2000 replies to this topic

[kakabox]

That there sounds like aerospace talk to me! Another good design by Kakabox - thin-walled flight control pushrods or torque tubes almost always have inserts at the end connections.

BINGO!

Yes they do.

[strudel]

I don't believe the process! American through and through. Starting with Metric and converting to SAE. What a concept. I thought lxndr showed you where the metric bolt shop was? And I'm thinking I was crazy starting with an SAE Mini and British to boot and converting to metric. And no credits, boo hoo.

Just a question on the nut. Why welded rather than a locking mode style so that the linkage could be moved ever so much down the road if need be for better positioning? JS

[kakabox]

I don't believe the process! American through and through. Starting with Metric and converting to SAE. What a concept.
JS

Jerry,
I could not find a standard coupling nut that would fit (interference fit) tightly in the hollow OEM shift linkage rod...I have lots of different sizes in stock and not one of them fit tightly like the M10-1.50 coupling nut did (read: have to be forced in, thus making for a good pin & socket welded joint).

The re-threading the metric coupling nut was out of necessity...because the M10-1.50 coupling nut fit tightly in the hollow linkage rod and I couldn't find a metric coupling nut that would fit tightly in the u-joint like the 3/8-24 one did...therefore the need to 'convince' the metric nut to become standard so I could hook the two together w/a stud! Makes for a strong connection once welded together.

Some times you just have to think outside the box! (no pun intended)

I thought lxndr showed you where the metric bolt shop was?

Nope, it was I that showed lxndr where the metric bolt shop was (Stoneway Hardware)!

Just a question on the nut. Why welded rather than a locking mode style so that the linkage could be moved ever so much down the road if need be for better positioning?

That's a good idea...I thought of that, however, IMO, there is no way you could lock the stud from rotating due to the lever action of the shift lever...I discovered this fact when I did my mock up and did try to lock out the linkage. A couple of side-to-side swings of the shift lever (to check for neutral) instantly 'unlocked' the linkage and created so much side-to-side shift lever action that it was comical! Even if you double nutted it and used Loctite, I believe it would be only a matter of time before this connection would loosen...and it'd probably happen to me on the track or ax course and could be embarrassing in the least! I think the welded connection is stronger and safer in operation.

Cheers!

[kakabox]

^^^
...but wait, there's more:

[ramblings on]
Now, if I had a lathe, I'd just turn out a solid steel piece that would be a tight fit in the shift rod and then step down to the diameter that would fit tight in the u-joint (and I'd put a circumferential groove in this section to accommodate the u-joint's pinch bolt). And if I had a broaching tool, I'd cut splines on the u-joint side of this piece. Then you could weld this piece into the shift rod and just assemble the u-joint onto it, exactly like the factory attaches it to the steering shaft. You then could R&R the joint at the shift rod end, not at the transaxle (leaving the u-joint and 'bitch-pin' attached).

But, alas, I only have simple hand tools and a welder...oh, woe is me!

Good thing I'm 'merican and can think outside box!
[ramblings off]

[koshir]

great mod

so you're not watching TV

[strudel]

That's a good idea...I thought of that, however, IMO, there is no way you could lock the stud from rotating due to the lever action of the shift lever...I discovered this fact when I did my mock up and did try to lock out the linkage. A couple of side-to-side swings of the shift lever (to check for neutral) instantly 'unlocked' the linkage and created so much side-to-side shift lever action it was comical! Even if you double nutted it and used Loctite, I believe it would be only a matter of time before this connection would loosen...and it'd probably happen to me on the track or ax course and could be embarrassing in the least! I think the welded connection is stronger and safer in operation.

Good explanation. I was thinking how the tie rods are constructed but that is obviously only an in/out movement and no twisting. Do they not have a locking nut, right? JS

[kakabox]

Good explanation. I was thinking how the tie rods are constructed but that is obviously only an in/out movement and no twisting. Do they not have a locking nut, right? JS

Tie rod ends do have a locking nut.

[kakabox]

Rear Chassis Mounted Adjustable Stabar...Part 3

The final 'installment' of the rear chassis mounted adjustable stabar.

