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Project 85 Si-ish


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#1
Dear_Boss

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85’ CRX Si-ish Build Thread

 

This was written about a year and a half after starting the project… again. So I apologize if I get lost in the story, forget things or write them out of order. Hopefully the pictures tell most of the story.

 

Background on me: My interest in cars started young because my dad owns an auto body shop. I spent alot of my time down there either working on something or making a mess when i was younger. After high school i actually started working there full time and learned alot as my interests grew. At some point i decided to go back to school for mechanical engineering which i did complete. I now work for a company that makes EGR and Flow control valves for Heavy duty truck applications as well as solenoids and other things for military/aerospace. Specifically, I work as a product development/test engineer so i spend a lot of my time running dynos, vibration testing and designing validation test plans among other types of testing and design.

 

Background on the car:

I got the car back in like 99’ when an elderly women hit something with it or got hit in the drivers door and quarter panel. My dad towed it in and the lady did not want to fix it so we offered her some money and she took it.

 

1985 Honda CRX HF

Miles: 35k roughly

Color: White

Interior: Blue

Engine: D15A1

 

The car was damaged enough in the left side that we purchased a donor car from a junk yard that was an 86 HF, red in color, to steal parts off of. At that time i was about 12 years old and had already spent a good amount of time at the shop so i started literally removing everything. By the age of 15 or so i had cut the quarter panel off the donor and had it welded on to the 85, the welds don't look great since it was my first panel graft but its solid. I rebuilt the carb, did some other general mechanic work, did a bunch of body work and then also started to paint the door jams and underside of the hatch and doors. At this time i was busily looking for parts and aftermarket things which were hard to find even back in the early 2000’s which probably led to my lack of interest by the time i graduated high school. Needless to say while my interests changed the car went into long term storage and basically forgotten about for 15 years or so.

 

Fast forward to about a year and a half ago… I've been spending most of my free time on my 59’ Chevrolet Apache restoration with the help of a close friend. While doing this his interest in cars increased greatly to the point where he bought a 2004 (im guessing on the year) BMW M3 with the intent to autocross it. Well since he had that I also wanted to race ha. I remembered i had the CRX and did some research on the feasibility of auto-crossing it. Turns out its not a bad option. I immediately ran to the long term storage location and starting tearing everything out of the container that was in the way. I drug the car out, put it on a flat bed and away i went to bring it home.

 

Thankfully i have a good size heated pole barn at my house that i have all my projects, tools and other things my wife calls garbage in. The car was dropped off and i started cleaning it out and taking inventory. A Lot of the stuff i had taken off years ago was still in the car but i spent a good amount of time searching through storage containers and crawlspaces trying to find where i put stuff years ago. In short i found almost everything and supplemented the rest with donor cars that we had around the shop.

 

Anyways, here is the car as i pulled it out of storage. Time to get to work.

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The first thing i wanted to tackle was replacing the original HF engine with the fuel injected version. We had a silver 87’ Si at the shop from years ago that was in really rough shape. Literally you could see the ground through almost anywhere on the floor but it had a good engine as far as i knew. I pulled the donor from the weeds and brought it to my house where i started to take everything i could  off of it. Pulling the engine/transmission was easy, basically cut everything i didnt need, sawzall’d the core support out of the way and out it came. I removed the harness, the dash, seat belts, basically anything i could possibly use for later if needed. After i got everything out the car left for the scrap yard. There was literally nothing left of it.

 
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Continued Below

 



#2
Dear_Boss

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Continued

 

I noticed that the wiring harness may be my only issue with the engine. It was cut and spliced in a whole bunch of places, likely from being in a junk yard and the ecu was missing. I spent a couple weeks trying to figure out how to make it work but in the end i tossed the idea and decided to go for  custom ecu. The one i chose was megasquirt 2, ill get to that later in the thread but figured i would mention it now since this when i made the wiring discovery.

