2000 replies to this topic

[catch22]

I just spent two hours reading this thread ... great man !!

Are you kidding me Moose. I just spent the last two nights, multiple hours each night, reading each post and making notes. I need a faster computer! I must agree with all of those before me, this is the single most info packed and well documented thread I've seen. I couldn't thank you enough for not only the time effort and love you've put into the work and fab on the kakabox. Not only that but all of the additional time and effort that you've put into your posts and pics here for all of us to enjoy and learn from. I wish you continued success in your build and a happy new year. I also look forward to hearing about your continued seat time education, "in the box". I get the idea that we are just about as excited as you are to see this, battlebox, being driven in anger out on course or on track. Notice that I didn't say completion of this build, I know the kakabox will never really be finished.

Looking forward to following along with the rest of the build, keep up the great work and thanks again.

Jason

Edited by catch22, 06 May 2007 - 07:45 PM.

[kakabox]

Engine Mount Mod for D16A1 Swap:

The 1/3g driver's side engine mount must be modified in order to install the D16A1 engine. The D16's twin cam timing cover interfere's w/the lhs engine mount...the aft facing, upstanding flange must be trimmed down in order to clear the cover.

I was going to just use the engine mount from lxndr's drivetrain I bought; it was already trimmed for a D16...but, I guess he did one too many 6000 RPM clutch dumps...his mount was done!


So, instead of dealing w/20 year old junk yard parts, I bought a new one:

$52.08; http://www.hondaauto...y5=ENGINE MOUNT

On the new mount, I layed out the area to be removed:


...drilled a 1/2" diameter hole for a nice radius:


...then cut the flange away w/a hacksaw:



...smoothed out the cut w/a 80 grit sanding roll:


Done!


Here's the modified 1/3g lhs mount (on the left) compared w/an unmodified oem one...also shown is the piece cut out of the flange:


Getting closer!

Cheers!

[strudel]

That is the usual way of correcting the problem. I may not have shaved mine enough as I was concerned about reducing strength. The problem that occurred is that if you have to take the bottom timing cover off it was difficult to put it back in easily without removing the engine mount to do so. I guess that is a small price to pay but still a pain with the extra work involved. FWIW. JS

[lxndr]

JS,
My old mount had about the same amount of material removed as Kaka's new mount (as seen in the first pic). It was tight, but without removing the mount I was still able to remove the timing cover with minimal cursing. IMHO, even with this large notch in the mount it will still be strong enough to handle your 250HP goal (especially with the 1/2" radius and smoothed edges). Under load the motor will want to tilt back in the engine bay, essentially pulling up on the front motor mount. Because of this I think the rubber in the mount will fail long before the notch will (as evidenced by the pic of my old mount). You might consider welding in a small support bracket on top of the mount for added strength, but I think this would be overkill.

BTW I was trying to burn up my 17" tires so I could justify disposing of them, this is probably how I mangled the front motor mount.

Edited by lxndr, 06 January 2007 - 01:58 PM.

[kakabox]

That is the usual way of correcting the problem. I may not have shaved mine enough as I was concerned about reducing strength. The problem that occurred is that if you have to take the bottom timing cover off it was difficult to put it back in easily without removing the engine mount to do so. I guess that is a small price to pay but still a pain with the extra work involved. FWIW. JS

This mount is way over designed for the in-service loading it sees. IMO, the reduction in area of this gusset will have no effect in it's strength or durability. You could trim this flange completely away and it would have no effect w/the in-service strength and/or longevity of the mount; the rubber biscuit will fail long before the mount will. Even if you filled the mount w/urethane, there still exists two large, gussets that, imo, would provide ample strength for the in-service vertical and torsional loads.

This is not a painful mod to do...it's easy and takes <1 hr. using common hand tools. Take your time, smooth all rough edges, paint it black after your done and "Bob's your Uncle"!

Cheers!

[gtigilbert]

i cut the rubber out where i could barely hamer two hockey pucks in there but that might be TO MUCH rattle.

Edited by gtigilbert, 07 January 2007 - 12:07 AM.

[bigk3000]

Limited Slip Differential (LSD) Install:

For the '89 Integra 5 spd the Kakabox will use, I bought a 'Torsen' style LSD by OBX. The '90-'94 Integra (non-GSR or ITR) or '99-'00 Civic Si OBX LSD will work...I bought the '99 Civic Si version:

I had read that using this LSD may or may not require clearancing the trans case...here's what I found...

