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Project Moneytaker


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#1
86_CRX_AS

  • Granny
  • Pip
    • Group: Members
    • Drives: 1986 Honda CRX AS

I'm Tobias from germany.

 

Now, building Hondas for 17years of my life.

My last 2 projects were a euopean 5 door Civic, aka MB2, with a B18C4 turbo engine and 640hp

It was complete build with leather and alcantara interieur, engine, bodywork and so on

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And the last project, which I didn't finish complete, was a Honda Civic EG sedan with AWD from factory and also a turbo D16 DOHC engine.

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But, because of work and other things, I had no longer the time to finish the EG and also not the time for the maintanance of an 640hp daily.

I sold both cars and searched for a classic Honda. It should be a Civic, CRX or prelude before 1987.

The plan was, to buy a good car which needs no work and drive as an OEM car. :unsure: (nice plan :ph34r: )

 

After half an year of searching, I found a 1986 CRX AS with the 130Hp D16ZC engine.

It had only 56tkm, which is around 35k miles.

After a lot of phone calls, because the older owner, was not happy to sell the car. I did the sales talk with his wife. 1day later, I drove 1300km across Germany, to pick up the car in Lübeck.

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It looked greate and the plan was only install coilovers and a nice set of rims.

No time consuming work. :D

 

The side skirts had a few little scatches and I disassembled them from the car.

And right now, here is the point where the project started :lol: :lol:

 

 

I found what I didn't suspect with this millage. A big rust hole in the front of the sideskirt and a few smaller holes.

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The rear wheel arch was also rusti under the HPA side skirt

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The other side was the same

 

I also find two two welded pices in the floor. But not in the quality, I were happy with.

pblhog94.jpg

 

I decided to build a car again from ground up and to a complete restauration

This was now 2.5 years ago

 



#2
86_CRX_AS

  • Granny
  • Pip
    • Group: Members
    • Drives: 1986 Honda CRX AS

I began with the side skirt on passenger side.

The hole section in the area of the A-pillar was rusty.

 

 

First I removed the rusty material generously.

 

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I had to build the hole part with a flat sheetmetal, because the AS is very rare here in Germany and you can't get any bodypanels in good shape

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The I removed all the rust on the rear passenger wheelarch and the side skirt.

The inner wheelarch was also scrap. I drilled the spotwelds out removed the panel and built it with a form in which I hamered it in the right shape.

 

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This is what the result looks like

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Removed all the rusty areas of the wheelarch

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I bought the two sides as a repair panel form wolf steel from canada.

The quality and fitment is not the best, the panel is double the thickness from an original panel and all the adjacent areas are completly missing. You have to build it yourself.

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#3
na-spirit

  • Slowpoke
  • PipPip
    • Group: Members
    • Drives: 86 Civic si. 01 Integra Type R

Looking great man.. Some skilled work going on here! 



#4
86_CRX_AS

  • Granny
  • Pip
    • Group: Members
    • Drives: 1986 Honda CRX AS

Looking great man.. Some skilled work going on here!

Haha thanks ;-)

 

For this build, I take all the time, which is needed to build it correct.

I will drive the car a long time and have fun with it and the painting will cost a lot of money, so I want a solution that I will have no more trouble with rust.

 

It was the goal, to bring the car last year on street --> NOT

No it was the goal, to bring the car this year on street --> MAYBE ^^



#5
anjin

  • redlinefever
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    • Group: 2014 Contributor
    • Location:Perth, Western Australia
    • Drives: 83 crx - kakaburra,83 gen1 Noir, 87 EF7 Glasstop crx, 83 gen 1 rebuild replica mugen racecar
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Love the work. Bit of inspiration I need to tackle the side of the roof and a few other spots as well. Thank you/


anjin aka Ian

"I can't believe it - Ive just been passed by a sh!tbox"

#6
86_CRX_AS

  • Granny
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    • Drives: 1986 Honda CRX AS

Haha :D . No problem.

 

I think everyone knows this time, when it's hard to keep up the motivation and see the small steps.

But it's all about the lifestyle and the fun which thiése cars make to drive, when it's finished. B)



#7
86_CRX_AS

  • Granny
  • Pip
    • Group: Members
    • Drives: 1986 Honda CRX AS

This is the finished product after all the welding and grinding.

 

The welding works very well for my second time I deed it (a Civic ED3 before). The only problem was, that the repair panels from WolfSteel are double the thickness then the OEM panel. This means, that the growing because of the heating is not the same as the OEM panel and it's very difficuilt to become a smooth dentfree panel.

Between the panels i but 3 layers of weldthrough primer.

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Know, I have a few dents which I have to remove with the hammer. But we will see...

This is the finish after putting one layer of TEROSON EP 5010 TR. This is a chemical tin replacement product, which has not the negative characteristics of the tin but all the benefits.

After hardening, it was smoothed with a body planer.

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Spraying one layer of roststop primer, to protect it from corrosion.

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The I began to remove the underbody coat and found another rusty piece in the area of the rear axel mounting points. :(

Built a new piece and welded it in

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So far so good. This was, hopefully, the welding part which I thougt I don't have to do :D .

The next stept is to remove all the underbody coat to the bare metall and paint the underbody.

 

 

And sorry for my bad english guys. But I'm only a Bavarian guy. :lol:



#8
anjin

  • redlinefever
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    • Location:Perth, Western Australia
    • Drives: 83 crx - kakaburra,83 gen1 Noir, 87 EF7 Glasstop crx, 83 gen 1 rebuild replica mugen racecar
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Your english is quite understandable. And way better than my non existent non engish skills. 

I sympathise with the different metal thickness and the different heat distortion. Just bought a tig welder as a retirement present, to myself, and will be learning to use it for this type of work. I found the mig welding difficult to control on old thin metal, so hopefully better results.

Very much appreciate your thread and work.

Ian


anjin aka Ian

"I can't believe it - Ive just been passed by a sh!tbox"

#9
86_CRX_AS

  • Granny
  • Pip
    • Group: Members
    • Drives: 1986 Honda CRX AS

Your english is quite understandable. And way better than my non existent non engish skills. 

I sympathise with the different metal thickness and the different heat distortion. Just bought a tig welder as a retirement present, to myself, and will be learning to use it for this type of work. I found the mig welding difficult to control on old thin metal, so hopefully better results.

Very much appreciate your thread and work.

Ian

Thanks Ian.

 

It's not the first car I build, but the first restauration for me.

I learn every day and not all the work is perfect at the first time, but I take me the time and do my best ;-)

 

You could be right, that a WIG welder could be the better way.

Restauration pros do a lot of body work, with soldering the parts together. This should be better and avoid bending the panels.



#10
CSPCRX

  • Leadfoot
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    • Group: 2016 Contributor
    • Location:Phoenix AZ
    • Drives: B Powered 86 CRX SI, 2012 Audi S4, 07 Harley FXST Softail
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Great work! Car looks great! Victoria red CRX for the win.


Victor
86 B-Powered CRX SI (SMF Solo2, HPDE-4 NASA & TA-A Time Attack
07 Harley FXST Softail
12 Audi S4