Part 1 is here: http://www.redpepper...e...st&p=364794
Part 2 is here: http://www.redpepper...e...st&p=367277

After receiving back the stabar arms...[I had sent them to firstgencrx who generously finished machined and re-anodized them after I wacked them down to size. They came back from David's shop looking far better than when they left mine! Thank you David!]...I was ready install the stabar.

I weighed the 22mm solid ITR bar that was previously hanging off my rear axle (unsprung weight)...9 lbs of mass...


The new stabar is mounted to the chassis, so the bar weight does not add to the rear axle's unsprung weight. The new bar (1" dia x .120" wall x 42.5" long) plus the aluminum arms weigh 4 lbs! Not only a reduction of ~9 lbs. of unsprung weight, but a ~5 lb. reduction in overall vehicle weight...kinda of a win-win if you ask me!



Ta-DA...chassis mounted adjustable rate rear stabar:







Hey, what do you know, I made it in a single post!

Cheers!

[strudel]

Great work as usual. Would this system work if there was still a muffler hanging from the rear as per normal? Or would it just be too tight of an arrangement? I would like to do something similar but don't want to really re-arrange the exhaust system again! JS

[kakabox]

Great work as usual. Would this system work if there was still a muffler hanging from the rear as per normal? Or would it just be too tight of an arrangement? I would like to do something similar but don't want to really re-arrange the exhaust system again! JS

Thanks Jerry.
You could probably make it work...take a look at Doodson's version...he uses a rear muffler:

[kakabox]

'Vintage' 13" Wheels

To go along w/my 13" race wheels/tires (Lenso 13 x 7.5 w/Kumho 215/50-13 V710 tires)...


...I picked up a set of vintage MAHLE-BBS 13 x 6 wheels (13 mm offset) from a '79 BMW 320i:




A little grungy, but they'll clean up nicely. They are light weight at 10.0 lbs. each. I plan on eventually using them as the Kakabox's street wheels. Since the Kakabox is only a fair weather car, I might mount some streetable 13" 'R' compound tires on them, such as:

Toyo Proxes RA-1 185/60-13, $117/ea http://www.edgeracing.com/tire/1116/
Toyo Proxes RA-1 205/60-13, $122/ea http://www.aimtire.c...p?ObjectID=6382
Toyo R-888, 185/60-13, $134/ea http://www.aimtire.c...p?ObjectID=6793
Hankook Ventus Z214 C70 225/45-13, $141/ea. (http://www.aimtire.c...p?ObjectID=6651
Avon ACB10 Sport DOT 195/50-13, $172/ea. http://www.aimtire.c...p?ObjectID=6682

Sadly, there's not a lot of inexpensive DOT 13" tires currently available (that I could find)...however, the Sumitomo HTR 200 in a 185/60HR13 size is apparently readily available: http://www.tirerack....num=96HR3HTR200

But, since the Kakabox already has street wheels/tires...

...'99 Miata 14 x 6 rims (w/the center machined to fit the larger Honda hubs) and Toyo 195 45 14 TR1 tires...I'll restore the BBS wheels in my spare time. No hurry.

As far as the wheel restoration goes, I chucked up a spare front knuckle in my vice and using my bench grinder motor and a spare timing belt, I made a 'wheel lathe'! It works quite nicely. I'm using the 'lathe' to clean up the slight curb rash and polish out the lips...I'll repaint the centers silver.




Cheers!

[85supersleeper]

GENIUS!!!!!!!! PURE GENIUS!!!!!!!!!! once again...you are the man.

[firstgencrx]

As far as the wheel restoration goes, I chucked up a spare front knuckle in my vice and using my bench grinder motor and a spare timing belt, I made a 'wheel lathe'! It works quite nicely. I'm using the 'lathe' to clean up the slight curb rash and polish out the lips...I'll repaint the centers silver.




Cheers!

We're going to start calling you "McGyver"!!!

[DEIVIONCRX]

The RA1's are what H1,H2 ect mandate so they have to be fairly good. I was going to try the Hankook 214's on mine when time comes to go to r-compounds.

[rollz87civic]

OOOOOOO!!!!!!! My likey