Faq

1st Gen CRX FAQ's

Basic Questions
Cheap Modification Questions
Body and Cosmetic Questions
Engine Questions
Brake Questions
Suspension Questions
Junkyard Parts List
Links
Specifications


Basic Questions

Q: What is the best source of information about my CRX?
A: The FACTORY service manual is invaluable. I suggest that every CRX owner get a FACTORY manual. FACTORY manuals turn up on eBay and are well worth the price. There is a scan of the factory 87 Civic HB here. Although it is not CRX specific, aside from the body, everything else is either the same or very similar.

Q: Who makes a Cold Air Intake for the 1st Gen Si?
A: Pacesetter sells a CAI for the 1st Gen CRX Si and the 1st Gen Integra. Ask your favorite retailer for Pacesetter part number 161609X.

Q: Can I use parts from the 1988 and newer models on my car?
A: There are not a lot of interchangeable parts between the 1st Generation CRX (1984-1987) and the Second Generation CRX (1988 and later); the engine, transmission, suspension and body are different. Some brake parts and most fasteners are interchangeable. 88-89 CRX seats will generally fit in a 1G if you use the 1G rails on the 2G seat. The seats from cars with door mounted seatbelts will not work.

Q: How fast can I go?
A: How much money do you have? Anything is possible if you throw enough money into the project.

Q: Can I put a B series engine in my 1st Gen CRX?
A: http://www.hasport.com makes the kit to do it. Bring a bag of money.

Q: Can I put 16" wheels on my 1st Gen CRX?
A: You could, but it is not a good idea. Long story short: Racing CRX's are shod with wide 13 inch wheels and tires. I have a set of 205/50/15 tires on 15x7 wheels for street use and that is as large and wide as you can go. 195/50/15 is better for street use. For racing I use 205/60/13 tires on 13-inch wheels.

Q: Where can I find parts online?
A: Used, and sometimes new, parts come up on auction sites like www.ebay.com. Check often. For new OEM parts try www.hondaautomotiveparts.com. www.cyberauto.com lists many 1st Gen CRX parts. Also, check my list of links at the end of this file.

Q: Are all 1st Gen CRX parts interchangeable?
A: The 1st Gen was first sold as 1984 model in 1983. For the 1986 model year, the CRX got a slightly different interior. Honda also changed the electrical connectors in the 1986 model, so some electrical parts from the 84-85 cars will need modification to fit on the 86-87 cars. There are some subtle differences in the front fenders, front and rear bumper covers, body cladding, and header panel between years and models.

Q: Could I put the Honda 4WD system from a 1985-1987 Civic Wagon on my CRX?
A: The Honda 4WD only sends 10% of the engine power to the rear wheels, so the extra weight and hassle is not justified. But, you can bolt an Integra D16 engine directly to the 4WD Civic Wagon transmission so you could build a very strong Civic Wagon if you wanted.

Q: What are the differences between the 1985, 86 and 87 models?
A: The various CRX models are built on the same basic body, but there are subtle differences from year to year. Externally, the 1985 Si had the same bumper caps and side cladding as the DX and HF models of that year. The Si was the only model sold with a factory sunroof and rear wiper.

The 1986-87 Si got its own set of bumper caps and side cladding plus a solid paint scheme rather than the 1985 Si's two tone. Red, Silver, and White were the colors for the 1986 Si, the 1987 Si came in Red, Black and Silver. Of the surviving 1st Gen Si’s, Red and Black seem to be the most common colors followed by Silver. White is the least common color of the remaining fleet.

In 1986, Honda changed electrical connectors on all CRX's. The 86-87 Si got 14 inch allows and a slightly different gear ratio. The Si door interior for '86-'87 got a cloth inserts and a slight redesign.

