Damn 4 hours of reading. Looks very good. I'm very impressed with you fabrication skills. I wish I had the time and garage space to get this involved with my CRX project. It's going to be a shame to get that car dirty.
33
The Kakabox Build
Started by kakabox, Sep 23 2005 04:31 PM
2000 replies to this topic
#706
Posted 27 January 2007 - 07:01 PM
#707
Posted 27 January 2007 - 10:59 PM
QUOTE (bigk3000 @ Jan 23 2006, 07:23 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
ah yeas Kroil.. my dad gets that from work.. its an aircraft lube, penetrates 1 millionth of an inch. works pretty good .. i've never used it for cleaning tho
wow thats intriging. im a machinist, the parts i manufacture have tolerance in the tenths of thousandths... .000X. what is the decimal representation of a millionth?? and that is so tight fitting, it would have to be pressed fit.
this project looks great! im inpressed with the work that you have put into it. now i look at my 215,000 miles oil grimed si and feel all ashamed i havent cleaned her yet.
QUOTE (bigk3000 @ Jan 31 2006, 04:54 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
40 foot burnouts put a baseball sized hole in the side of my d16 transmission.. LSD diffs dont like that
damn it! i was planning on putting a lsd in my crx. open diffs dont like to dog-leg but theyll go further that way than keeping both loose for the duration.
Edited by mordantly, 27 January 2007 - 11:05 PM.
MoRdAnTlY [Mr. Wolf '91 - '11]
1987 CRX SI D15A3 Goal: <12 Sec 1/4
1987 CRX SI D15A3 Goal: <12 Sec 1/4
QUOTE (cbstdscott)
There is no replacement for displacement... but dicking with the bottom end of a Honda is not very productive. Put your energy into the head, that is where power is made.
...Dicking with the vacuum lines is not how you adjust ignition timing. That requires loosening the three bolts that hold the distributor and twisting on it.
Scott
...Dicking with the vacuum lines is not how you adjust ignition timing. That requires loosening the three bolts that hold the distributor and twisting on it.
Scott
#708
Posted 03 February 2007 - 02:55 AM
#709
Posted 03 February 2007 - 03:18 AM
Shift Linkage Rebuild/Install
Rebuilding a crusty 'teg shifter linkage and installing the Kakashortshifter:
Typical crusty, broken down, exhaust heat baked, twenty + year old 'teg shift linkage ('86-'89 'teg for the D16A1 swap):
All the little rubber and plastic bits and pieces necessary to restore the shifter to factory fresh condition are still available from Honda:
Here's where I bought the parts: http://www.hondaauto...ry5=SHIFT LEVER ...relatively inexpensive and they came right to my door!
Here's all the parts to restore the shifter:
Here's the Kakashortshifter w/the .75" extension below the shift ball to shorten the throw:
Read about how I made the short shifter here: http://www.redpepper...e...st&p=208739
After rebuilding the shifter lever, I took a tad bit of slop out of the tranny end "u-joint" by squeezing the rivets in my vice:
Then I installed an ES urethane bushing in the tranny end of the stiffening rod...first I tried pressing it in w/my fingers:
...ah, nope, the old fingers just weren't up to the task, so, I squeezed the bastard in using my vice:
...that worked!
...continued...
Rebuilding a crusty 'teg shifter linkage and installing the Kakashortshifter:
Typical crusty, broken down, exhaust heat baked, twenty + year old 'teg shift linkage ('86-'89 'teg for the D16A1 swap):
All the little rubber and plastic bits and pieces necessary to restore the shifter to factory fresh condition are still available from Honda:
Here's where I bought the parts: http://www.hondaauto...ry5=SHIFT LEVER ...relatively inexpensive and they came right to my door!
Here's all the parts to restore the shifter:
Here's the Kakashortshifter w/the .75" extension below the shift ball to shorten the throw:
Read about how I made the short shifter here: http://www.redpepper...e...st&p=208739
After rebuilding the shifter lever, I took a tad bit of slop out of the tranny end "u-joint" by squeezing the rivets in my vice:
Then I installed an ES urethane bushing in the tranny end of the stiffening rod...first I tried pressing it in w/my fingers:
...ah, nope, the old fingers just weren't up to the task, so, I squeezed the bastard in using my vice:
...that worked!
