2000 replies to this topic

[kakabox]

Props on the fabwork and making use of what you have... but, for some reason your car had 2 pairs of drivers side sliders. For everyone who has the stock sliders, you can just use the passanger side lock slider.

PS: I used to have one of those plastic seats in my old rex. I found I slid arround side to side using the OEM seatbelt. Plus the lateral support for your upper torso leaves a lot to be desired, particluarly since plastic doesn't exactly have the best friction coefficient . It is probobly way different with a racing harness. But I'm a skinny bugger. 6' tall and like 145-150LBs.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks.

I purposely used the wrong side lock slider because of the rail offset...I'll try to explain. The 'feet' on the lock sliders are canted off center (of the floor attach bolt), which moves the rail off center. So, if you use the lock slider on the 'wrong' side, it moves the rail inbd 1", which reduces the length of my seat bracket 'beams' 1". That makes for a slightly stiffer, slightly lighter beam. Big deal, right? Yeah, probably, but it was there so I took advantage of it!

The Summit Racing poly seats have a texture to them, not unlike coarse grit sandpaper; it's not smooth at all. The surface does grip your clothing to a surprisingly high degree.

You're correct about using a racing harness. I'm using a Schroth harness. It's even DOT approved for street use (it even comes w/a label stating such, so you can point it out when you're stopped by the popo!). It provides lateral restraint like a race harness, and, best of all: "they easily mount to stock seatbelt mounting points, so there are no holes to drill and no modifications to your car in any way. They are also VERY easy to get in and out of, which is handy at an autocross where you will be getting in and out of your car several times."

Read all about them here: http://www.soloracer...schrothfaq.html

I purchased the Black (w/silver "SCHROTH") Schroth Rallye 4 harness for the driver.
http://www.soloracer.com/rallye4.html ...and will get another for my victim, ah, er, I mean passenger!

In the end, it remains to be seen how the Plastic Fantasic Seat will work in an ax or ot event...I reserve the right to get 'proper' race seat if it doesn't!

Cheers!

[EuphoricBlue]

The 'feet' on the lock sliders are canted off center

The Summit Racing poly seats have a texture to them, not unlike coarse grit sandpaper; it's not smooth at all.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Interesting, I see it in the pictures now that I'm looking for it. maybe the 3G sliders and different than the 1G? On my CRX the mounting points are cnetered under the slider.

As for your seats, it's quite pissible I had a different brand of a similar seat? Or maybe they changed the texture since I had it? My seats had a textre, butit was more like that of the plastic trim arround the shifter. It wasn't smooth; but it was all rounded, effectively making it little better than sitting in a smooth plastic seat.

[kakabox]

My seats had a textre, butit was more like that of the plastic trim arround the shifter. It wasn't smooth; but it was all rounded, effectively making it little better than sitting in a smooth plastic seat.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I'm seen several versions of the Plastic Fantasic Seat...JAZ makes one, RCI another...I don't know who makes Summit's, but, it appears to be of a higher quality (for a poly seat anyway) than the others. They actually claim to have given design input and one area they addressed was the surface texture...here's what they claim:

"We put a lot of thought into our new Summit performance seats--and it shows. For example, we gave them three separate belt openings instead of one, so you can use "H" or "Y" style safety harnesses. We also added two recessed locations, so you can anchor them to a roll bar. Other features include a lower "stance" for more head clearance, cone and rib back supports for added impact protection, and a ribbed mounting base for added strength. We also added more surface texture and cover beadlocks to keep the seat covers in place."

http://store.summitr...15&autoview=sku

Dunno, the texture on these seats might smooth down over time, esp at the pressure points...but, we'll see. I'm really relying on the harness to hold me in.

It's really not bad for $35...we'll see.

[crazi-85crx]

You can get padded vinyl covers for them if slipping around is an issue, but they cost as much as the seat itself and you're right, the bare seat does looks better anyways.

As I'm sure you're aware of, you should check your race sanctioning body's regulations for whatever else is needed if mounting a non-stock seat such as this. I'm pretty sure for drag racing it would require a brace on the back, but I'm not too familiar with auto-x reg's. Just lookin' out.