In California, all Si's were sold with factory air, but that was an option in other regions. California Si's also came with rear defogger, but all 1st Gen Si’s may have come with it also.
All 1984-85 CRX’s got the white CRX logo on the back center panel. The 1986-87 CRX DX and HF have also got the white CRX logo. The Si's have the red CRX to match the Si logo.
There are four different interior colors offered in 1st Gen CRX's. Light Blue, was the color of the 19884-85 DX and HF, the 1985 Si interior is Black. Dark Blue was the color of the 1986-87 DX and HF interior; the Si has an Off Black (sort of a dark gray).
The 1985 Si has a unique “Mugen-style” soft rubber rear spoiler; the 1986-87 Si has an “end cap” rear spoiler made from the same soft rubber. The DX and HF were available with a hard plastic rear wing. The soft rubber wing was mandated by European regulations; the hard plastic wings were illegal in Europe.
Honda has a tradition of offering their cars with few, if any, options available from the factory. But dealers installed options included: Reflective rear panel between the stoplights, Various radio/cassette options, Rear speakers, Mud flaps, Fog Lights, Rear hatch louvers, Rear cargo covers.

Cheap Modification Questions

Q: Can I make my own Cold Air intake?
A: I have made my own CAI from some pieces of black PVC plastic piping (the thick black plastic pipe that is used as waste pipe) and a K&N filter with a 3 ½ inch opening that attaches with a pipe clamp, K&N part number RX-4140.

Q: I am on a budget, how can I make cheap modifications?
A: The 1984-1987 CRX, the 1984-1987 Civic and the 1986-1988 Integra are basically the same car under the skin. Junkyard parts are cheap.

Q: I would like to lighten my car.
A: The obvious things to discard are interior trim, sound deadening and the A/C system. Under the front and rear bumper covers are heavy steel beams that are the actual bumpers. If you do not plan on hitting anything, these heavy steel beams can be hack sawed out. If you are planning on having an accident, a car that weighs less than 2,000 pounds should not be your vehicle of choice. Buy a Volvo.

Q: Strut tower braces will stiffen my car and improve my suspension's response, can I make my own?
A: Yes, you can. You could buy front and rear strut tower braces from online seller www.cyberauto.com or www.greddy.com. You could make your own with imagination and some basic hand tool skills. Go to the hardware store and look for sections of "Uni-strut." This is predrilled steel that looks like the stuff the highway department uses to mount roadway signs.

Q: Can I relocate my battery?
A: I relocated my battery to behind the passenger's seat. Rather than buy an expensive kit, I used one cable from a set of jumper cables to connect the battery to the engine compartment. I bolted the ground cable to the passenger's seat bolt and I ran the positive cable under the console and through the firewall via a factory cut hole that is just above the passenger's feet. The firewall hole is plugged with a rubber "stopper" that I drilled a hole in and passed the positive cable through.

Q: Where can I get a set of wider, lighter wheels that will not break my wallet?
A: The Junkyard. Water-cooled VW wheels are the same bolt spacing and nearly the same backspacing as Hondas. Every good junkyard has a ton of VW alloy wheels that are lighter and wider than your stock wheels. I have been told that BMW wheels will also fit the Honda, but I would be careful about putting RWD wheels on a FWD car.

Q: Racing tires work great but they are expensive, do you have a cheap source?
A: Every racetrack has a tire facility. The rich racers take perfectly good tires off their racecars and put on new tires. I bought a set of good, used race tires for $30 each at my local racetrack.

Q: Where can I get longer wheel studs?
A: Honda wheel studs are all the same, 12mm x1.5mm, however the wheel studs from a '96-98 Acura 3.2TL are longer than a Civic's studs. Not only is there more strength this way but also because there is stud sticking out the end of nut, if you do a boo-boo to the end of the threads this allows you to try and repair it easier. And if you can't, in a pinch, you could cut a bit off the end of the stud and still have full thread contact.


Body and Cosmetic Questions

Q: Where can I buy a body kit for the early CRX?
A: Mugen made a body kit that is no longer being manufactured. www.housemanautosport.com makes a pretty good copy of the Mugen body kit. www.andysautosport.com/crx_ground.html sells a body kit also.

Q: The front piece between the headlights and my fenders are cracked, where can I get replacements?
A: That piece is called the “header panel” you can order the header from http://www.certifit.com/ or you can get the pieces from Honda. Honda quality is better. Certifit is cheaper.

