105 replies to this topic

[Stuckey85si]

No problem, I have repaired the exact spots your are cutting out in my car. If I need to bring some sheet metal let me know too.

Joseph

[Richardcoto452th]

I regret using aircraft stripper.. My PGMFi logo on the mani erased when I accidentally spilled it there
That repair shouldn't be all too bad it looks like a easy repair, yeah you should be worried when the repair is overhead, or not enough sheet metal and aluminum. Welding is a craft learned through years, just make sure you prep it real good afterwards and paint it.

[niccer]

I had the stuff in the spray can and also covered the sticker with tape before applying, so I didn't have any problems with mine.  

 

Joeseph, I'll be working on the car tomorrow, don't know what you'll be up to.  The bottom end should all be apart and ready to take to the machine shop by the start of next week.  I cut out the two rust spots in the floor today and have one piece of metal to cover one of the two sides but will need more.  I guess I'll see if I can come up with a plan for the rear spot where the panhard bar mount is.  I really think taking care of the rust, protecting it all and welding a plate over the top will be fine.  

[niccer]

Can't believe it's almost been 7 weeks since my last update!

 

I dropped the block, head and flywheel off at the machine shop today.  Two exhaust studs are broken off inside the head and they charge $35 per stud to extract.  I don't feel like dropping $70 to have them removed, but also don't have good luck with removing broken bolts/studs.  You guys have any tips if I try it myself? 

 

I should be ordering a clutch, water pump, head gasket, fuel pump and other fun things in the next week.  I've also been cleaning and painting parts in preparation for reassembly. 

 

And to prove that I have actually done something; before running them over to the shop today.

 

[niccer]

Decided to let the machine shop tackle removing and replacing the two broken studs.  The helping hand in decision making came from the free bag of dog food I received yesterday, which should have been $60 (Buy 12 get 1 free).  That paid for most of the extraction, so I figured "why not". 

 

I was going to take the transmission apart to check the bearings, gears and all that jazz, but have had a hell of a time getting the casing apart.  I then thought to myself, even if things aren't optimal, I'm not going to buy new syncros or bearings so there's really no point in tearing it apart.  My plan is to put some cheap oil in it off the bat, drive around for a few miles then bring it in to drain and refill with some nice stuff.  My thinking is that any gunk or debris that are in there will drain out. 

[Stuckey85si]

Good call on the transmission, I would run a few bouts of 10w-30 through it since it has been sitting. As long as the fluid comes out clean after x miles I would say your good to go. Then its time to throw some GM Modified Syncromesh in it and ride.

That GM fluid is amazing in these transmissions.

[niccer]

Finally the start of some real progress.  Picked up the head, block, pistons/con. rods and flywheel from the machine shop today.  FYI, contrary to what I've read on the web, the D16A6/Z6/etc... torque plate bolted right up to the D15A3 block.  Talking to Quinn last weekend about the possibility and that makes it sound like the Z6 head could be mated to the D15A3 block and would open up a whole new world of tuning, along with the possibility of more airflow, not to mention aftermarket support.  Anyway, that's a whole different topic all together that I'm sure's been covered here before.  

 

 

Started working on the block a little tonight.  Plastigaged the mains and they're spot on; on the loose end of the factory spec.  Dirtcircles, if you're reading this, can you instruct me on how to shim my oil pump to bump up the pressure?  

 

 

 

 

 

Will be getting to the rod bearings tomorrow and hopefully button the bottom end up fully.  Regarding the head, I need to clean a lot of the carbon off the valves; anyone have any tips there?  I was planning on taking a wire brush and some brake clean, but I'm open to suggestions.  

 

Also got around to making some mounting brackets for the Caravan Swaybar and got it mounted up.  Might need some adjusting once I put the car on the ground, but I'm happy with how everything lined up for now.  Also had a friend come over to weld up the spots in the floor that I had to cut out.  

 

 

 

 

 

[Dirtcircle86]

My bad Niccer.  I put about 60 hours into my car last week (took vacation to do it) and rarely checked on here.  I didn't want to see any more cars.....  I'm gonna call mine the Integ-Rex from now on.  there is very little CRX left of it. 

