45 replies to this topic

[Blue87Crxsi]

Wow man this project is inspiring me to this to my ew4 soon lol

[Blue87Crxsi]

Any more updates on this one ?? lol

[xFactor]

Yeah.

 

Went to a track day at The FIRM in Starke, Fl.  Found out the hard way 100 octane wouldn't support the compression we have.  Melted #2 sparkplug and sent it through tthe exhaust valve.  Meanwhile we got a Cometic .88 headgasket, and had sealing problems, so we are going back to a Fel-pro and are going to run 110.

 

Also put a Go-Pro under the hood after we notice 4 perfect circles of melted paint on the firewall.  We found Evil reversion issues we are hoping to solve with inlet trumpets that we designed with Solidwprks and had 3-d printed.  Here is that video.

 

 

I also incorporated a microswitch on the throttle at idle to pull voltage from the map signal - ghetto afc.

 

Gotta go to work

Later, Matt

[cbstdscott]

Backfiring? Is that a timing issue?

Just how much compression do you have? Again, adjusting your ignition timing might allow you to use a lower octane fuel.

Scott

[xFactor]

It may be a cam timing issue, where the intake valve is opening too early while the piston is still coming up. 

 

Our compression was north of 235psi, and while I'm going to pull a couple of degrees out, I don't want to cut it's nuts off pulling 10 degrees out just to run cheaper fuel.

 

I also found out last night the head was warped and we have a broken #2 ringland.

 

Did I mention Chumpcar Daytona is May 26?

 

Later, Matt

[gtpilot]

Reversion and the resultant fuel that has been spraying on the firewall was always an issue when the motor was "off the cam" and too low an RPM in our racecar.  Trumpets will definitely help and one of your challenges is the fact that you have the injectors so far back up the inlet track - great for atomization and HP, the same place that we had our injectors in the ITBs. 

 

The reversion isn't an ignition timing issue, so you have the right idea of a good high octane fuel for the CR of the motor and getting it tuned up!  What CR is the motor and what fuel are you running?

 

Kirk

[xFactor]

What is the challenge, keeping the fuel in the intake?

 

I have not done the math to figure out the cr, but the cylinders were making anywhere between 235 - 245 psi compression.  I'm guessing around 14-1.

 

We found some 112 octane locally.  I'll get more info on it soon.

 

Did it ever worry you about spitting out raw fuel in the engine bay?  Scares the crap outta me...

 

Later, Matt

[gtpilot]

Once we determined that it was not backfiring in the intake we never worried about the occasional spray and I learned to keep the motor in the upper RPM range.  How aggressive is your cam?

 

We ran 112 octane as well - our motors were ~12.5:1 CR.  Have you fly cut your head and decked the block?  If so, by how much?  What piston are you running?  I can help you figure out your CR.

 

Kirk

[tjbizzo]

On pg2 you said you guys tried 3dgr cam adv. on the dyno but the engine didn't like it so you moved it back to 0dgr.  Did you also try slightly retarding the cam?  I was under the impression that was what some racers did to shift the powerband upwards because of the later closing of the intake valves.  Not sure how that would affect the reversion issues you seem to be having.  Would it help to have something like a fast idle stop on the throttle shaft to avoid pulling such high vacuum under braking, or is reversion mostly rpm related due to being "off the cam"? 

[xFactor]

Once we determined that it was not backfiring in the intake we never worried about the occasional spray and I learned to keep the motor in the upper RPM range.  How aggressive is your cam?

 

We ran 112 octane as well - our motors were ~12.5:1 CR.  Have you fly cut your head and decked the block?  If so, by how much?  What piston are you running?  I can help you figure out your CR.

 

Kirk

 

 

We are using a Web regrind, .412 lift, 252 duration.  Here is the full cam card:

http://www.webcamsha...066_000311.html

 

I think the block has been cleaned up, and the head has been decked so many times that it's into the threaded boss under the timing cover.  It's a Pm3 piston from the 92-95 civic dx d15b7, and it sticks out over the deck 1mm.  The head gasket is .055 thousands.  I'm familiar with the correct way to figure out the compression ratio by cc'ing the head and stuff, I just haven't done it. 

 

Is the 112 leaded?  Do you have pics of your set-up?

 

 

On pg2 you said you guys tried 3dgr cam adv. on the dyno but the engine didn't like it so you moved it back to 0dgr.  Did you also try slightly retarding the cam?  I was under the impression that was what some racers did to shift the powerband upwards because of the later closing of the intake valves.  Not sure how that would affect the reversion issues you seem to be having.  Would it help to have something like a fast idle stop on the throttle shaft to avoid pulling such high vacuum under braking, or is reversion mostly rpm related due to being "off the cam"? 

