8 replies to this topic

[Non-Ricer_Civic]

Alright, I am trying to remove my shift rod because I need to replace the bushings (it really annoys me how it feels like I'm in neutral 24/7). I bought a punch pin set, and beat on the "bitch pin" for about 30 minutes. I even removed my hood so I could stick some ratchet extensions on top of the punch and have much more swinging room, and beat on it for another good 20 minutes. Still didn't budge a bit. Is there a such thing as these seizing in the rod?

Any ideas on how to get it out? Again, I already tried a pin punch and beat on it with a hammer (rubber mallet to be exact). If all else fails, is there a way to replace the bushings WITH the shift rod connected to the tranny?

[chedda_j]

You do not need to remove that if your replacing the bushings, you can do it in the car. My kits install easy, all you need to do is grind the head off of both sides of the U-joint pins, then spread the ears a bit, and remove all the old bushings. Then install the new bushings and new hardware (bolts that replace the pins) and call it a day.

Oh and don't be like that other guy who wrecked his transmission trying to get it out.

[Non-Ricer_Civic]

You do not need to remove that if your replacing the bushings, you can do it in the car. My kits install easy, all you need to do is grind the head off of both sides of the U-joint pins

Alright, I don't understand what you mean by "head" the only head I know of on a car is the cylinder head. And as for u-joints, I was always told those are for AWD vehicles like the Wagovan (used U-joints instead of CV joints). So could I possibly talk you into explaining a little clearer (I am only 16 and have only worked around the block on intake manifold) or possibly even show me pic of what you are talking about, or even a video of the procedure?

[chedda_j]

haha ok ok.

So I don't know whether or not your purchased my bushing kit, but the U-Joint I am referring to is the one on the shift rod. This U-joint is located right behind the bitch pin you are talking about. Inside are four bushings, one on each end of the two pieces to the U-Joint. These are the ones that always wear out and cause all that shifter play. My kits eliminate this. You must grind the heads off the rivets, to get access to the bushings inside the U-Joint. You can use an angle grinder, but I used a die grinder. Then you can spread the ears of the U-Joint and pull the linkage down and out of the car. Note: you will also have to remove the shifter knob, the transmission linkage mount (large bushing) 10mm bolt, and the two bolts right below the shifter that mount the other lever to the underside of the car. Once everything is apart you can replace the square bushing with a energy suspension one, and the rest with my kit. Anyways, here is a link.

http://www.hondaauto...ry5=SHIFT+LEVER

You can see everything Im talking about.

[chedda_j]

Here's a how-to I wrote up a long time ago.

http://www.redpepper...t=0#entry514590

[Non-Ricer_Civic]

Ok, to be honest, that "write up" does not help one bit. The instructions are too vague where you could have gone more in depth to each step that needs more explaining. The shift linkage is as easy as "remove shift linkage/install bushings," in fact, the linkage isnot that easy to remove at all and some may not know how to do, I, however, do, it's just that damned spring/roll/bitch pin does not want to come out. Which is what I need help with.

[chedda_j]

Sorry, pretty much anyone with a little mechanical knowledge could figure out how to follow the instructions on my how to. I'm sorry I don't make a how to remove bitch pins for dummys haha.

[Non-Ricer_Civic]

Sorry, pretty much anyone with a little mechanical knowledge could figure out how to follow the instructions on my how to. I'm sorry I don't make a how to remove bitch pins for dummys haha.

HAHA Yep, I'm a dummy! I read on the Honda-Tech forum, that an easy way to do this is with a C-clamp, a socket (don't know exact size - this is for the pin to have a plan to go into), and an alan wrench bit or 10-12mm bolt, and you just press it out. Supposedly only takes about a minute. You'd be surprised at how much more results you get from Google when you search for "bitch pin removal" compared to "roll pin removal!" (my book calls it a roll/spring pin).

Anyway, I am helping my mom and grandma move into their a little more tomorrow morning, and will buy a 4 or 6in c-clamp and tell ya how it goes! Thanks for the help!

(I'll just replace the shifting rod with one from a junkyard that's in good shape, and instead of putting a bitch pin back in, I will use a bolt and nut)

[kedwards]

I built myself a crappy (long) tool to hammer it down from above. When you tried something similar, did you support the shft-rod from below with a floorjack or similar? That is what do.

They typically come right out this way.

Keith