2000 replies to this topic

[funkmaster]

awesome, now we just need to see them on the car!

[DEIVIONCRX]

Was the reason you used 1/2" because the lip you drilled through to mount it was only 1/2" wide?

I bought 3/4" and i think i might need to redo it in 1/2" so it will mount right.

Also what size bolts did you use to attach it to the colum support, i got m8's and i think there too big as well, theres some optical illusions with your pics i looked at 1/2 and either it was misslabled 1/4 or it just looked way tiny.

[kakabox]

Was the reason you used 1/2" because the lip you drilled through to mount it was only 1/2" wide?

Yes. I measured and found that 1/2 square tube nested in the flange nicely.

FWIW, the holes drilled through the center of the square tube into the flange have very short edge margin (dist from hole centerline to edge of flange) but didn't break out. Plenty of strength for the application.

Also what size bolts did you use to attach it to the colum support, i got m8's and i think there too big as well...

I used standard fasteners through out. Those fasteners in the pic, iirc, are size 6 8-32, standard, not metric.

[DEIVIONCRX]

Size 6 Standard?

I went and looked, i couldnt find anything standard that wasnt fractional. Ill just use the M8's there about the same size as the new 1/2" square tube should leave enough metal around the sides for me to be happy.

[kakabox]

Size 6 Standard?

I went and looked, i couldnt find anything standard that wasnt fractional. Ill just use the M8's there about the same size as the new 1/2" square tube should leave enough metal around the sides for me to be happy.

Ok...sorry, it's been a while since I made the Gauge Pod frame.

The fasteners that hold the main cross bar on are size 8-32, standard, machine screws, NOT metric...I checked the actual frame tonight. Here's one:


Any hardware store worth a kaka will stock these. Or order them through boltdepot.com, here: http://www.boltdepot...1...m=6&cd=1188

Like I previously posted, these fasteners are 6-32, standard, machine screws, NOT metric...


Any hardware store worth a kaka will also stock these. Or order them through boltdepot.com, here: http://www.boltdepot...1...m=6&cd=1187

Size M8 bolts are huge in comparison and the holes drilled in the flange will most likely break through the edge if you're mounting the crossbar where I did.


Hope this helps!

[DEIVIONCRX]

Yea im gona have to get something smaller, M4, M6 or so. My biggest problem now is wiring, do you have a pic of how you routed the wiring, i literaly just spent 5hrs fucking with it to not much avail, its either not long enough or in the way of the cluster, cover or bracket. Ive unwraped and retaped it several times, but still not much help.

[kakabox]

Yea im gona have to get something smaller, M4, M6 or so. My biggest problem now is wiring, do you have a pic of how you routed the wiring, i literaly just spent 5hrs fucking with it to not much avail, its either not long enough or in the way of the cluster, cover or bracket. Ive unwraped and retaped it several times, but still not much help.

Try using a heat gun to warm the wire harness so you can move it around better. Tie it off at several places w/tie wraps as it cools. I just worked w/what I had and "made" it work.

[kakabox]

Hood Louvers

I installed a pair of hood vents for the following reasons:
1. Relieve under hood air pressure (possible aerodynamic benefit)
2. Reduce under hood temperature
3. I think they look cool!

See...form still follows function!

I ordered the aluminum hood louvers from here: http://www.genright....?categoryID=117 ...I bought the two piece long kit, powdered coated black:

http://www.genright....ductid=LVR-1006

First I covered the hood w/painter's tape to protect the paint and to be able to draw the cutout and the fastener hole locations right on the hood:


I chose to mount the louvers on the sides because the 'voids' in engine bay are right below. My thinking is that high pressure hot air fills these areas because the engine/trans ocupies the rest of the compartment.

Using the louvers as templates, I marked the fastener holes and area of the hood to cut out. I used a 1/8" dia drill for the fastener pilot holes and drilled 3/4" holes for the corner radii of the cutouts.


Using a die grinder w/a cutoff wheel, I zipped through the hood creating two 36 in^2 open areas in the hood...



...well, they weren't quite open yet as I had to flip the hood over and cut out the hood doublers. I just carved away the portion of the doublers blocking the opening:




There, now I have 72 in^2 of open hood area!

...continued...

[kakabox]

Hood Louvers...continued

Now it was time to mount the vents. I used #8 stainless square drive screws (w/the tips ground down by the bench grinder) and 'speed nuts' instead of the 'pop' rivets that came w/the kit. The stainless fasteners match the others used throughout the Kakabox and continue the 'theme' (if you could call it that!)





To clean up my assault on the hood w/the cutoff wheel, I worked the trimmed hood doublers w/a hand file and sand paper and smoothed the rough edges and rounded all shard corners. Then I masked the area off and shot it w/rust preventive paint:




The results:




Cheers!

[strudel]

Wow, cool heating vents...er... I mean cooling vents You better go for a fast test drive and see how they work. JS

[lxndr]

That seems like alot of work for a windshield defogger.

[strudel]

That seems like alot of work for a windshield defogger.

Off topic but while you are here. Any luck with the shipment? JS

Edit: Disregard as it just popped up in the tracking system.

[Sgt. Pepper]

Awesome, it even looks faster!

[firstgencrx]

Cheers!

That's very cool! I likey!

David

[strudel]

lxndr is absolutely correct. Since you don't have any windshield wipers this new option will divert any rain and the heat will keep the glass try. Twofold solution. Good on you. See, aviation background helps a lot. JS