 

The Si engine has about 85k but i wanted to rebuild it anyways since it sat so long. After pulling all the brackets and accessories i removed the head for a first glimpse at the pistons and cylinder walls. All looked pretty good to me, coulndt feel a ridge and nothing was pitted. The head looked ok with some normal build-up on the valves and everything looked solid. The cam did have a couple small wear thru marks on the lobes so i needed a new cam. The crank and pistons were dirty but looked fine. I finished tearing down the engine and called my local machine chop (Grammar Gates Industries) to get an idea of what it would cost me to hot tank the block and clean everything up. They told me “not much” ha so off to the machine shop. They did the following

  • Cleaned/hot tanked the block

  • Honed the bores

  • Cleaned the gasket material off and decked the block

  • Surfaced the crank

  • Cleaned the pistons/rods

  • Cylinder head leak down 

  • Cleaned/surfaced the head

All for ~$160, Not bad

 

Before Cleaning Pictures
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Had to buy a rebuild kit from Clegg Engine on eBay which had rings, bearings, seals, gaskets, all of the general engine rebuild stuff you would need, $165. Also got a bunch of other things like reman injectors, temperature sensors, oil pressure sensor, coolant hoses, the list goes on. But i believed to have had everything i need at this point to put it back together.


I spent alot of time cleaning the remainder of the grime from the block and heads then moved on to paint. Masked everything off and used some VHT engine paint which came out really well. So far its held up fine to chemicals, cant speak to the durability yet but im sure it will be fine. 


As i started to reassemble i came across a number of things that weren't exactly proper fit but i adjusted as i went along. 

It looks like this engine had different pistons in it  which required a different set of rings. I ended up calling the company and they set me up with a new set of Moly rings made for my pistons so that set me back time wise but glad i realized it prior to installing. After figuring that out everything measured ok according to the Haynes manual and it went together nicely. 


Next the crank went in which was surfaced at the machine shop and looked super nice. Main bearings measured ok and on i went to the piston install. Being that this was my first 4cyl engine rebuild i found out that i did not have a small enough ring compressor to get the pistons in. I ended having to buy a specific compressor for the size which worked awesome and i imagine i will be doing that in the future. The crank down sheet metal style just sucks especially for this small of a piston. All the other engine work i have done in the past has been on small and big block chevys and a couple small block fords so its definitely a little bit of a learning curve.

 
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#3
Dear_Boss

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Continued

 

After the crank and pistons were torqued down and everything moved appropriately i started to work on the head. Like i said prior i did have to buy a new camshaft because the old one started to show some signs of the case hardening on the lobes breaking down. Luckily i did find a factory spec’d NOS camshaft on ebay. Once i got it i tried to place it in and the unground portion interfered with the head itself.

 

(Head/Cam interference image)

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What i found out is that this cam shaft was used for multiple applications being aftermarket and the cast lobes would simple need to be ground down. While i should have probably brought it back to the machine shop to get it ground i instead just went at it with a grinder, came out ok and i haven't seen an issue yet. The machine shop guy did reassure me that it would be fine as long as i didnt hit the lobes, which i did not. Moving on!


Cam shaft in and the head was installed onto the block, no issues there. So far everything has been going relatively well for the rebuild. I moved on to install all the accessories without an issue. 

 
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The first piece of custom work i knew i was going to need was a crank timing wheel and sensor. This is needed when installing my planned megasquirt install. I purchased a 36-1 crank wheel that fits a number of ford 6 cylinders because it was cheap and had bent teeth which is how i would be reading the signal. To mount it, i took my original crank pulley, machined off the small belt groove and added some mounting holes for the trigger wheel. Next i had to make a quick alignment tool that held the keyway and the crank pulley then stepped down to the size of the trigger wheel ID with another keyway. This helps me align the missing tooth with the TDC portion on the crank pulley. Definitely not needed but it made my OCD feel better that i was starting out with the proper alignment of the two components. Also it will help later if i need to R&I it for whatever reason. To hold the crank position sensor, I used the stock AC lower bracket and made an additional aluminum bracket that holds the sensor. From there i can make adjustments where needed and have easy access to it.
 
