Integra Radius Arms:
Using 1g 'teg radius arms on your 1/3g front suspension will increase the car's negative camber...here's why. The ball joint portion of the radius arm outbd of the lower arm bolt extends outbd ~1/4 to 5/16" more than the 1/3g cars. This moves the lower portion of the knuckle 1/4" to 5/16" outbd relative to the top of the strut, hence, increasing negative camber. IIRC, the camber gain is ~1 deg negative.
...the 'teg radius arm is on the right; '86 Si on the left:
I installed delrin radius arm bushings I bought from bamcrxgp on the 'teg arms:
Cheers!
33
The Kakabox Build
Started by kakabox, Sep 23 2005 04:31 PM
2000 replies to this topic
#661
Posted 24 December 2006 - 04:47 AM
#662
Posted 28 December 2006 - 12:15 AM
I installed a 2wd 3g Wagon front stabar for more roll stiffness. The Wagon front stabar is 20mm vs. the 3g Si's 18mm (the Si bar is the one in the back):
I also installed a HF steering rack which has a slightly quicker ratio then the 3g Si's (3.55 turns lock-to-lock HF vs. 3.89 for the Si):
...added new tie rod ends too:
The Kakabox is now ready and waiting for the Tein suspension kit!
Cheers!
I also installed a HF steering rack which has a slightly quicker ratio then the 3g Si's (3.55 turns lock-to-lock HF vs. 3.89 for the Si):
...added new tie rod ends too:
The Kakabox is now ready and waiting for the Tein suspension kit!
Cheers!
#663
Posted 28 December 2006 - 02:54 AM
#664
Posted 31 December 2006 - 03:42 AM
Limited Slip Differential (LSD) Install:
For the '89 Integra 5 spd the Kakabox will use, I bought a 'Torsen' style LSD by OBX. The '90-'94 Integra (non-GSR or ITR) or '99-'00 Civic Si OBX LSD will work...I bought the '99 Civic Si version: http://www.sparktecm...xls99hocis.html
I had read that using this LSD may or may not require clearancing the trans case...here's what I found...
Unfortunately to install the LSD you have to take the entire transmission apart...this is easy enough to do w/the FSM as a guide and lxndr supervising (thanks lxndr!)
Once the oem diff was out, I had to remove the speedometer drive gear and ring gear to use on the OBX LSD (the diff does not come w/a ring gear, speedo gear, or bearings):
Note: the ring gear bolts are lh thread, so, adjust the wrench accordingly!
Here are all the parts to be transferred to the LSD:
I used new diff bearings:
I installed the speedo gear then the ring gear:
...finally the bearings:
There was no interference what-so-ever installing the LSD into the diff housing...BUT, installing the diff into the trans housing had the diff bolt heads interferring w/the case ribs:
...continued...
For the '89 Integra 5 spd the Kakabox will use, I bought a 'Torsen' style LSD by OBX. The '90-'94 Integra (non-GSR or ITR) or '99-'00 Civic Si OBX LSD will work...I bought the '99 Civic Si version: http://www.sparktecm...xls99hocis.html
I had read that using this LSD may or may not require clearancing the trans case...here's what I found...
Unfortunately to install the LSD you have to take the entire transmission apart...this is easy enough to do w/the FSM as a guide and lxndr supervising (thanks lxndr!)
Once the oem diff was out, I had to remove the speedometer drive gear and ring gear to use on the OBX LSD (the diff does not come w/a ring gear, speedo gear, or bearings):
Note: the ring gear bolts are lh thread, so, adjust the wrench accordingly!
Here are all the parts to be transferred to the LSD:
I used new diff bearings:
I installed the speedo gear then the ring gear:
...finally the bearings:
There was no interference what-so-ever installing the LSD into the diff housing...BUT, installing the diff into the trans housing had the diff bolt heads interferring w/the case ribs:
...continued...