 

I can describe (but not very well) shimming the pump in terms of D16A1.  I think the D15/EW/A3 is a tad different.  The A1 has a large screw in plug on the bottom of the pump that looks like it is screwed into a tube (sorta) under it is a heavy spring and ultimately a plunger.  I can't remember but I think the D15's have a cotter pin holding the plug in??   Anyway, the back of the A1 plunger plug has a "button" that fits into the spring so I just found some (three) washers that fit the button pretty well.  Bad thing was, the OD of the washers was way too big so I "milled" them down by running a bolt throught them and chucking it up in a drill.  I then spun them against a file (bench grinder would have been faster) until they fit the spring tube.  They have a large ID but small OD like a lock washer if that makes sense, but I obviously wanted them flat.  Anyway, installing them under the spring will increase the relief pressure and thus increase the overall pressure. 

 

I used a .160 shim (three washers that happened to be what I wanted) but it was a stab in the dark.  I had others tell me to shoot for 70 PSI at 3,000 and I'm a little over that.  With cold 10/30 it will easily hit 95 PSI....  but when it is HOT after a race, it still has 20 PSI at idle.  I'd guess in race conditions at 6,500 it's running in the 85 PSI range which the motor seems to like (staying together).  There is probably a downside (blowing up a filter?) to running such high oil pressure but I havn't found it yet...  I got there accidentally and was pretty worried the first time I fired it but all is well.  You might want to go a little thinner but I'm sure it is engine dependant (bearing clearance).  Mine were all at .002 or a hair tighter on cheap bearings. 

 

I've got 130 track miles on the 10/30 Castrol in it and it's getting a little dark.  I wanted to change it at 100 but didn't have time after geting the front together.  The paint seriously wasn't dry Friday night at the track.  Point is, I'm sure the oil is starting to break down and I'm still getting 18 PSI at idle after 15 laps.  can't complain too much. 

 

Hope that helps. 

[niccer]

I did take a look on youtube and saw someone do exactly what you said to their pump.  Thinking about it more, and I'm not sure if I'll go this route at the moment since I don't have an oil pressure gauge.  I'll be checking the tolerances on the pump today or tomorrow; if it's within spec I'll probably just slap it on and run it like that.  If it seems a little out, I might go with a small spacer and hope for the best.  Adding an oil pressure gauge is high on the priority list after I get the car running. 

 

Thanks! 

[Dirtcircle86]

I picked up a 3 gauge set from Summit (oil/water/volts) for like $35. 

[Quinn]

Your pistons are in wrong!!!! ha ha ha 

[niccer]

Measured the tolerances on the oil pump last night and it's well within spec.  Decided to not mess with the shim at this moment in time.  Hoping to get the oil pump assembly, rear main seal assembly and oil pan fitted tonight at least.  Would love to get cracking on fitting the valves in the head and get it mounted by the end of the week, but I need to swing by the dealer for the two dowel pins that go in the top of the block. 

 

 

Your pistons are in wrong!!!! ha ha ha 

 

Yoar pistons are in wrong! 

[niccer]

Buttoned the rotating assembly up last night and installed the new waterpump (not pictured).  Heading to the dealer to pick up the dowel pins in a bit and also picking up a misc screw and bolt I've managed to loose.  Also just ordered an Exedy OEM replacement clutch/PP and a brake booster.  There's only a handful of things I still need to buy and can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel!

 

[niccer]

Damn. 

 

Damn damn damn damn.  

 

 

 

Was going to put the head back together tonight but the first valve I prep to install ends up being bent.  Didn't bother to check the intake valves too, but it looks like I'll be sending the head back to the machine shop for new guides after all.  Might aswell have them do the seat too while they're at it.  Looks like the parts stores carry single valves, so that's good at least.  

 

Just when I was gaining some momentum to get this thing wrapped up.  

[Dirtcircle86]

Looking good!  I think for a daily, stock oil pressure is dandy.  If you're gonna bang on it, any additional oil pressure is just insurance.  These pumps have a pretty amazing volume.  The bearings are basically hydraulic, but leak badly, so more is better i'd think.  I probably wouldn't recomend the .160 I did but I'll probably never put a pump in without a little shim (.60 to .80) since it worked so well.  This winter I'll check the bearings and see how they fared.