Unfortunately to install the LSD you have to take the entire transmission apart...this is easy enough to do w/the FSM as a guide and lxndr supervising (thanks lxndr!)


Once the oem diff was out, I had to remove the speedometer drive gear and ring gear to use on the OBX LSD (the diff does not come w/a ring gear, speedo gear, or bearings):


Note: the ring gear bolts are lh thread, so, adjust the wrench accordingly!


Here are all the parts to be transferred to the LSD:


I used new diff bearings:


I installed the speedo gear then the ring gear:


...finally the bearings:


There was no interference what-so-ever installing the LSD into the diff housing...BUT, installing the diff into the trans housing had the diff bolt heads interferring w/the case ribs:




...continued...

this brings back some memories... Long time no see! The car seems to be comming along great. Im really starting to miss my civic, but not rpr so much..... I've noticed a lot more NOOBS asking stupid questions.

keep up the good work man

[kakabox]

ARP Long Stud Install

In case I ever use wheel spacers, and since 'real' racecars wear long studs ...I decided to install some ARP wheel studs...the 1" longer than oem versions. Did I mention that they are also stronger than oem studs? I bought them here: http://www.tunerscho.../qx/Product.htm

I bought the 1" longer than oem studs:


I have several sets of front 'teg knuckle/hubs...I'm installing these studs in a pair that I'll be replacing the wheel bearing in. First I knocked out the hub by using a 27 mm impact socket and hammered out the hub from the knuckle:


The 27mm socket is big enough to engage the hub's cylinder that the inner race of the bearing rides on, but small enough to just slip through the ID of the wheel bearing. One half of the bearing's inner race is left behind on the hub. I used a bearing separator I bought at Harbour Freight to pull that off:


After I removed the snap ring from the knuckle...


...I used a 1 7/16" socket to knock out the wheel bearing from the hub:


I'll cover installing the bearings in a future post; I'm waiting for the parts. Anyway, on w/the ARP stud install.

I securely supported the hub and knocked out the oem studs w/a hammer:


Using a 27mm deep well socket (to protect the threads) and a smooth 1/4" steel plate (I didn't want to leave the vice jaw marks on the fastener heads!), I used my vice to press the new studs in:


Front hubs done:


I removed the rear hubs and knocked out and pressed in the ARP studs the same way...


Cheers!

[D Jaws II]

Kakabox Said:

"ARP Long Stud Install

In case I ever use wheel spacers, and since 'real' racecars wear long studs ...I decided to install some ARP wheel studs...the 1" longer than oem versions. Did I mention that they are also stronger than oem studs? etc, etc. "




J,

Very nice work, as usual. Fantastic documentation, as usual. Looks like your still up to your same stuff.


Cheers,


Donnie

[DarkHand]

That's the reason I'm gonna plunk down some dough for a smallish 6 ton shop press... I'm just not sure where I'm going to put it! I've added about half a machine shop to my tiny one-car garage as it is... Next I've got a 220v air compressor and the press to find space for.

Edited by DarkHand, 08 January 2007 - 10:25 AM.

[kakabox]

Jet Hot Header Coating:

Purchasing lxndr's entire "performance built" D16A1 blacktop drivetrain netted me a DC Sports Header and down tube...



NOTE: This is not a D16A1 header; I'll let lxndr tell you what it is:

an 88+ SOHC D-series header. I had to enongate all 9 flange holes to match the D16A1 pattern. There are 4 "opened up" holes because there was so little material left on the flange after elongating that I decided to just stot the holes instead. BTW, if the holes are not elongated the ports will be about 5mm out of alignment which will hinder exhaust flow. A B-series header will not work at all on any D-series since the port spacing is much too wide.

Albeit solid and functional, the header and down pipe were a little crusty in appearance, so, I contacted Jet Hot coatings for an estimate to ceramic coat the header and down pipe.

http://www.jet-hot.c...ages/tech2.html

I've done business w/them before; they coated my other hobby car's valve covers, and X-pipe using their 1300 Sterling finish. I was very pleased w/the service and the performance of their 1300 Sterling coating.

For coating the Kakabox's header & down pipe, here's what Jet Hot had to say:

We'd charge $165 to coat your header in the 1300 Sterling finish, and $15 per foot for the down pipe. Add $20 for the matte black, blue, grey or copper finish. The gloss black is $50 additional and has an 1100 deg F tolerance. We'll need them here for 5 days plus shipping time back. If the parts are chrome or nickel plated, add $40 to the total and 2 days for stripping. Return shipping would be about $27.