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Instead of using the stock alternator and voltage regulator i switched to a GM internally regulated version. Its fairly small so it fits in nicely with some custom spacers. The remainder of the new accessories were all stock style and everything went on fine.

The last thing to install onto the engine before the transmission was the intake. I contemplated using a spare b-series intake i had but the adaptation to the D-series head was just a little too much right now without a CNC mill. I cleaned the intake all up and started to plug/remove anything i didnt need. Since the IAC valve was shot and i was installing a custom ECU so i removed it and made a quick block off plate, no issues. The vacuum distribution manifold on the underside of the intake was also removed since i didnt have the vacuum control boxes anymore. I had more than enough vacuum acces ports on the manifold itself. Cleaned the throttle body, installed that then painted the whole thing silver to cover up some of the age. Intake went on and i was ready for the transmission.

 
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(More Painted Intake Images Later)

 

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#4
Dear_Boss

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Continued

 

Transmission got a good cleaning and coat of silver paint before installing onto the engine. I decided not to rebuild the 5 speed transmission that came with the Si engine because im not too familiar with it and it seemed to move freely. I put a new sachs clutch on the engine and a new throwout bearing on the transmission, all OEM spec for now. Not sure if i will need a higher performance clutch or not but i went with OEM for now. Lifted the engine off the stand and installed the transmission. I was a little taken back by the no throwout bearing but it appears to be normal with this engine so i aligned it the best i could and went with it.

 
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The engine was now ready to go in. I had previously taken the HF engine out of the car a while back and set it to the side. That was not super fun but i got it out. Disconnecting the transmission shift linkage sucked for sure. I ended up having to grind the pin off of the universal joint to get it off and planned to rebuild that later.


Prior to putting the engine back in i removed the subframe and steering rack to rebuild it. The steering rack moved super smooth so i just changed the inner and outer tie rods. I used some Moog ones i found of Rockauto which seemed to be well built. The subframe got cleaned, sanded and POR15’d prior to reinstalling. Of course the steering linkage gave me a hassle for about half a day before i got it to go onto the rack and mount nicely but once it was in everything moved freely. Ready for the engine


Up the engine goes and into the car. I had to do quite a bit of maneuvering and jacking to get the engine/transmission in together but it did eventually go in. All of the engine mounts were cleaned and reinforced with urethane for some extra stiffness prior to mounting the engine and they felt good once it was installed. I finally felt liek something was accomplished with the car.

 
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Im sure ive missed some details about the engine install so if anyone has any questions feel free to ask.


Now that the engine was in i could move on to getting fuel and wiring to it.

 

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#5
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The fuel system was still original to the carbureted engine so it needed a rehaul. From what i read online people said i needed to remove the entire system and replace it with the Si system since it was a pressurized system. Well i didnt want to do that mainly because the Si system was in such bad shape and because i knew i could make it better. I removed the HF tank and took out the sending unit. I hacked up the sending unit to be able to weld in my own pickup and return tube. Those were routed to swagelok compression fittings to -8 and -6 male fittings for the fuel lines to run to. From the tank the supply went to a new electric fuel pump rated for way more than i need which i mounted in the left rear wheel well, kinda a pain in the ass but it works. From the fuel pump it went to -6  braided stainless lines running through the car and to the firewall. Once i hit the firewall the supply goes to a holley 12-886 EFI regulator with a return and reference port. That supplies the fuel rail and provides the return path back to the tank. The return line utilizes the original supply for the carburetor since it was big enough. I have not had an issue as of yet for fuel supply or return. I do still have the evap tank plumbed in so it can equalize the system, not sure if ill come up with a different option for that later down the road.