- MinkelR likes this
#665
Posted 31 December 2006 - 03:44 AM
OBX LSD Install continued...
The OBX diff bolt heads...
...interfered here:
...and here (the black painted areas need to be ground down):
So, I broke out the die grinder and shaved the ribs:
...then smoothed out the clearanced area w/a sanding roll:
No more interference!
Once all the grinding and sanding was done, the case required cleaning in the solvent tank:
Then, I replaced every oil seal w/new oem ones, cleaned and inspected every gear, syncro, and whatever...again w/lxndr's expert assistance, the trans was re-assembled:
The LSD install is done...ready for the 'Accord' 5th gear swap!
Cheers!
The OBX diff bolt heads...
...interfered here:
...and here (the black painted areas need to be ground down):
So, I broke out the die grinder and shaved the ribs:
...then smoothed out the clearanced area w/a sanding roll:
No more interference!
Once all the grinding and sanding was done, the case required cleaning in the solvent tank:
Then, I replaced every oil seal w/new oem ones, cleaned and inspected every gear, syncro, and whatever...again w/lxndr's expert assistance, the trans was re-assembled:
The LSD install is done...ready for the 'Accord' 5th gear swap!
Cheers!
#666
Posted 31 December 2006 - 04:05 AM
#667
Posted 31 December 2006 - 12:06 PM
that is sweet info, now i guess that i have to find a sponsor for one in my comming rallycar. but i still cant figure out how obx can be so sheap compared to quaife...
#668
Posted 31 December 2006 - 01:24 PM
if its not all bolted together, please go back and re-torque every bolt on the OBX LSD, ive herd that they didnt get torqued right from the factory
#669
Posted 31 December 2006 - 02:46 PM
'87 Accord 5th Gear Install:
To allow for a more relaxed drive to track/ax events I decided to install an Accord 5th gear. Lxndr had pulled the 5th main and counter gear setup from a '87 Accord 5sp at Pull-A-Part and installed it in the 'teg 5 speed he ran in his 1g CRX. I fell heir to it when I bought the entire drivetrain from his 'rex.
The Accord 5th gear reduces the engine RPM in 5th...this allows for a more relaxed cruise to the track. Although I've never used 5th at a track/ax event, if I do, it will also allow for a higher top speed. However, just to be clear, I mainly did the swap because I had the gears and I was already into the tranny ...otherwise I would of just used the oem 5th gear that came in the 'teg tranny. Here's a side-by-side comparison of the oem '89 'teg 5th gears vs. the '87 Accord (main gear on top, counter shaft gear bottom):
You can do the swap w/the tranny in the car (I've done it before on my 1g 'rex)...but it's infinitely easier w/the tranny out!
Remove the end cover, bend the locking tabs (nut flanges) out of the slots in the main and countershafts, and install the mainshaft holder or do the following to remove the locknuts: I used a trick from lxndr's big bag 'o tricks: using a common plastic screw cap from a water bottle, wedge it btwn the counter and main gears...using a impact wrench w/a 30mm socket I zipped off the mainshaft nut (lh thread) and the countershaft nut (rh thread)...the plastic cap just wedges itself inbtwn the gears, stopping the shafts from spinning. That 'xndr's a tricky fellow!
Drive out the spring pin securing the 5th gear shift fork to the main shaft. Remove the mainshaft 5th, shift fork, synchro, hub, ring and spring as a unit. Remove the countershaft 5th gear...this is what you'll have:
Reverse the process replacing the oem gears w/the Accord gears. Torque the main and countershaft locknuts to 65 lb-ft, then loosen and re-torque to 65 lb-ft. Holding the mainshaft from rotating proved problematic when tightening...the lxndr bottle cap trick did not work this time because the helical cut of the gears just "spit" out the cap when tightening, not wedging itself and stopping rotation. So, I had to come up w/a less ghetto mainshaft holder. I used a clutch disc and stuck a large screwdriver through the hub and wedged it against the case ribs...like so:
I recruited my wife to work the torque wrench while I held the screwdriver and tranny case from rotating...the 'Mrs.' torqued, loosened, and re-torqued the locknuts to the FSM torque spec of 65 lb-ft. Thanks 'hun!
