2000 replies to this topic

[D Jaws II]

Yes, I concur!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Have a great Vacation, you lucky dog.

Hole up after vacation, hmmmmm, I need to try that instead of during.

giggles

Next thing we'll see is a "Wish you were here" picture. sigh


Donnie

[kakabox]

Have a great Vacation, you lucky dog. 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thank you!...but, hold on now, I'm not gone yet!

The 'teg rear brakes and e-brake cable are on!

Here's the '89 'teg rear calipers/rotors attached...now where'd I hide those pads?


...I also hooked up the 'teg e-brake cable (what a pita!)...it attaches to the bracket on the 'teg calipers:


...but the 'teg e-brake cables are longer than the Si's drum versions, so, some mods have to be made. The first thing I did was to slide the rubber cable fitting down the cable to match the location of the threaded mount hole in the frame rail. I also added a 3/16" spacer to move it away from the control arm bolt head:


The 'teg e-brake cables also have an extra rubber mount on each side. On my 3g, I didn't have anywhere for these to attach so I sliced them off w/a razor knife:


Also, the metal brackets...


...that go around the metal sleeve on the cable had to be moved 'downstream' to attach to the 3g mount locn; left side:


... and right side:


The 'teg e-brake cables are too long for the 3g chassis, so, to use up some of the cable length, I put the left side cable through the right side hole and vice versa. You can't use the oem cable bracket that normal goes here when you do that. Deleting that bracket appears to have no effect on the e-brake function:


...the cable are just switched around at the e-brake:


The e-brake cables are a pita to install, imo...make sure you're wearing eye protection when installing it; a lot of debris falls off the underside of the car into your face when you're wrestling the 'snakes' (on a plane)!

Cheers!

[Richard]

your the first person i know of to cross the lines for the length issue, a congrats to you on that one, ill need it when i swap my brakes in a little bit.

have fun, dont get laid (s?) too much in hawaii

[kakabox]

Polycarbonate Rear Quarter Window Install (Part 2)

In the Spring I removed the rear quarter windows, made a template and made polycarbonate windows, but never installed them. I hadn't painted the floor yet and didn't want to get sanding dust and/or overspray on them...here's Part 1 of the quarter window build: http://www.redpepper...ndpost&p=252354

Welp, since the floor is now painted, it was time to install said polycarbonate quarter windows. First I pulled back the protective film on the inside of each window and masked a ~1" perimeter band around the window. This is only on the inside...I then scuffed up the exposed poly w/Scotch Brite...


...and painted the scuffed area matte black. When view from the outside of the car, the black will show through as gloss. Painting it this way creates a nice black perimeter 'frame'


I used rubber foam tape as a gasket betwn the quarter window cutout flange and the poly window:



...then installed the new windows...




I used stainless steel button head bolts (size 8) instead of rivets for easy remove & replace:


...and stainless steel nyloc nuts on the inside


I drilled oversized holes, in the poly windows, to allow for expansion and contraction w/temperature changes. This should help prevent cracking out the holes. To that end, I also tightened the nuts only until the washer under the head stopped moving; I wanted the windows to be able to 'float' a bit, but still be sealed.

Ok, there, that's done...!

Cheers!

[onefasthondacrx]

Why is the proportioning valve so much bigger than the crx one?

[toxicshit]

nice job on the windows !!

Greetings Erwin.

[crxls]

The Integra pp valve is valved to supply the rear circuit w/more fluid pressure.  The 'teggy's rear disc brake calipers require more line pressure, to function properly, than the 1/3g wheel cylinders do.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

my understanding of this is the opposite. i thought that if you put the teg rear brakes on but didnt change the prop valve you would have too much braking power to the rear which causes rear wheel lockup. reasoning behind this being that it takes less pressure to efficiently work a caliper than a wheel cylindar.

for example: my brothers 94 hatch. someone swapped from rear drum to disc and his brakes are really touchy, too much braking and the rear wheels lock up like nothing. quite dangerous actually.

[onefasthondacrx]

Guys, I'm still confused. I didn't mean bigger as to the fluid that runs though it, i know all of that. I meant the crx pp valve is just the small "Y" fitting on the passenger side right? Now the teg one, has twice the lines running to it and its huge? I think its because it piping in for security incase you blow a line or something. Help me out, I'm very confused.

[kakabox]

Guys, I'm still confused.  I didn't mean bigger as to the fluid that runs though it, i know all of that.  I meant the crx pp valve is just the small "Y" fitting on the passenger side right? Now the teg one, has twice the lines running to it and its huge? I think its because it piping in for security incase you blow a line or something. Help me out, I'm very confused.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

AFAIK the 1/3g pp valves are the same externally as the 1g 'tegs. The 'teg's are valved for the rear disc calipers...same external dimensions and line fitting locns, just different internal valving.

The oem 3g pp valve is on the right...'86-'89 'teg pp valve is on the left:

[onefasthondacrx]

Wow, ok i feel like an idiot now. I was sure the 'Teg and crx pp valves were way different, goes to show how often I go under the hood of my car.lol. Thanks.

[kakabox]

Back in the Saddle Again!

I did a little research and purchasing while on vacation!

The KAKABOX needed seats, and, for the driver at least, a decent harness. I found an excellent web site that caters to ax racers: http://www.soloracer.com/ ...they carry Corbeau and Sparco seats, harnesses and offer FREE shipping.