 
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Next comes the wiring and ECU. I purchased the MS2, relay board and labeled wiring from DIYautotune.com. Great site and super helpful customer service. In the beginning i didn't have alot of knowledge on tuning my own ECU and how the thing even works. Im used to carburetors and dealing with large displacement motors when tuning means changing jets and messing with float levels. So to try and tackle this was a little daunting but probably worth the effort. I bought the full MS2 kit that came with the aluminum closure but needed to be assembled. I did this so i could customize as i went if needed. Luckily where i work i have a guy that designs and builds custom circuit boards for a living. He is great and i couldnt have gotten this far without him, thanks Sam. I gave him the kit and some parameters that he needed and he assembled the whole thing in a couple days. If anyone has any questions on the specific build of the board ill do my best to relay any info he can give me.


So fast forward to having an assembled board…

I still had the original Si engine harness with all the connectors on it at my disposal so i started to just take that apart along with the HF interior harness. I labeled everything i would need to get me power/signal to all the engine components i knew i would need. I cut them off the harness so i had a bunch of pigtails. Using those i started to run the wires that are pre-labeled from DIYAutoTune in a manner that i knew i could hide and route them appropriately. Long story short, it was alot of work but well worth it. I have everything routed how i want and i know that i have touched every aspect of the electrical system which gives me great piece of mind.


Sidebar…

Originally i had wanted to mount the ECU forward of the shifter on the floor so i had easy access and i also wanted to put the relay board in the glove box so everything was hidden. In hindsight i spent a lot of time trying to make that work and in the end it was just too tight and not a clean look. 

 
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I ended up changing that to mount everything in the security box behind the seats. It looks and functions great, everything is in that box and it closes nice without seeing any wiring.
 
As far as individual components i used the stock TPS and stock MAP pickup location. The MAP sensor is built into the MS2 so i just had to run a vacuum line to it. I purchased new temperature sensors, one that was included in a 3 gauge AutoMeter set (Voltage, Oil Pressure, Coolant Temp) and another thats for the cooling fans (200°F ON/185°F OFF). The injectors are stock so i used the stock connectors. The alternator was new so i custom built the wiring for that to run to the battery and ground. Starter wiring is original to the HF interior harness so nothing changed there. Plus there were some stragglers like the horns and washer fluid motor that were still part of the original HF interior harness. I can give specifics on sensors if anyone needs them.

Once the Harness was built to my liking i routed the whole thing back to the security box behind the seats and cleaned up the install. If you are looking to do a MS2 install i would highly suggest using the relay board. It cleans things up really well and looks super nice. It is limited in its application but if you can make it work its a good piece of equipment.

 
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After completing the engine wiring, i buttoned up all the interior wiring under the dash and made sure that everything was working properly, i.e. turn signals, heater controls, headlight… With the engine, fuel system, cooling system and wiring buttoned up for now i moved on to finish some of the body work.

 

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#6
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I did most of the body work long ago when i changed the quarter panel but there was still some small work that needed to be done before paint. Each door had a couple small dents so no issues there. The hood had a small bend to the drivers front corner so that got fixed. The last thing i found was a golf ball sized dent in the front section of the roof. After all of that was fixed i had to clean up some surface rust from sitting and on to primer. I used mostly PPG NP270 epoxy primer, which is almost all i use when im not spray bombing things. It sticks to everything and has good fillers. Now i wouldn't say the CRX got my best work but its good enough for a track car. I wouldn't have considered it acceptable if it was my apache, ha. The primer got a quick sand to 320 and i prepped for paint. The inside of the doors and underside of the hood were painted off the vehicle first then installed onto the car. I spent a couple evenings getting everything taped and masked in my makeshift paint booth. 


A couple years ago i took some thick plastic sheeting that i literally found on the side of the road (in the box) and hung it from some aluminum braces which were attached to the ceiling. When not needed i roll it up and velcro it to the bracing so its out of the way. When i need it i let it hang and use some tape to connect the ends then i put a box fan with some furnace filters on it to vent out the overhead door. Works fairly well at keeping the overspray contained, not the best at keeping dirt low but i can wet the ground to help with that.