And that bottom bracket looks really good... you wouldn't consider making 2 extra would you?

Edit:
Oh, and happy 1 year anniversary of being an RPR member and of starting this thread. lol

[kakabox]

You can get padded vinyl covers for them if slipping around is an issue, but they cost as much as the seat itself and you're right, the bare seat does looks better anyways.

As I'm sure you're aware of, you should check your race sanctioning body's regulations for whatever else is needed if mounting a non-stock seat such as this. I'm pretty sure for drag racing it would require a brace on the back, but I'm not too familiar with auto-x reg's. Just lookin' out.
And that bottom bracket looks really good... you wouldn't consider making 2 extra would you?
Edit:
Oh, and happy 1 year anniversary of being an RPR member and of starting this thread. lol

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The vinyl covers I find slippery and hot (although this uncovered black plastic may be just as hot) and imo don't look very good. If the covers were made out of fabric like on my Ultra Shield (other hobby car) seats, I'd probably get them. I could have a set made, but I think the naked black plastic seats just seem right in the gutted interior of the 'box.

My ax club does not require back braces on the seats...as long as the seat is firmly bolted down, your good to go. As far as I've experienced, neither do any of the local car club's require a brace for their "track days" either. That said, I think the plastic seat would be safer w/a back brace. Look for my next 'build' post; I just got done fabbing one.

Thanks for the kudos on the bracket. I'm sorry, but I currently don't have the time to do any side projects.

Hey, that's right, wow! One year has passed since I started the build...Thanks! I thought I'd be done by now ...oh well, there's always next year!

Cheers!

[kakabox]

Plastic Seat Back Brace Fab:

I got to thinking about how safe the Summit Racing poly seats ( http://store.summitr...15&autoview=sku ) would be long term, i.e., would the fasteners pull out of the bottom of the seat from the constant 'heel-toe' (overturning moment on the seat) caused while braking and clutching? And/or, would the seat fly backward if someone punted me from the rear...?

The seat comes w/"two recessed locations, so you can anchor them to a roll bar"...I don't have a roll bar or cage, but, I do have a 'stiffening' truss that I can attach it to. So I fabbed an adjustable brace bar to relieve the seat bottom fastener load and prevent the seat from flipping over backwards.

Here's the finished product (not yet painted) attached to the truss at the driver's perferred location:


It's free to pivot at both the seat and the truss connections, so, there's no bending moment at the seat attachment. This also allows the brace it to change angle as you adjust the seat fwd and aft. It's adjustable for the shortest legged driver:


...to the longest legged driver:


Here's how I made it.

I installed my stiffening truss (this is an early pic)...


...and checked out where a brace projected from headrest recessed brace pocket...this one:


I measured out to the truss, perpendicular to the pocket:


Convinced that it was going to work, I set about making the clevis's that the brace would attach to. One for the seat back, and one for the truss. I used some 1 x 2 x .10 steel channel I had. Here's the starting point for the seat clevis:


Some careful measuring w/the T-square as to where to locate the brace pivot, drilling, and hacksawing...BAM! Clevis roughed out:


After welding a couple nuts inside the channel for the seat back attach bolts, a little finish filing, the seat back clevis was done:


...continued...

[kakabox]

Seat Brace Fab continued...

The truss clevis was made the same way; starting w/a channel section which I drilled a hole through for the pivot:


...then using my high tech hacksaw, angle grinder and hand files...I whittled it into shape. After welding a nut on for the pivot bolt, the truss clevis was finished:


Next was drilling the seat and mounting the brace...


...front side (the seat is double wall construction):


...and, no, my head does not touch the fastener heads!

I remounted the seat and w/the brace attached, I used it to locate the clevis on the truss. I clamped the truss clevis into position, removed the truss and welded the clevis on:


Once the truss was back in the car, I marked the brace tube at each fore-aft position of the seat:


Then all there was left was to drill the holes and do a final fit!

Man, does it really firm the seat up! The back is rock solid. I used ss socket head bolts and welded all the receiving nuts so that all you need to adjust the seat brace is an allen wrench...cuts down on the amt of tool you have to take to the track!

Cheers!