Then stake the locknut shoulders into the main and countershaft slots...done:
IIRC, the Accord 5th gear swap reduces the engine RPM at 60 mph in 5th by ~500 RPM's.
Cheers!
To allow for a more relaxed drive to track/ax events I decided to install an Accord 5th gear. Lxndr had pulled the 5th main and counter gear setup from a '87 Accord 5sp at Pull-A-Part and installed it in the 'teg 5 speed he ran in his 1g CRX. I fell heir to it when I bought the entire drivetrain from his 'rex.
The Accord 5th gear reduces the engine RPM in 5th...this allows for a more relaxed cruise to the track. Although I've never used 5th at a track/ax event, if I do, it will also allow for a higher top speed. However, just to be clear, I mainly did the swap because I had the gears and I was already into the tranny ...otherwise I would of just used the oem 5th gear that came in the 'teg tranny. Here's a side-by-side comparison of the oem '89 'teg 5th gears vs. the '87 Accord (main gear on top, counter shaft gear bottom):
You can do the swap w/the tranny in the car (I've done it before on my 1g 'rex)...but it's infinitely easier w/the tranny out!
Remove the end cover, bend the locking tabs (nut flanges) out of the slots in the main and countershafts, and install the mainshaft holder or do the following to remove the locknuts: I used a trick from lxndr's big bag 'o tricks: using a common plastic screw cap from a water bottle, wedge it btwn the counter and main gears...using a impact wrench w/a 30mm socket I zipped off the mainshaft nut (lh thread) and the countershaft nut (rh thread)...the plastic cap just wedges itself inbtwn the gears, stopping the shafts from spinning. That 'xndr's a tricky fellow!
Drive out the spring pin securing the 5th gear shift fork to the main shaft. Remove the mainshaft 5th, shift fork, synchro, hub, ring and spring as a unit. Remove the countershaft 5th gear...this is what you'll have:
Reverse the process replacing the oem gears w/the Accord gears. Torque the main and countershaft locknuts to 65 lb-ft, then loosen and re-torque to 65 lb-ft. Holding the mainshaft from rotating proved problematic when tightening...the lxndr bottle cap trick did not work this time because the helical cut of the gears just "spit" out the cap when tightening, not wedging itself and stopping rotation. So, I had to come up w/a less ghetto mainshaft holder. I used a clutch disc and stuck a large screwdriver through the hub and wedged it against the case ribs...like so:
I recruited my wife to work the torque wrench while I held the screwdriver and tranny case from rotating...the 'Mrs.' torqued, loosened, and re-torqued the locknuts to the FSM torque spec of 65 lb-ft. Thanks 'hun!
Then stake the locknut shoulders into the main and countershaft slots...done:
IIRC, the Accord 5th gear swap reduces the engine RPM at 60 mph in 5th by ~500 RPM's.
Cheers!
#670
Posted 31 December 2006 - 05:14 PM
Looks great!
When I was using this 5th gear, my engine would hold steady at about 2,500 RPM at 60 MPH. This gear also allowed me to average 32 MPG during normal in-town and freeway commuting with a performance built D16A1.
While researching my tranny build and trying to find out if I could swap in different gear ratios, I came across a 3G Accord website that was very informative (unfortunately this was years ago and I have since lost the link). I found that some Accord guys swap all the Integra tranny internals into their tranny case but they retain the stock 5th gear for better gas mileage. Since I never found a better 1st-4th gear ratio that would swap right in, I figured I'd at least swap in the Accord 5th gear.