...continued...
#710
Posted 03 February 2007 - 03:19 AM
...Shifter & Linkage Install continued:
So, now the shifter and linkage was ready for install. I attached the shifter end first...
Then I brushed a little anti-seize on the infamous "bitch" pin (I used a new one here) to aid disassembly later. Using an appropriate sized pin punch and a 3 lb. mini sledge, I drove the sucker home!
Done!
The shift knob is an oem Bullitt Mustang one that I just happened to have in stock (gee, imagine that!). The shift pattern is the same as the Honda's. For the Mustang knob to fit, I cut the 'teg's shift lever, and welded in a bolt w/the same thread size/pitch as the knob:
...and just to be extra "Smurfy", I used the wiper blade hold down nuts to cover the shift linkage bolts that protruded into the interior:
Cheers!
So, now the shifter and linkage was ready for install. I attached the shifter end first...
Then I brushed a little anti-seize on the infamous "bitch" pin (I used a new one here) to aid disassembly later. Using an appropriate sized pin punch and a 3 lb. mini sledge, I drove the sucker home!
Done!
The shift knob is an oem Bullitt Mustang one that I just happened to have in stock (gee, imagine that!). The shift pattern is the same as the Honda's. For the Mustang knob to fit, I cut the 'teg's shift lever, and welded in a bolt w/the same thread size/pitch as the knob:
...and just to be extra "Smurfy", I used the wiper blade hold down nuts to cover the shift linkage bolts that protruded into the interior:
Cheers!
#711
Posted 03 February 2007 - 03:30 AM
#712
Posted 04 February 2007 - 12:55 AM
this it propbly the best trend ever, I love your project keep up the swel work!!!
#713
Posted 04 February 2007 - 09:23 AM
i have followed this thread since i joined and have read and re-read time and time again. i only wish i had a 10th of the ability you do. incredible build and super clean. you don't see too many of these cars that are put together with as much care and attention to detail
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#714
Posted 04 February 2007 - 09:50 AM
That engine reminds me of mine when I put it in the race car. It was so sad to see it get dirtier and dirtier as time went by!
#715
Posted 04 February 2007 - 12:31 PM
QUOTE (Maine_Honda_Racer @ Feb 4 2007, 06:50 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
That engine reminds me of mine when I put it in the race car. It was so sad to see it get dirtier and dirtier as time went by!
I bet you had fun getting it dirty though!
Thanks for the compliments guys.
#716
Posted 04 February 2007 - 08:31 PM
sorry if i missed this part, but i also got rid of my brake booster what did you do to the vacuum on the intake?
#717
Posted 06 February 2007 - 12:17 AM
QUOTE (DSK 86CRX @ Feb 4 2007, 05:31 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
sorry if i missed this part, but i also got rid of my brake booster what did you do to the vacuum on the intake?
I removed the brake booster's vacuum port from of the intake mani (twist and pull)...
...and installed a 1/4 NPT allen head plug:
I just brushed thread sealant on the plug and screwed it in...it cut it's own threads.
#718
Posted 06 February 2007 - 01:27 PM
what was that vacuum port for? and this thread is awsome..what do you think the breaking will be like without the booster?
#719
Posted 06 February 2007 - 03:45 PM
QUOTE (fritt @ Feb 6 2007, 10:27 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
what was that vacuum port for? and this thread is awsome..what do you think the breaking will be like without the booster?
Port was for the brake booster vacuum line. The brakes will perform better than oem (due to the 'teg swap's larger front rotors) with a stiffer than oem pedal (w/more feel) requiring a little more leg effort than oem (due to lack of vacuum assist, i.e., no booster).
Thanks.
#720
Posted 06 February 2007 - 03:51 PM
have you considered swapping the 7/8" teg master cylinder for a G3teg 15/16" or 1"? my 7/8" is not in great shape, and I have been thinking about going up a size or two.
wes g.