 

Ah...the two things I regret not doing at the dyno were retarding the cam, and pulling timing.  After advancing the cam and seeing no gain, I retarded it a few degrees - I forget how much.  It was hard to fire up and ran pretty rough, the dyno guy was like "sounds like a waste of time", and I agreed, but I forgot that by doing so I pulled a bunch of ignition timing out and didn't reset the distributor.  So we aborted that idea.  Lesson learned...

 

I also wish I had pulled a few degrees of ignition out to see how it affected everything.  There is a good chance I smoked the engine on the dyno because we were caught up in the moment making almost 50 more hp, and stupid me never looked at the plugs in between dyno and track days.  Another lesson learned...

 

The reversion could be so many things.  On the video it looked like it occured at a few points on the rpm scale, and it definately happened on a certain wot/lift/wot corner at The FIRM. The brake booster isn't hooked up fwiw...

 

I've read crap that the reversion problem was all in the exhaust collector for some other dude.  Retarding the cam, running more lash on the intake valves, intake trumpets, and hooking the vacuum ignition advance back up are all possible solutions.

 

Later, Matt

[gtpilot]

If you are running a stock ECU it is another part of the problem as the injectors do not shut off as soon as the throttle is closed - it takes almost a second for them injectors to shut off and now you have all of that fuel spray sitting up in the top of the intake runner.  As soon as you crack open the throttle you get an immediate dump of all that fuel into the intake tract. 

 

The 112 fuel is leaded - made by Sunoco.  Link below of the 1.3L race motor...

 

Kirk

 

http://www.redpepper...CN1678.JPG.html

[xFactor]

So to make a short story long,

 

We got the new pm3 pistons and sent them to the machine shop to press the wrist pins out, grind a little exhaust valve relief on the new pistons, and press them back into our rods.  What happened is we got valve reliefs on the old pistons.  They didn't notice the cracked ringland and didn't want to guestimate the valve cuts on the new pistons...

 

I've never done this before so I did the right thing.  I called someone smarter than me and got a lesson.

 

First I marked where I needed to be on my rigging so I don't press the new wrist pin in too far, and after way more pumps on the jack that I thought would be necessary, the old wrist pin kapowed out.

 

I then took a propane torch to the rod end, and watched it eventually turn blue, and then a medium gray, and got ready to press the new pin and newly dremeled piston through the rod.  But it went wrong and I didn't have the rod supported right.  The wrist pin went in crooked a tiny bit and the rod clamped down on it.  I wound up pressing it out and wasting the new piston and pin.  Luckily I had three more in back up.  I threw a new wrist pin in the freezer this time as I ground the exhaust relief on another piston.  I then set up a timer and torched the rod for four minutes and was more careful as I lined everything back up.

 

This time the pin almost fell halfway through by itself.  I quickly pressed it to my previous marks and was done.

 

We got the engine reassembled without manifolds and did a compression test, and got just over 200 across the board.  It was 1:30 at night when we fired it up.  It sounded a bit off, number 1 exhaust was cold, so we went home.

 

I came back and took the itb's apart.  I tweaked on the spacing and re-adjusted the throttle plates with the old daylight method, and we were ready for dyno.

 

Tonight was dyno.  Freshly loaded with 110, we rolled a baseline of 133hp and 115tq at 21deg initial, 31deg advance timing on the local Mustang Dyno..  This time we pulled timing, and found more throughout the curve.  Encouraged by this we continued to pull timing all the way to 11 initial 21 advanced making our original 137hp and now 122tq  vs. 118tq last time.  At 9 initial and 19 advanced it finally dropped off and we went back to 11/21 and repeated the results.  All the while the new wideband was showing 12's, and the plugs look great, no pepper, and the fact they were all there...

 

Then we went for cam timing.  We were zeroed out at 4.5deg advanced on the cam sprocket.  I retarded it to 3degA an dthe output jumped to 140hp 124tq.  Yeah I think we were on to something.  Pulled another degree out to 2degA, reset the timing 11/21 and laid down...

 

142hp and 125tq. 

 

I will post more later,

 

Matt

[xFactor]

After the whole dyno awesomeness, I worked on the ghetto afc. 

 

Here is a pic of the idle position switch:

 

 

At idle the switch is engaged, and it bypasses the map 5v supply through a resistor knocking it down a volt.

 

 

 

The original Natty Six-Pack has been swapped for the fpr clearance duct / ram air(?) itb inlet.

 

 

 

 

later, matt

[xFactor]

 

 

 

Anyone else making this kind of power from an ew?

[rollz87civic]

i would say 142hp out of a NA EW is up there. not to many have done it. Good job.