 
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#7
Dear_Boss

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The body was now ready to paint. I used PPG Delfleet Ford Oxford White (YZ) Single Stage paint. I went with single stage to simplify the process and i really didnt want to spray clear in my shop plus its a track car basically so i wasnt too worried about it. The PPG Delfleet is known for its durability as a single stage. Its used predominantly on industrial and work related vehicles. Its pretty thick so make sure you reduce it a little more than normal, thats at least what worked for me and what the PPG rep said if i wasn't in an environmentally controlled booth. Too thick and it will spray on nice but start to run without you noticing it. The car sprayed nice, no serious orange peel that i saw but i did get one run on the rear quarter that happened when i tripped over the air hose and grabbed the trigger hard. I wasn't worried about it because i knew it was fixable later. Car body, doors and hatch were now white again.

 
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#8
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As for the plastics for the car i needed to spend some time on those. I wish i took more before pictures but for whatever reason i did not. 

 

Bumpers - i went with the original non-Si bumpers because i actually like the thin red accent line more than the thick black one and i didnt have all of the Si trim needed. Both bumpers needed some minor repairs from road wear, nothing serious. I sanded, spray bomb pirmed with SEM plastic high build primer and wet sanded to 1000 grit. They were ready for paint.

 

Fenders - Both fenders needed some repair in the mounting hole sections where they had cracked. No surprises there. I got my airless plastic welder out and started melting. Only one of the cracks went up the sie and over to the exterior body section. I had to melt that pretty good and then i reinforced it with fiberglass on back side. Hopefully the fenders hold up well but we will see, maybe some day ill have to switch to the carbon fiber ones that are available.

 

Door Panels - Door panels where almost perfect they got a coat of primer and then wet sanded, good to go.

 

Side Skirts - these were the roughest part. I used the Si style side skirts because they have that little bit extra flare at the bottom which i really like and they still line up with the non-Si bumpers. Both side skirts had some serious damage at the jack points. Someone at one point had obviously missed the jack point and tried to lift on the plastic. I was even missing a couple chunks. So basically i had to shape some aluminum tape around the pieces and then rough up all the surfaces. I then used 3M 04240 Semi-Rigid Plastic Repair 2-part adhesive to basically fill in my aluminum tape mold. Before drying i pushed some fiberglass sheeting into the adhesive to give it some extra strength. So far this is holding up well and i cant complain. Beyond that there was some other filler needed and sanding. Finished with a coat of 270 primer and wet sanded.

 

All plastic parts are ready for paint. I prepped my “paint booth” to paint again and used the same PPG Delfleet white. I love the original look of the first gens with the two tone but i wanted to have a cleaner look so i painted everything white. White does a good job of covering imperfections and since i plan on racing this car ill take everything i can get. The plastic components came out really well so im glad i don't have to do that again right now.

 

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Since the majority of the components are now painted i moved on to some mechanical maintenance.

 

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#9
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Im sure im messing up the order of operations but i may as well talk about all the mechanical stuff i replaced/upgraded.

 

  • Energy Suspension complete bushing kit which replaces the majority of the bushings around the car, pretty cheap and definitely a needed upgrade.

  • Moog CV shafts, stock style but they were definitely built well, they have larger axle rods and the u-joits felt night and tight

  • Brakes were upgraded to the 91 Si size. I remember seeing a post quite a while ago about a “Big Brake Upgrade” and how you could simply replace your front brake components with once off a 91 Si. This definitely worked and made performance parts easier to find. The calipers i had to order from RockAuto which were not cheap especially since i didn't have a core to send back. The rotors and pads were from Power Stop Performance specifically their Evolution Brake Upgrade Kit, rotors are zinc coated, drilled/slotted and the pads Z23 carbon fiber ceramic material. I haven't done much driving with it yet so i cant speak of the performance but im excited to try them.

  • Shocks were purchased from KYB (front and rear) with all new mounting kits. I would have loved to find a better shock but these were literally the only ones i could find without spending $1000+ on a suspension kit. If anyone has any other ideas let me know.