To anyone attempting a 3G Accord ('86-'89) 5th gear swap:
In addition to your usual metric socket set, you will need a 30mm socket, a breaker bar, a hammer, a set of punches, and a plastic bottle cap to wedge between the gears. Just to make it clear, the main shaft nut is a left hand thread (this confused the heck out of me when pulling a 5th for the first time out of a junk yard car).
When I was using this 5th gear, my engine would hold steady at about 2,500 RPM at 60 MPH. This gear also allowed me to average 32 MPG during normal in-town and freeway commuting with a performance built D16A1.
While researching my tranny build and trying to find out if I could swap in different gear ratios, I came across a 3G Accord website that was very informative (unfortunately this was years ago and I have since lost the link). I found that some Accord guys swap all the Integra tranny internals into their tranny case but they retain the stock 5th gear for better gas mileage. Since I never found a better 1st-4th gear ratio that would swap right in, I figured I'd at least swap in the Accord 5th gear.
To anyone attempting a 3G Accord ('86-'89) 5th gear swap:
In addition to your usual metric socket set, you will need a 30mm socket, a breaker bar, a hammer, a set of punches, and a plastic bottle cap to wedge between the gears. Just to make it clear, the main shaft nut is a left hand thread (this confused the heck out of me when pulling a 5th for the first time out of a junk yard car).
Edited by lxndr, 01 January 2007 - 04:08 AM.
#671
Posted 31 December 2006 - 05:31 PM
QUOTE (DEIVIONCRX @ Dec 31 2006, 10:24 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
if its not all bolted together, please go back and re-torque every bolt on the OBX LSD, ive herd that they didnt get torqued right from the factory
Yeah, great, now you tell me! A lot of good this does me now!
Maybe this is why the Quaife is more $$$'s than the OBX; Quaife pays someone to torque the bolts...OBX doesn't!
Cheers?
#672
Posted 31 December 2006 - 05:48 PM
#673
Posted 31 December 2006 - 11:37 PM
#674
Posted 01 January 2007 - 12:23 PM
QUOTE (kakabox @ Dec 31 2006, 03:46 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
'87 Accord 5th Gear Install:
To allow for a more relaxed drive to track/ax events I decided to install an Accord 5th gear. Lxndr had pulled the 5th main and counter gear setup from a '87 Accord 5sp at Pull-A-Part and installed it in the 'teg 5 speed he ran in his 1g CRX. I fell heir to it when I bought the entire drivetrain from his 'rex.
The Accord 5th gear reduces the engine RPM in 5th...this allows for a more relaxed cruise to the track. Although I've never used 5th at a track/ax event, if I do, it will also allow for a higher top speed. However, just to be clear, I mainly did the swap because I had the gears and I was already into the tranny ...otherwise I would of just used the oem 5th gear that came in the 'teg tranny. Here's a side-by-side comparison of the oem '89 'teg 5th gears vs. the '87 Accord (main gear on top, counter shaft gear bottom):
You can do the swap w/the tranny in the car (I've done it before on my 1g 'rex)...but it's infinitely easier w/the tranny out! After removing the end cover, bending the locking tabs (nut flanges) out of the slots in the main and countershafts, install the mainshaft holder. To remove the locknuts, I used a trick from lxndr's big bag 'o tricks: using a plastic cap from a water bottle and wedge it btwn the counter and main gears...using a impact wrench w/a 30mm socket I zipped off the mainshaft nut (lh thread) and the countershaft nut (rh thread)...the plastic cap just wedges itself inbtwn the gears, stopping the shafts from spinning. That 'xndr's a tricky fellow!
