Battery Relocation, Part II?Now that the battery was mounted, I turned my attention to the re-wiring. Basically, everything connected to the oem positive terminal of the battery, is now relocated to the power post on the firewall:
That means the cable to the starter, the hazard fuse, and the white wire to the engine bay fuse links.
Seattle being a seafaring town, it's no surprise that I live close to a marine hardware supply store that sells high quality, marine grade electrical wire and supplies; I buy all my electrical hardware there. Here's all the hardware for the battery relocation:
For the positive battery cable, I used 2 gage. Is because the cable run grew from ~1 ft. to ~6 ft. I wanted to use 1 gage, however, not only was it $2/ft more, it was, of course, noticeably heavier. Here's a comparison of the oem Honda positive cable, on the left, and the 2 gage:
The new 2g cable is of a higher quality than the oem cable. It is much more flexible and is constructed using fine strands of 'tinned' wire. At $5.29/ft. it's not cheap, but it's the good stuff:
Here's how I made the battery cables. First drilling a hole in the cap of the ring terminal:
...inserting the wire and crushing the terminal on the wire w/the vice:
Then using a propane torch, I fill the cavity w/solder (the molten solder wicks into the cable strands making a strong electrical connection):
I then cover the ends w/marine grade shrink tubing (it has heat activated glue inside that bonds and seals the connection)...
...and it's done!
...wait, there's more...continued next post!
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