  • Ground control rear coil over conversion

  • Cheddas auto rear pan hard bar

  • Integra front sway bar

  • New stock rear drums and shoes, i wish i still had the aluminum HF drums but i couldnt find them

  • I think thats it for now

 

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#10
Dear_Boss

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Since all the general mechanical and paint was done i turned to the interior. When i had the Si parts car i removed all the black interior from it since i like the color better and wanted the spare parts. First thing i did was clean and paint the dash. Everything was pretty grimey so i washed it with soap and warm water and let it dry for days. I scuffed it then prepped it with Duplicolor plastic adhesion promoter followed by duplicolor matte black plastic/vinyl dye/spray paint. This came out way better than i expected and i recommend it to anyone wanting to give a new look to the interior. Dash went in without too much of a struggle, granted i would be removing it throughout the process as i rerouted wiring and changed my order of operations but i was happy with the outcome. 


The car’s original interior was blue and for some reason i could only find one door panel so that was a problem. The 87 Si door panels are slightly different how they look and how they mount. It even appeared that the inside panel of the door shell was different so i was at a little bit of a loss. Instead of scrouging ebay to find 84/85 door panels i just started modifying. I found that relieving the door shell where the interior handle mounts would make it work. I cut up the door shell and shaped part of it for mounting location to the later model door panel. After some cutting and grinding i made it work. I was a little sad that i had to cut up the doors but i actually like the later 1st gen panels way better, plus they were black. As for the rest of the interior i did the same thing as the dash, cleaned, prepped and painted. The lowers were all painted black and the roof and pillar panels were painted a medium gray. I really like the way it turned out.

 

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By this time my list was starting to dwindle so i just started installing as much as i could. Minus the order of operations issues i came across while installing the interior it wasnt too bad. Its been a long time since i ripped the panels out of the car so it was a learning experience. The last piece of interior i needed to figure out was the seats. My original blue seats were not in the greatest shape, especially after i scrubbed them. As of today im still trying to figure out if im going to try and dye the seat covers black or buy some cheap ebay racing seats. Ill update when i make the decision.

 

Paint - Done

Mechanical - Done (hopefully)

Interior - Done

Time to assemble the exterior

 

There were three main pieces that i was missing for the exterior of the car, a left side headlight bezel, rear bumper filler (piece between the bumper and tail lights) and the rear bumper reinforcement. The filler panel and reinforcement we rotted beyond being useable so i couldnt use the original and the original bezel was smashed when this car got hit in the 90’s.

 

I had almost given up hope that i would find a headlight bezel because they are so rare. I was searching on Car-Part.com and came across what looked like a new addition to a junkyard out in california which was a red 84 CRX HF that still had the bezel in the pictures. Sure enough they still had it when i called and i basically paid them whatever they wanted for it. It ended up costing me $112 shipped but i was happy to have the piece and not have to succumb to the later 86/87 headlights. Not that i dont like the later version but i really wanted the recessed headlights. Once i got the bezel, of course 2 of the mounting tabs were broke/missing. Since there was literally nothing else i could find i got the plastic welder out and started to make my own mounting tabs. I had a 3rd gen civic bezel for some reason so i used those tabs to match plastic material and shape. The tabs came out pretty good and when installing lined up and functioned fine. I wish that i had a before repair picture but for some reason i never took one. Either way i now had both bezels and was happy to have them, hopefully they stay intact.

 

