I just drove an 85 CRX and need to know what to look for when I get it on the lift b4 I buy it. It seems like a nice car, 125,000 miles, runs well, clean no rust to speak of. Feels like it needs shocks/struts all 4 corners. The only problems revieled by seller are : needs a cat, hatch struts and an antenna. Clutch and tranny feels good. Not a speed demon at 9000' ASL. Goes well in the snow. Says it gets 40 MPG. Please advise.
2
85 Crx For The Kid
Started by mountaintoyparts, Dec 10 2008 12:28 PM
30 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 10 December 2008 - 12:28 PM
#2
Posted 10 December 2008 - 12:34 PM
QUOTE (mountaintoyparts @ Dec 10 2008, 12:28 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I just drove an 85 CRX and need to know what to look for when I get it on the lift b4 I buy it. It seems like a nice car, 125,000 miles, runs well, clean no rust to speak of. Feels like it needs shocks/struts all 4 corners. The only problems revieled by seller are : needs a cat, hatch struts and an antenna. Clutch and tranny feels good. Not a speed demon at 9000' ASL. Goes well in the snow. Says it gets 40 MPG. Please advise.
things to check while the vehicle is on a lift:
RUST.
Check near the panhard bar (angled bar near the rear suspension) ,floors and near the wheelwells for rust
Also check for any chassis damage and any leaks engine/transmission/brakes.
Obseve and see where the firewall meets the strut tower on both sides (under hood) that theres no serious rust.
"Your arms are too short to box with GOD."
#3
Posted 10 December 2008 - 01:08 PM
Welcome to the site.
Catalytic converter, hatch struts, and shocks are relatively cheap and easy to change. If it needs a catalytic converter, it probably needs a new O2 sensor (less than $30 from a good parts store).
Outside of rust (Honda Cancer) ask when the timing belt was last changed. It needs to be replaced every five years or so. If it breaks, it gets expensive (bent valves).
Scott
Catalytic converter, hatch struts, and shocks are relatively cheap and easy to change. If it needs a catalytic converter, it probably needs a new O2 sensor (less than $30 from a good parts store).
Outside of rust (Honda Cancer) ask when the timing belt was last changed. It needs to be replaced every five years or so. If it breaks, it gets expensive (bent valves).
Scott
Form Follows Function
#4
Posted 10 December 2008 - 03:19 PM
Yes, he said the timing belt was done in the last 5 years or so. Taking it to emmisions tomorrow, if it passes(and even if it doesn't) I will be making an offer. He is asking $1600.00 obo. ???????
#5
Posted 10 December 2008 - 05:49 PM
QUOTE (mountaintoyparts @ Dec 10 2008, 12:19 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
He is asking $1600.00 obo. ???????
That seems a bit high, unless it is very, very cherry. Is it Fuel Injected, (a Si)? If it is carbed that is much too high.
What part of the country are you in? Old CRXs are common in California so prices are lower out here. If you are in Rust Country they are more rare and slightly more expensive.
Scott
Form Follows Function
#6
Posted 10 December 2008 - 06:55 PM
#7
Posted 10 December 2008 - 07:07 PM
QUOTE (mountaintoyparts @ Dec 10 2008, 06:55 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
It is very nice, virtually no rust. I'm in the mtns outside of Denver. Carb, for sure.
Still check for rust, it's there - trust me. It will be hiding under the carpet. Good luck with it.
Adding power makes you faster in the straights. Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere. - Colin Chapman
#8
Posted 10 December 2008 - 08:14 PM
#9
Posted 10 December 2008 - 08:24 PM
I may be alone on thinking this, but that just seems MUCH too high a price, especially for a carb model... That car would have to have decent paint, no cracked pannels, and a mint interior before I would pay that much. Not knocking your purchase... just don't want you to get screwed. b.t.w- welcome aboard!
#10
Posted 11 December 2008 - 08:52 AM
Thank you, I'll check it out real well and then we'll see what kind of deal can be made. My biggest concern is if he gets in a wreck, how will this little crackerbox hold up?
#11
Posted 11 December 2008 - 10:40 AM
QUOTE (mountaintoyparts @ Dec 11 2008, 08:52 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Thank you, I'll check it out real well and then we'll see what kind of deal can be made. My biggest concern is if he gets in a wreck, how will this little crackerbox hold up?
it will hold up a lot better than you think. in my opinion your not gonna get a whole lot better unless you go a little newer and get something with airbags
EDIT: hold up is the wrong term. the car will not hold up very well because it is going to crumple but it will do a pretty good job at keeping the driver fairly safe
When I die, i want to go asleep peaceful.......... not screaming and freaking out like everyone else in the car
"i left the bar a little after you and ended up flipping my car in the arbys drive thru"
IM A LOSER!!! my car pulls harder when spinning than any "highly modified" EW
Team BUrnOUt founding member
"i left the bar a little after you and ended up flipping my car in the arbys drive thru"
QUOTE (cbstdscott @ Dec 10 2008, 03:27 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Another loser who can not get traction. I feel sorry for him.
IM A LOSER!!! my car pulls harder when spinning than any "highly modified" EW
Team BUrnOUt founding member
#12
Posted 11 December 2008 - 05:59 PM
OK, it failed emissions, a tad (.3) high on Hydro Carbons. (unburnt fuel) I think the CAT is ok but some have told me a good tune up should fix it. It looked ok on the lift, found some rust, not sure how much is too much. Will try to post some pics. It goes down the highway pretty well. A little shake at about 75mph. I know it needs shocks on all 4 corners. I can hear some clunking in the back on bumps, not sure about that. Looking at the bushings back there, they could need replaced. Can't figure out the pics, sorry.
#13
Posted 14 December 2008 - 06:15 PM
Well I got it! Worked out a deal for $1000.00, I think thats a fair deal. Will be tuning it up to pass emissions so if any of the gurus have suggestions, I'm all ears. Gonna give it to the son on Christmas Eve.
#14
Posted 15 December 2008 - 08:53 AM
What plugs should I use, OEM or aftermarket? Cap, wires, rotor, plugs, oil change, air filter, fuel filter what else? I have 10 days from last Thursdays e test to get one free test and PASS (I hope)
#15
Posted 15 December 2008 - 09:17 AM
QUOTE (mountaintoyparts @ Dec 15 2008, 08:53 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
What plugs should I use, OEM or aftermarket? Cap, wires, rotor, plugs, oil change, air filter, fuel filter what else? I have 10 days from last Thursdays e test to get one free test and PASS (I hope)
Stock NGK's will do you fine, as far as plugs go. The rest of the parts should be OEM replacements too. You could also try using some SeaFoam to clean out the engine, and this other product called "Guaranteed to pass" Do exactly what it says, and it's "guaranteed to pass". I've heard pretty good things about it, but never used it, since I don't have to pass emissions.
How about we just agree to respect each other's opinion?Even though yours is so obviously wrong...
Click here to see how I basically gave my car away to another RPR member!
Click here to see how I basically gave my car away to another RPR member!