155 replies to this topic

[Screech]

I have an old booster here that you can have. Was full of brake fluid so the internals are most likely trash. Be you could tear it apart and make a booster delete unit, seen it done on here awhile back, think kakabox had one too for a little while. I think the independent intake setup you have may be causing some of the brake pedal variance, so I would vote to just go manual pedal so that it is consistent.

[Slammed]

Jebus! Just read the whole thread. Inspiring to say the least.

Did you put the in car heater on hot and position 4 when it was getting hot? i have to keep doing this to keep the engine temp at 1/2 way on the gauge.

Getting new thermostat and radiator soon enough tho, hoping this helps! IF your saying the oil is like a yellow, mayo colour then water is deffo' mixing with oil and most likely is H/G failure - thing is theres always a reason to why it go's. Without finding the reason for the h/g going then it can always happen again

Sad to see the car up for sale after all this - i wold seriousley be interested if it wasnt for the fact i live in the UK.

Question for you.... The twin 40's you put on there, what kind of work was involved? New inlet manifold? Re-jetting? I really want a new carb setup as the standard carb on the 1.3 i feel is v.restrictive!!

Cheers,
Jay

[blacksheep]

HOLY BEJEBUS!

ok...it's been a year and and some 28,000 miles since the sheep has been on the road...not bad...not the fastest...it's had its fun moments in turns...gas mileage has been an average of 22 miles per gallon...90% highway at 3000 to 3500 rpm steady or 60 to 70 mph depending on stretch of highway...two oil leaks, front and rear crank seals...motor sat unturned for near 2 years...quart of oil every 2 tanks or 400 some miles...oil pressure with 3.5 quarts at highway speeds is 55lbs...voltage at highway speeds with no load is 14...lights on 13.8...heater fan first position 13.5V...second position 13.2V...third position 12.2V...all lights interior/exterior function properly...suspension is a little on the spongy side...still on original (maybe? Screech?) shocks/coilovers but with all new bushings...otherwise handles responsively yet with a softer response to bumps...does have slight pull to the left but will be corrected with an alignment job...possibilty for new shocks/springs...shocks have been decided...researching spring rate...water temp runs between 180-190F depending on ambient temp of the day...180F thermostat...with that being said, it's friggin cold in the winter...heat on fan at full, barely heats up interior...bare metal floorboards may be to blame...brake booster is failed...brakes do have solid feel but require a liitle more effort to pedal...compares to Wilwood manual brake cylinder...rear defrost inoperable due to defrost grid being half scraped off...rear wiper works but does not return to park when turned off...lack of park ground wire at fault...front wipers skip across windshield at speeds above 65mph and no contact with windshield at 80mph...mad props to the people at Rain-X...fuel guage innoperable...Auto Meter fuel level sending unit needs new modification to float lever...

i need to discuss some weber tuning...throttle is responsive but needs to be at 3200rpm to cam on...5000rpm has a second kick in rate of acceleration at wot...however...hitting 4th gear clutch fully engaged at 4000rpm she coughs and stumbles on herself...out of gas stumble...it will clear after 8-10 seconds of slight blips to the throttle keeping rpm no higher than 3000...then continue into 5th with no more hesitation...or if no more than half throttle and shifting at 4000rpm she'll cough and stumble when 5th gear fully engaged at 3000rpm or 60mph...my thought is float settings or needles are gummed...considering changing from oval filters to 2 1/2in air horns with cap filters...fuel pressure guage reads 3lbs...fuel pump does have tendancy to run dry at stop lights when below half tank...has caused carbs to run dry and resulting "stop on the side of the road to rock the car to get the gas to the pump"...fuel pump location on firewall equals bad...open discussion on the 3 fuel lines...which ones do what and the best way you use them...on list of things to do in comming weekends which also include the revisit to the motor with the possibilty for .040 over pistons...stay tuned

p.s. WEBER SIDEDRAFT CARB PEOPLE!!!
will discuss carb setup in private message in case you don't want your competition to know...peace

Edited by blacksheep, 09 June 2010 - 10:26 PM.

[Screech]

..suspension is a little on the spongy side...still on original (maybe? Screech?)

I never replaced anything on the suspension. So, unless someone did it before I got the car it very well may be original. Didn't you get the ES swaybar bushings from me though?

I'm getting the same feeling about the EW4 Si I have. I think there are some very worn bushings on that one.

[Screech]

Well, it looks like I'll be merging this project back with my B20Z.... My first Honda should be coming home next month. And she'll be looking not like we've seen her here before!!

[Screech]

This car is mine again.... Honda didn't even charge us for the notary service. Thomas is doing some body work and will deliver her early next year for me to put the mechanical parts back in. I'm really stoked!!

story continues here....