Q: Who sells clear corners, taillights and turn signals for the early CRX?
A: As far as I know, no aftermarket manufacturer is selling clear or Altezza-style lights for the early CRX. Honda sold the early CRX with clear corners in Europe; the JDM models have amber lights like the US model. Try contacting Honda dealers in Europe like www.crown-honda.co.uk/parts/index.htm The only trick to installing Euro-spec clear corners: the US corners have two light bulbs in them, the Euro corners only have one. I have drilled a hole in the back of the Euro-spec corners to allow the second bulb to be mounted. Euro-spec corner lights are technically illegal in the US. The 1984-88 Toyota pickup truck turn signal lights are very close in size to the Honda turn signal lights. A set of aftermarket clear lens for the Toyota truck will fit nearly exactly over your Honda turn signals.

Q: What seats will bolt into the early CRX?
A: Generally speaking, seats can be swapped from model to model if you stay within the same year. For example, I used to have 1987 Prelude seats in my 1987 CRX Si. The bolts and tracks are the same width. Honda changed the seat track width on nearly all their cars in 1988; so later seats need to be modified to fit. Some people have installed the more comfortable later model CRX seats by relocating the seat rails to fit the mounting location of the early CRX. The only draw back is that the new seats are a little taller and headroom is compromised.

Q: I want a deeper air dam for my Si.
A: The HF air dam is 1/2" deeper and about 1/2" narrower than the 86-87 Si air dam. The difference in width is not enough to notice. Another trick is use the plastic edging materiel from a garden supply store and bolt that to the bottom of the front lip. It may look ghetto, but it is cheap and effective.

Q: How do I change my recessed ’84-’85 headlights to the flush ‘86-’87 headlights?
A: This answer comes from the CRX Resource’s Steve Jones:
You'll need to remove the side markers and header panel (the plastic panel between the hood and the bumper, which also forms the headlight eyebrows. Parts you'll need: '86-'87 headlights and buckets (these will bolt in), headlight connectors (cut these off the harness of the donor car), side markers, all associated brackets. The associated brackets include the two which hold the header panel in front of, and just to the inside of the headlights. On your car, these are straight pieces, oriented horizontal the ground, and aiming toward the center of the car at about 45 degrees. You'll replace them with the S-hook shaped replacements from the donor car. Bring a cordless drill and plenty of high-speed carbon bits, when you go to the junkyard, as these are spot welded to the bulkhead. The s-hook shaped pieces are designed to go around the lip of the flush-mounted headlights. Your straight pieces will interfere.

When you get home, you'll find the old buckets are held in with spot welds. Drill these out to remove the recessed H4666 headlight buckets. You have the option of spot welding your s-hook shaped brackets, or drilling and bolting them to your car. Replace parts in reverse order. Cut the H4666 connectors off your car and replace them with the new connectors. These need to be soldered. Then, use good quality heat shrink for insulation, and follow up with some high grade 3M electrical tape for additional weatherproofing.

Q: I want to change to a different steering wheel, what is involved?
A: I just replaced the steering wheel on my '87 with a JDM Integra Type R steering wheel made by Momo for Honda. This steering wheel is 350mm and feels great in my hands. Unfortunately this wheel needed some modifications with a hacksaw, a drill and a tap & die set to make it fit onto my car.

Honda did not change the splines on the steering column from the mid-80's until they started installing airbags, so you can swap wheels from any Honda or Acura into your CRX. You may need to make some modifications for clearance to get the 19mm nut that holds the wheel to the steering column to fit, but the splines are all the same.

A smaller steering wheel means you will need more muscle to turn the wheel (less leverage). This will make an impact on you if you do a lot of parking. Conversely, a larger diameter wheel will reduce the amount of effort needed to turn the wheel.
Your stock steering wheel sticks out from the steering column a certain distance. On my 1st Gen, the steering wheel is relatively flat and does not stick out much at all. On later Hondas, the steering wheel is relatively deeply "dished." Changing your steering wheel's dish will change the relationship between your hands and the turn signal switch and the lights switch, maybe moving those controls farther away than what you may be comfortable with.

Aftermarket steering wheels (Grant on the cheap side, Sparco/Momo on the high end) come as two pieces: the steering wheel itself which is generic to all cars, and the hub that has splines designed for a particular make of car. The steering wheel bolts to the hub; the hub is then bolted to the car.

The aftermarket steering wheels come in a variety of depths and widths; generally speaking, the hubs come only in one depth for a make of car. Thus there MAY NOT be a deep Honda hub and a shallow Honda hub to adjust the amount of distance the aftermarket wheel will stick out from the steering column.

