Throttle Body

I'd like to get a bigger t/b, What throttle body can i use? What is the best option here, adapter plates are no problem, ill get one made by my dad. what is my best possible option?

Thanks
Dustin

What engine is it going on? And what kind of HP are you making?

Making an adapter to get the thing to stick to the plenum is only part of the battle.

You also need to use a TPS that will "talk" to your car's ECU. You can reuse your stock TPS if it will fit into the new TB. A Honda TB from a similar year should have a compatible TPS. An injected Accord's or the Integra's TB are good choices. to look for.

If you use the stock TPS with some other type of TB you will need to get the stock TPS off the old TB. The TPS is attached to the TB with "headless" screws. You will need to cut a "slot" into these weird screws so that they can use a straight screw driver to get them out.

Scott

Check out this site.

maxbore

I have a stock TB bored out and it is a nice improvement and still looks stock. that is great here in California when you have to have your car's smog check done, just ask cbstdscott.

Doug

Man I always forget the little damn details, sorry firstgen, D15A3 bored to a 1.6, fully worked head, n/a so not to much power.

Scott, thanks for the reply, I have anoth tps laying around and will be using that one on the t/b that I choose, I've heard of a b16 t/b being a good choice in this matter. Accord t/b, never heard of that one. I would like to get ride of the dual butterfly setup and would like a big single

Wolfcrx, I've heard of ppl boring out our t/b and it working well, I may look into it.



Thanks
Dustin

How much gains from the "Butt Dyno" could one expect to feel from a ported TB on a stock motor, or a stock motor with intake and headers, with NO head or cam work?

Chris

Not much really. Its a package. Just TB alone you will notice nothing. Stock head with TB and header (its not headers dammit, thats my biggest pet peeve, this is not a V-4 or a V-8 here there is only one header) will notice some gains, but still not much really without the headwork. Maybe 5-10 horses if you are lucky.

A "bit." Every modification, generally speaking, helps a bit. An automobile is a collection of interworking pieces, so to get the most potential out of Modification "A" you will need to also make Modifications "B" through "Z."

I call this The Rule of Money. Any Money spent on a car project will require a Square Root amount more Money spent to make the original Money's investment worthwhile.

Math Majors: please excuse me if I express this formula incorrectly.
M= Money Spent
BM= Butt O' Meter Happiness

M + (M x M) = BM

Agh, no math Scott, that's why I went to law school instead of being an engineer!

Can I give you some advice at the risk of being completely flamed by everyone else? Try not to go too big on the TB. If you are working toward a goal of only 100hp or so, keep it around 56mm. If you're going for 150hp, try a 58mm (the H22 I'm using in my project only has a 60mm body, and it makes almost 200 hp). Otherwise, you will have all of your throttle too soon. This is what I mean:

Based on a combination of many things like header, cam, head work, intake mani, compression.... the engine can only use so much air coming in at the throttle body. So lets say that a 56mm body at wide open is the most air the engine can actually use. If you where to use a 64mm throttle body instead, then the engine would stop benefiting from the larger body at about 2/3 of your peddle. So from 2/3 peddle to full peddle, you gain nothing. I've always felt it was best to have the full range of your peddle, otherwise, the car has all it can give too soon. You will have more control over the power with a full peddle. Just my opinion, so take it with a grain of salt.

Here is a link to a simple chart showing the common throttle body sizes from other Honda engines. That should help you find what you need:

http://hondaswap.com...095/#post250218

If you use this Wikipedia link:

http://en.wikipedia....f_Honda_engines

You can compare the HP values from the engine you are thinking of using the TB from, to the target HP value of your engine. That should give you a clue as to the proper size as well.

Of course, like Scott said above, you will need to adapt your throttle position sensor to whatever body you choose to use.

Hope this helps.

David

You should have apologized to english majors as well for misspelling "formula"

I am a broadcaster, spelling correctly is not required!

just messing with you buddy

David,

You make a good point. But I find that my 66mm throttlebody (from RC Engineering) works progressively to redline on my 100whp D15A3. In the case of our old engines, the intake plenum and manifold seem to be the restrictive factor. You can pass all the air you want through the TB. But only a certain amount will get through that soda straw of an intake manifold.

Again, I am not disputing your point with an intake/plenum of suffcient volume. I am just suggesting that a large TB on top of the stock intake is not always a bad thing.

And we all agree that the stock TB is restrictive.

Scott

Unless you have some very special 76.5mm pistons I seriously doubt you have bored your engine out to 1.6 liters. I'm guessing you mean you have some pistons from a 1.6 Integra engine? Those 75mm units with the D15 crank would give you about 1530cc of displacement.

Just curious why you are wanting to get rid of the stock TB. It works quite well in a stock configuration and is more than capable of making over 130 WHP without doing anything to it other than media blasting (NOT p&p). Of course a lot of other items would be required to work together (as David eludes to) to make those numbers but it can be done with a little attention to detail.

FWIW, the previously mentioned numbers were seen with about 11:1 compression and below 7200 rpm on a non ported cylinder head with stock TB. And it idles quite smoothly at 1100 rpm.