238 replies to this topic

[anjin]

I have bounced an engine off the firewall in a gen 1 crx. Only about 35 mph impact on an electric light pole, and it was a pole designed to fall over; but yes, enough distortion to make the shell non-viable in a track environment. (as in, the brake fails at 190 kph and there is a tire wall coming up - do I trust the repaired shell.  No)

 

Please keep posting Chedda - I enjoy seeing what you come up with.

[enoch723]

I am with chedda. Our cars are NOT meant to take a hit at all. I tapped a curb with the back tire going sideways on ice. Maybe going 15 and it bent the whole frame and I had to replace the whole rear axle(replaced with g1teg axle)

Again, I have seen chedda's car after hitting a moose awhile back and it wasnt pretty. He is lucky to be alive let alone still doing what he does for our cars. Any kind of strength for our cars is needed, even just to hold them together while they go down the road.

 

An idea to look into though, which is something euopean cars are already doing and we are starting to use in our cars in america. But everyone thinks of making the car stronger so there is less chances of everything smashing in on you. But if you think of hitting sand with your hand to try and get through it, hitting it flat with your fist doesnt do much but if you smack it with an open hand sand will fly around and it doesnt hurt so much. Idea is that you want the car to crush and absorb the impact in as many areas as you can rather then trying to not crush at all.

I think what chedda did is great. It was send the shock around the car instead of straight through.

 

 

Sorry for such a long writting

[pdrift]

Hey chedda.. I really enjoy reading your posts and looking at the pictures you post. Please don't stop. I really like your front bumper design. Do you plan on making one for the rear? My son has an 84 hatch and his rear bumper support is totally rusted out. I want to make something like this for the back.

Edited by pdrift, 13 September 2014 - 03:05 PM.

[chedda_j]

Started to work on the roll cage now. Getting away from working under the hood for a lil bit while I figure out the intake manifold situation. I also have the bends for my exhaust here so I will be working on that soon also. The rear is a simple X beam style. It will likely get a few gussets. I also have to do the bottom pockets for mounting. The rest of the materials to do the door runners, a pillars and cross beams will be shortly. 

 

[anjin]

Nice work as usual.  You doing a cross brace in the hoop behind the driver? (Mandatory in Australia - that's why I ask).  Are you mounting race harness belts to the horizontal bar, or anchoring them further back and feeding them in over that bar? (Again, there are some strictish guidelines in Australia about lead angles and heights of the belts etc in the Australian rules.) The local rules made for some interesting design considerations and options, and I'm interested in what you are required to have and choose to add.

[chedda_j]

I will be putting a base bar on the hoop and another x brace between the two. Mines more just so I dont die lol.

[anjin]

Good to hear.  Thats essentially what the Australian peak motor sports body aims for - safe roll cages.  They produce an interesting set of design requirements and options, including weld and join specs, bold sizes and stregnths, minimum tube sizes and wall thicknesses, etc. 

 

A base bar and X should see you well covered.

 

I'm going to do a similar top radiator section as you on my current project - the previous owners were going to do a B16 conversion and cut that section to make access easier.  Its a weak as section now, and rather than try to repair it a replacement is called for.

[chedda_j]

Did a chunk of the x bar today. Need more materials before I can continue.

[enoch723]

gunna go along the floorboard and then from the top down along the door to kind of stop the side if you end up rolling? You know how once the car loses traction that ass end likes to come out

[chedda_j]

I will be tying the door rails into an a pillar bar, dash bar, roof x, and another bar similar to the one above to finish it off. Lots left to go.

[chedda_j]

As seen here http://www.redpepper...topic=57852&hl= I have came up with a set of rear camber and toe plates that allow you to set your camber at a set degree then rotate the part to change toe. There are a couple different uses for these, including fixing toe when lowering, bringing the tires in when you go disc brakes, bringing the tires in for show, and bringing the tires in for racing. Hoosiers run really well at 3 degrees. Here are some shots. This requires the use of a second drivers side spindle on the passenger side. Comes with all the hardware needed ect. 

 

 

 

 

 

[Dirtcircle86]

Holy shit thats awesome!  I've been using stacks of hand cut .040 shims that seem to be compressing and falling out under the stresses of dirt racing......  How much $?

[chedda_j]

www.cheddasauto.com. They are 140 a set shipped.

[Dirtcircle86]

My bad.. I saw that in another thread after asking.