[crazi-85crx]

Wow... just, wow

[Richard]

i think everything youve put into your car is very thought out and is very pracitical while remaining pleasing to the eye.

but i am NOT a fan of that stiffening truss. why not get a cage?

[kakabox]

i think everything youve put into your car is very thought out and is very pracitical while remaining pleasing to the eye.

but i am NOT a fan of that stiffening truss. why not get a cage?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks.

Sorry you're not a fan of the truss. I made the stiffening truss last year before I knew/decided the extent I'd be modding the car. It was cheap (<$20), easy & fun for me to make inhouse, and relatively lighter (19 lbs.) than a cage.

Yes, I know there is a difference btwn the two...I make no pretenses that the truss provides any roll over protection, or stiffens the car to the same degree as a proper six/eight point cage would. It does, however, provide local stiffness to the shell and holds my video camera up quite well! And now, it provides a reaction point for the seat brace...so, it's not all for nought!

I reserve the right install a cage in the future, but, I doubt that I will. Ultimately the KAKABOX will be turned into a topless car w/a semi-tube frame and SCCA approved roll bar...but that'll be an entirely different build thread for some other time!

Cheers!

[DEIVIONCRX]

damn this build realy inspires me to buy a damn welder, drill press, and several other tools so i can do shit like this

fucker

car looks awusome

[kakabox]

Eh, being able to move your seat is over rated.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Eh, er...ok, so read on!

So, the latest news in the Kakashop is that I sold my other hobby car (look for it soon at a So Cal racetrack near you!). Part of the deal was that I got to keep the Ultra Shield race seats that were in the car; they were custom made per my dimensions and the new owner did not fit comfortably in them.

That's good news for the Kakabox, as these seats are very strong: "constructed from .125" 5052 grade aluminum with hardened aluminum extrusion welded around the perimeter of the seat and seat belt holes". They're great for holding you in place, very light, and relatively comfortable...and they're already paid for!

So, now that I have a pair of real race seats, I needed to make another set of brackets for them. The brackets for the poly seat will not work.

This time, I decided to make the seats fixed...no sliders. I figured I could eliminate a few lbs. in the process as the factory slider rails weigh 5 lbs. per seat.

To make my fixed rails, I used the "feet" from the factory slider rails:


I found that .75 x .75 steel tube fit perfectly (tightly) in the channel of the factory feet. I used a length of tube and a second shorter length to make the fixed rails.


Stacking the long tube on a shorter tube wedged in the rear channel allowed the rail to be level. This was slick, because not only did I get a level seat bracket, but it also mounted the seats higher (needed w/the Ultra Shield race seats w/their flat bottoms).


As it turned out, the increase in height was perfect.

The rails were 'C'-clamped in position in the car, then taken out and welded up:


After careful mock up and trial & error sitting, three fixed seat positions were obtained: my optimum leg position and two others 1" each aft (for longer legged "guest" drivers, or when I drive w/my platform shoes! ) Nut plates were welded to the rail tops at the positions, and the welds ground down flat.


I cut some aluminum tube for the seat beams, and mocked the bracket up in the car:


The four point attachment to the rails use specially machined .10 thick stainless washers and socket hd screws:


The driver's seat was bolted down (through the seat bottom, through the beams, nutted on the bottom):


The fixed position shown is for my preferred leg position; there are two more positions, each one being 1" more aft than the previous.


The weight savings of the fixed rails vs. the factory slider rails turned out to be 2 lbs. per seat, or, 4 lbs. total. In total, the pair of Ultra Shield seats will yield a 15 lb. reduction over the factory seats!

Cheers!

[rollz87civic]

Thank you for the kind words. 

...so here's the other 'hobby' car:







...and, fwiw, it's more than capable in doing "40 foot burnouts", but, that's the slow way around a track! 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

love the stang


keep up the good work

when the d16a1 going in?

[kakabox]

love the stang
keep up the good work

when the d16a1 going in?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks.
I just got an email from the new owner; he made it back down to Calimesa CA w/the car (on a trailer) in one piece. First thing he has to do is buy two new front seats!

I have a little surprise up my sleeve regarding "the" d16a1...more on that later!

[oldschoolimport]

so with the integra drivetrain and brakes, what auto-X class would you be in?