dealt with.  I also had to order the weld-thru primer because no one around here carries it.  So while I wait for that, the next steps are to start patching wholes and filling in the rusted areas.  Here is how she stands...

 

 

I also found a great replacement for the horrible plastic push-type retainer screws that are used to secure the plastic rocker panels, among other things.  I found them on ClipsAndFasteners.com.  They are replacement parts for Honda's, but I think they are specific to later model vehicles, but they work great.  The Phillips style head is thicker, and deeper, thus making it much easier to remove later without stripping the head out.  I definitely recommend them, and they are only $9 for a box of 25.  

 

The part description:

Item Code: A14696

Details: Push-Type Retainer 15mm Hd Dia. 11mm Length