Drive out the spring pin securing the 5th gear shift fork to the main shaft. Remove the mainshaft 5th, shift fork, synchro, hub, ring and spring as a unit. Remove the countershaft 5th gear...this is what you'll have:
Reverse the process replacing the oem gears w/the Accord gears. Torque the main and countershaft locknuts to 65 lb-ft, then loosen and re-torque to 65 lb-ft. Holding the mainshaft from rotating proved problematic when tightening...the lxndr bottle cap trick did not work this time because the helical cut of the gears just "spit" out the cap when tightening, not wedging itself and stopping rotation. So, I had to come up w/a less ghetto mainshaft holder. I used a clutch disc and stuck a large screwdriver through the hub and wedged it against the case ribs...like so:
I recruited my wife to work the torque wrench while I held the screwdriver and tranny case from rotating...the 'Mrs.' torqued, loosened, and re-torqued the locknuts to the FSM torque spec of 65 lb-ft. Thanks 'hun!
Then stake the locknut shoulders into the main and countershaft slots...done:
IIRC, the Accord 5th gear swap reduces the engine RPM at 60 mph in 5th by ~500 RPM's.
Cheers!
To allow for a more relaxed drive to track/ax events I decided to install an Accord 5th gear. Lxndr had pulled the 5th main and counter gear setup from a '87 Accord 5sp at Pull-A-Part and installed it in the 'teg 5 speed he ran in his 1g CRX. I fell heir to it when I bought the entire drivetrain from his 'rex.
The Accord 5th gear reduces the engine RPM in 5th...this allows for a more relaxed cruise to the track. Although I've never used 5th at a track/ax event, if I do, it will also allow for a higher top speed. However, just to be clear, I mainly did the swap because I had the gears and I was already into the tranny ...otherwise I would of just used the oem 5th gear that came in the 'teg tranny. Here's a side-by-side comparison of the oem '89 'teg 5th gears vs. the '87 Accord (main gear on top, counter shaft gear bottom):
You can do the swap w/the tranny in the car (I've done it before on my 1g 'rex)...but it's infinitely easier w/the tranny out! After removing the end cover, bending the locking tabs (nut flanges) out of the slots in the main and countershafts, install the mainshaft holder. To remove the locknuts, I used a trick from lxndr's big bag 'o tricks: using a plastic cap from a water bottle and wedge it btwn the counter and main gears...using a impact wrench w/a 30mm socket I zipped off the mainshaft nut (lh thread) and the countershaft nut (rh thread)...the plastic cap just wedges itself inbtwn the gears, stopping the shafts from spinning. That 'xndr's a tricky fellow!
Drive out the spring pin securing the 5th gear shift fork to the main shaft. Remove the mainshaft 5th, shift fork, synchro, hub, ring and spring as a unit. Remove the countershaft 5th gear...this is what you'll have:
Reverse the process replacing the oem gears w/the Accord gears. Torque the main and countershaft locknuts to 65 lb-ft, then loosen and re-torque to 65 lb-ft. Holding the mainshaft from rotating proved problematic when tightening...the lxndr bottle cap trick did not work this time because the helical cut of the gears just "spit" out the cap when tightening, not wedging itself and stopping rotation. So, I had to come up w/a less ghetto mainshaft holder. I used a clutch disc and stuck a large screwdriver through the hub and wedged it against the case ribs...like so:
I recruited my wife to work the torque wrench while I held the screwdriver and tranny case from rotating...the 'Mrs.' torqued, loosened, and re-torqued the locknuts to the FSM torque spec of 65 lb-ft. Thanks 'hun!
Then stake the locknut shoulders into the main and countershaft slots...done:
IIRC, the Accord 5th gear swap reduces the engine RPM at 60 mph in 5th by ~500 RPM's.
Cheers!
Where can I find the complete how to on the '87 Accord 5th Gear install?
#675
Posted 01 January 2007 - 09:31 PM
QUOTE (1gcvcb18 @ Jan 1 2007, 09:23 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Where can I find the complete how to on the '87 Accord 5th Gear install?
Is this a trick question?
...here: http://www.redpepper...e...st&p=315510 ...and here: http://www.redpepper...e...st&p=315520
Having a '86-'89 'teg FSM would help, but, you should be able to do the swap following the previous posts...buy a new end cover gasket also.