Technical benefits for the 1300 Sterling are as follows: Looks great, reduces under-hood temperatures by 50 degrees Fahrenheit and more, keeps pipes about 300 degs F cooler, gives you 1-3% extra horsepower, extends average header life by at least 10 times, and improves safety in an accident by reducing the probability of fire-balling. It is also very easy to keep clean. If you use one of the other 1300 colors, they perform as well, but are not as cleanable.

If you upgrade to the EXTREME STERLING you get a coating that will stay shiny 200 degs F higher than Sterling, and take a maximum temperature of 1700 deg F, though it does have an orange-peel texture compared to 1300 Sterling. It will also provide an estimated 100 deg F more of insulation and carries a 5 year warranty. It is recommended for low boost turbo and supercharged vehicles, and lean running EFI cars. Cost is $50 more, and takes an extra 2-3 days to process.

Finally we offer JET-HOT 2000. It does not provide as much insulation as the 1300 Sterling, but this coating can take temperatures up to 2400 degrees. The 2000 only comes in a flat black, blue or grey finish and has a rough texture on the outside(like 150 grit sandpaper). The Jet Hot 2000 runs $100 more than the sterling silver finish. This coating takes 2 days longer than the sterling silver process. We suggest JET-HOT 2000 for set ups with large shots of nitrous, high boost turbo and superchargers, motorhomes and towing vehicles.

Their claim of under hood temperature reductions are real; my other V8 powered hobby car's Jet Hot coated headers and X-pipe ran noticable cooler. However, the claim of horsepower increase due to better thermal efficiency while in theory is plausible, it probably could only be measured/noticed on a dyno.

All you do is box up whatever you want to have coated along w/your coating request estimate...you don't have to clean or prep the parts in any way:

JET-HOT uses expensive aluminum oxide to clean components. We don't use sand like others.

The parts are coated inside and out; much better than aftermarket ceramic coated headers:

JET-HOT applies two exterior coatings and two interior coatings and not just one layer as everyone else does.

You just box 'em up...


...and ship 'em out:


Cheers!

...oh yeah, I also boxed up the 20 year old fuel injectors and sent them to Marren Fuel Injection:

http://www.injector....103a152e3c7b45a

...for balancing and blueprinting.

[rollz87civic]

what color is the header going 2 be?

[lxndr]

Just to calrify, it's a 88+ D-series SOHC header and I had to elongate all 9 flange holes to match the D16A1 pattern. There are 4 "opened up" holes because there was so little material left on the flange after elongating that I decided to just slot the holes instead. BTW, if the holes are not elongated the ports will be about 5mm out of alignment which will hinder exhaust flow. A B-series header will not work at all on any D-series since the port spacing is much too wide.

Edited for fact correction and spelling errors (I really should stop posting at 2:00am).

Edited by lxndr, 14 January 2007 - 07:06 PM.

[strudel]

Just to calrify, it's a 88+ D-series header and I had to enongate all 9 flange holes to match the D16A1 pattern. There are 4 "opened up" holes because there was so little material left on the flange after elongating that I decided to just stot the holes instead. BTW, if the holes are not elongated the ports will be about 5mm out of alignment which will hinder exhaust flow. A B-series header will not work at all on any D-series since the port spacing is much too wide.

lxndr,
A clarification of the clarification please? When you say 88+ D series did you mean the D16A1 (88-89) or ANY 88+ D series engine which has SOHC versions? Obviously the latter as you had to fudge the holes! Doh! Any mounting issues on the bottom end of the engine or any other quirks? JS

[kakabox]

Just to calrify, it's a 88+ D-series header and I had to enongate all 9 flange holes to match the D16A1 pattern. There are 4 "opened up" holes because there was so little material left on the flange after elongating that I decided to just stot the holes instead. BTW, if the holes are not elongated the ports will be about 5mm out of alignment which will hinder exhaust flow. A B-series header will not work at all on any D-series since the port spacing is much too wide.

Thanks lxndr...I couldn't quite remember what Honda motor you told me they came from and what exactly you did to them to make them fit. However, I did know you'd correct me if I got it wrong!

Also, I do remember you have to "stick" the manifold gasket on the header flange w/a little gasket tack to ensure that the gasket is not covering the ports on the engine when you mount it.

Thanks for watching my back 'xndr! I've corrected the original post.

Cheers!