73 replies to this topic

[monzster]

Trying to find performance piston rods for a 87 CRX SI and the only thing I can find are from a company called Pauter. I have never heard of them. Has anyone had any dealings with them or recommendations for piston rods. The car is used in SCCA Road Racing. Thinking of stepping up running the Majors next year and want to beef up the engine a little. Im looking for good parts. No Ebay junk. Thanks in advance.

[Eclipsado]

Hi mate, in my first Nissan S13 ca18det engine when i made a rebuild inatalled forged pistons and forged rods, rods were Pauter and they quality are awesome, saw eagle and manley and they arent as good that pauter are, this engine still running nowadays with 300+ bhp

Thats all i can say about Pauter rods atleast for me i definetaly recommend them

[monzster]

Thanks for the info. 

[gtpilot]

Monz - Pauter makes good rods, don't know anything about their pistons.  What class are you thinking of for SCCA?  GTL or GT3 I assume running aftermarket rods/pistons?  I bet I have a bunch of stuff still left over form my EW days of GT5/4 racing.

 

Kirk

[monzster]

GTPILOT we run H Production. We have done well running Regional but wanted to run Majors and were going to build another engine and thought some better rods would be a good investment. From what I have been told though since my post the stock rods can take up to 200HP and I know we wont be anywhere near that so Im not sure now. 

[gtpilot]

Stock rods are fine for the RPM you are turning in HP with ARP hardware installed in them, I didn't think that aftermarket rods were allowed in HP at your prep level?  Pistons should be free as long as you don't go past 12:1 CR.

 

The motor you are trying to build is rather simple with relatively OEM parts but you need to find the best flowing stock IM that you can.  I know a few guys that have put several on the flow bench to get the best one.

 

Then there is camshaft development that you need to do.  Goeff @ Colt Cams can help you out with that.  

 

A good stepped tri-Y header design to get you as much bottom end out of the motor as you can will help and won't kill what top end you are going to be limited to by the IM.

 

Get a programmable ECU (Megasquirt, etc.) and get it tuned after that.

[monzster]

We run a stock Integra computer. Never had any luck with programable computers. Have tried a megasquirt and didnt get much out of it. We tried Hondata on our 91 CRX that runs F and took it to a guy who was a certified Hondata tuner and lost 20 hp. So we just stick with the Integra ECUs. As far as header we run Kirk and SCCA doesnt give us anything on the intake manifold to my understanding. So were are limited there I think. Im going to get in a rule book just to be sure. Im not sure what cam is in the car. Im going to get with the previous owner to see what he put in it but would like to get another so we can keep the engine we have now together. Would like to run something bigger but I know you can only go so big with the stock ECU. 

 

Thanks for all the info. 

[gtpilot]

Where in FL do you live?  By chance do you know Jay Griffin?  He has run in HP for years down there and has a bunch of 1st Gen CRX knowledge and parts.

 

Yep - IM must remain stock, port matching only within 1" of the mating flange

 

Kirk

[monzster]

I actually live in Virginia. I have heard Mr. Griffins name mentioned at the track. 

[gtpilot]

Sorry mate - I just had it in my head that you were in FL.  What are you racing plans for this year?

[monzster]

Gona help build this engine for my friend and hopefully he will win some races. I didn't get to go to any races last year because of 2 knee replacements so I'm excited to get back out there and do some crewing this year. He is planning on running the Majors this year. He has gotten pretty board with regional after 3 years so it will be a change. Looking forward to it.

[gtpilot]

Cool!  So, stock rods with ARP hardware and a set of stock PG6 pistons gets you right at your desired compression ratio...all parts are readily available and the block only needs to be bored for the new pistons.  I have built several of these motors for HP guys and they work - no machining of the pistons required.

[monzster]

I got the engine tore down Friday. Will be going to the machine shop this week.

[gtpilot]

One other tidbit - find a full set (10) of head studs/washers/nuts and use them for the girdle on the bottom end.  Torque them the same as head bolts - 43 ft/lbs - your bottom end will hold together longer.  The center main bearing starts getting fretting on the edges and you can see the faces of the main bearing clamp area getting polished due to crank vibration making stuff move around...this will go a long way to giving you a bullet proof bottom end for the revs you will turn.

 

Kirk

[PuddleSkipper]

Not sure if this helps.........

 

Ew Rods

http://www.redpepper...topic=57800&hl=