For the driver's seat, I order a Corbeau FX1 Pro seat. One piece, fiberglass composite, removable cushions, 16 lbs, bottom or side mount...black on black...this one:

http://www.soloracer...beaufx1pro.html

...and for the passenger, well, nothing but the best for the co-pilot:

http://store.summitr...15&autoview=sku

...it's a Summit Racing Polyethylene Special: light weight (13 lbs.), durable, and CHEAP! I didn't even order a cover for it; I'm going to just run it naked! It may be plastic, but it's better than an apple crate! ...and, it's not like I'll have passengers riding w/me...maybe just a driving instructor or two!

I was going to order a 5 point harness (lap/shoulders/anti-dive) for the driver's side, but, I still intend to drive the KAKABOX on the street to events and to work occasionally, and using a full race style 4 or 5 point harness is a pita to use on the street or every minute or two after an ax run. So, while looking on http://www.soloracer.com/ for harnesses, I discovered the Schroth harnesses: DOT approved for street use (even has a label stating such), provides lateral restraint like a race harness, and, best of all: "they easily mount to stock seatbelt mounting points, so there are no holes to drill and no modifications to your car in any way. They are also VERY easy to get in and out of, which is handy at an autocross where you will be getting in and out of your car several times."

Read all about them here: http://www.soloracer...schrothfaq.html

So, I ordered the Black (w/silver "SCHROTH") Schroth Rallye 4 harness for the driver.
http://www.soloracer.com/rallye4.html

The passenger, will have to make due w/the factory belts.

To fit in the KAKABOX, both seats will require custom seat brackets to be fabbed. I'll do a write up w/pics covering that in the near future!

Cheers!

[toxicshit]

a friend of mine has those shroth seatbelts they are verry good !!

[1gcvcb18]

Those seats will look nice in the kakabox. Great project man you have inspired me to do one of my own.

[kakabox]

Just received the Corbeau FX1 Pro driver's seat (FedEx delivers on Saturday)


...nice to look at ...comfortable to sit in ...good quality construction (fiberglass composite one piece shell) ...has both side and bottom mount reinforcements w/potted nuts ... light weight (16 lbs.) ...removable seat cushions (for replacement or upgrades)

But, the seat back is WAY too flexible for my tastes!

I never planned on adding a seat back brace to my 'B' pillar truss and w/o one, this seat feels like a wet noodle. Sure, the seat holds you in, but, since the seat is so flexible (w/o the back brace) you end up swaying around anyway as it flexes...I'm not a happy camper ...it's going back. In a competition seat, I like a more rigid seat shell. Expensive mistake as I'll lose 15% (restocking) + shipping costs. DOH! I hate it when I make $toopid mi$take$ like that! Live and learn. Hopefully this information will help someone else avoid making the same mistake.

I should of went w/my first instinct which was just to order another driver's seat like the ones I use in my other hobby car: UltraShield's 'Rally Sport' aluminum race seat custom made to my hip dimensions. Constructed from .125" 5052 grade aluminum with hardened aluminum extrusion welded around the perimeter of the seat and seat belt holes. Strong, light (14 lbs.), and stiff (they don't require a seat back brace); they're about the same $$'s ($245 + ~ 35 s/h) as the Corbeau. http://www.ultrashie...m/prod.php?id=8




They take a little practice getting in and out of, but it's not too bad for an old man like myself. They support and brace you very well, however, they are as comfortable as they look, so, you might have to stop and take a break or two driving cross country!

Cheers!

[toxicshit]

Just received the Corbeau FX1 Pro driver's seat (FedEx delivers on Saturday)


...nice to look at  ...comfortable to sit in  ...good quality construction (fiberglass composite one piece shell)  ...has both side and bottom mount reinforcements w/potted nuts  ... light weight (16 lbs.)  ...removable seat cushions (for replacement or upgrades) 

But, the seat back is WAY too flexible for my tastes! 

I never planned on adding a seat back brace to my 'B' pillar truss and w/o one, this seat feels like a wet noodle.  Sure, the seat holds you in the seat, but, since the seat is so flexible (w/o the back brace) you end up swaying around anyway as it flexes...I'm not a happy camper  ...it's going back.  In a competition seat, I like a more rigid seat shell.  Expensive mistake as I'll lose 15% (restocking) + shipping costs.  DOH!    I hate it when I make $toopid mi$take$  like that!  Live and learn.  Hopefully this information will help someone else avoid making the same mistake.

I should of went w/my first instinct which was just to order another driver's seat like the ones I use in my other hobby car: UltraShield's 'Rally Sport' aluminum race seat custom made to my hip dimensions.  Constructed from .125" 5052 grade aluminum with hardened aluminum extrusion welded around the perimeter of the seat and seat belt holes.  Strong, light (14 lbs.), and stiff (they don't require a seat back brace); they're about the same $$'s ($245 + ~ 35 s/h) as the Corbeau.  http://www.ultrashie...m/prod.php?id=8




They take a little practice getting in and out of, but it's not too bad for an old man like myself.      They support and brace you very well, however, they are as comfortable as they look, so, you might have to stop and take a break or two driving cross country!     

Cheers!  

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Damn never knew they sold that kind of nice seats.. have to call and ask what shipping etc to the netherlands costs. ive just sold my ITR Recaros and i was now looking for a nice bucket that i could mount to the floor.

looks like a nice seat J . can you make a picture of the underside of the seat and the mounting points etc ?

Greetings Erwin.