The rear filler panel was sourced from the same car at the same junkyard, i sent them a picture of what i needed and they said they had it. This was a bit of a fiasco though. I placed the order in probably November of 2021 and paid them $150 including shipping for the part. A couple weeks went by and i had heard nothing from them so i called. I was told that they were busy and they hadnt had time to pull it yet, which is fine since i wasnt in a rush. About a month went by with me calling and getting the run around which was frustrating to say the least. By probably the end of january i got a call that it had shipped so i was excited to get it painted and on the car. When it showed up it turns out they sent the wrong part, they sent me the rear bumper reinforcement so that was definitely annoying. After a couple more weeks and more phone calls i finally got them to understand what i needed and they confirmed with images of what they removed to send me, all is good. Now… here i am in March 2022 and still dont have it ha. Apparently the younger guy that was handling the sale messed up and didnt charge me enough money for shipping so instead of asking for more money he just ignored it and kept pushing me off which did not make me happy. I had to strategically call at certain times to be able to get ahold of his boss. His boss told me the whole story and we finally worked out getting the part ready to ship. I did have to pay another $100 but again, i was happy to have the part, plus i got to keep the reinforcement so i cant complain. It should be here this week (March 16th). Once i get that ill get it painted and on the car so i can finish the rear end assembly.

 

While i was waiting for the stuff above i got the majority of the plastics on the car. The front end still seemed like it had a little bit of a sway to it so it took some menouvering of components to get everything to line up but i got it. Its not perfect but it will do for what i want. As i went through installing the bumpers i realized i didnt have the bumper stays which really led me to this site. I had used the site before for reference but hadnt posted anything. Thankfully when i did ask greasemonkeyreborne and CSPCRX came to my aid. I made the below sliders and they work great.

 
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Beyond that i had to replace alot of bolts and make some general adjustments along the way but its all on now. So close to taking it for a spin and doing some more tuning of the ECU.
 
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Im currently in the final stages of “restoring” this car back to driveable. I have left all the side red accent molding off until i know i dont have to remove anything again. Its held on with double sided tape and i know it could snap if i pry on it too much. So there is that and the rear bumper/tailights left. Ill update as i get closer.


So there it is, so far, my 85 CRX HF(Si) build. Its come a long way in about a year and a half and im excited to drive it. 


Im sure that ive missed things and messed up the order of how i did it since its been a work in progress for so long but if anyone has any questions or comments just let me know. Ill do my best to answer.


Thanks,

Brent

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


#11
CSPCRX

One heck of a post!  Amazing work you have done to the car and bringing it back to driving condition!  Cant wait to see some shots of her on the street!  Your going to get tones of looks.  Just don’t see 1st gens on the street. Well done!


Victor
86 B-Powered CRX SI (SMF Solo2, HPDE-4 NASA & TA-A Time Attack

85 CRX DX totally original
07 Harley FXST Softail

2021 Tacoma Tow/Daily


#12
gtpilot

  • Leadfoot
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    • Group: 2012 Contributor
    • Location:Lakeway, TX - USA
    • Drives: '87 CRX Si - HYDRA, '86 CRX Si
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Indeed well done - to bring a project back after 15 years is awesome!



#13
Dear_Boss

  • Slowpoke
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    • Group: Members
    • Drives: 1985 CRX HF/Si, 1959 Chevrolet Apache, 2016 Harley Street Bob

Yea, im happy i pulled it out of storage!

 

I think Sunday is the day for the first test drive. Need to do some tuning with the EFI and make sure nothing falls off. Ill update later.



#14
CSPCRX

Good luck and pray for a event free maiden voyage!


Victor
86 B-Powered CRX SI (SMF Solo2, HPDE-4 NASA & TA-A Time Attack

85 CRX DX totally original
07 Harley FXST Softail

2021 Tacoma Tow/Daily


#15
Dear_Boss

  • Slowpoke
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    • Group: Members
    • Drives: 1985 CRX HF/Si, 1959 Chevrolet Apache, 2016 Harley Street Bob

First drive went pretty well...

 

Left the house and the car was bucking like crazy, turned around and adjusted the fuel map. Left again with Tuner Studio VE Live Analyze on and after about 10 seconds the engine smoothed right out. No speedometer or Tach so ill have to fix that but it drove pretty decent other than not wanting to downshift from 5th to 4th. Anyone know if there are adjustments that can be made at the pedal or if there is something i should look out for as far as not wanting to lock into a gear? Ill have to take a look at that.

 

Other than that the suspension felt tight so ill make some adjustments and go at it again.