If you are on a budget, check out your local junkyard for steering wheels, particularly from the 3rd Generation Prelude.



Engine Questions

Q: What are my options for more power in a carb’ed 1500 engine?
A: The easiest upgrade for your car is to keep your block and put a 1st Gen Si head on it. Instead of fuel injection, dual Weber DCOE 40 carbs turn that engine into a monster. The dual Weber set-up is pricey, illegal in smog control states and will require some cam and port improvement to maximize the potential of the carbs, but it will make upwards of 130+hp. Plus, you do not have to change transmissions or fuel systems to make it work. I have also been told that there is a Mikuni carb combination that works, but the Weber set-up is considered superior.

So lets do the math: Swap in a D16, tranny, shift linkage and axles (plus in the case of a carb'ed car like yours, add the fuel system, wiring harness and ECU from a fuel injected car) from an early Integra that will require a torsion bar upgrade and you end up with a tired used engine that might make about 110 hp and adds 50-100 extra pounds to your front end.

Or: Do the Si head and Webers, add no extra weight and get as much as 130hp.

Even cheaper: Do the Si head and add a larger than stock down draft carb that MAY pass smog.

The following Questions and Answers explore all of these possibilities.

Q: I want to make my car a hybrid and install a bigger, stronger engine. What engine is easy to install in a 1st Gen CRX?
A: The 1986-1989 Integra DOHC D16 engine and transmission will bolt right into a 1st Gen CRX. At the top of the family tree for the D Series, DOHC 1600cc, 16-valve engine is the JDM spec ZC engine of 135 hp. Next in line was the Euro-spec D16A8 which makes about 120 hp. In the US, we got the D16A1 Black Valve Cover version in the 1988-89 Integra, with 118 hp. And at the end of the line is the D16A1 Brown Valve Cover version in the 1986-87 Integra with 113hp.

Many people refer to all 1986-89 Integra engines as being a ZC, but this is not technically correct. ZC is Honda's term for the top rated version of any family of engines. Not many people realize that there was a ZC version of the SOHC D16 engine that was sold in Japan. If you can find all of the JDM parts, you could build a USDM D16 into a ZC. But those parts are rare and probably expensive.

The Brown and Black valve cover version of the DOHC D16 engine are very easy to install. The 88-89 Integra engine (black valve cover) is slightly more powerful than the 86-87 engines (brown valve cover) because it has a better flowing intake manifold, domed pistons with higher compression and lighter connecting rods. The black top D16 has a very different distributor and ECU that will not “just plug-in” to a 1st Gen CRX. You CAN NOT use the brown top distributor on the black top engine.

The BROWN Valve cover is equipped with:
-Flat top pistons
-Thicker rods
-Square styled intake manifold
-Vacuum advance ignition with external coil

The BLACK Valve cover is equipped with:
-Domed pistons
-Slightly lighter rods
-Rounded intake manifold.
-Electronic advance distributor with internal coil.

ACTUAL SWAP INFO:

Engine Mounts (total of 3 mounts on 84-87 Civic/CRX's):
Use the stock Civic/CRX mounts on the rear cross member & front timing-belt side.
Use an 86-89 Integra tranny mount for the tranny. The Civic/CRX tranny mount will make the motor sit crooked if you use it, so don't.

Axles:
Use a complete set of 86-89 Integra axles including the intermediate shaft.

Knuckle/hub assembly:
In order to use an 86-89 Teg' engine + transmission, you have to use the 86-89 Integra knuckle/spindle assembly so that you can utilize the Integra 3-piece axles. The 86-89 Integra axles DO NOT plug into 84-87 Civic/CRX knuckle/spindle's.

Shift linkage:
Use a complete 86-89 Integra's shift linkage.

Wiring harness:
Use the 1st Gen CRX Si's wiring harness. Plugs right into the 86-87 Integra sensors, injectors, & distributor.

Distributor & ECU:
Make sure you use an 86-87 Integra ECU & Distributor. That's the only DOHC ECU (besides a JDM one) designed to work with a Vacuum Advance Ignition (distributor), which only came on the 86-87 Integra's.

***Do not use an 88-89 Teg' ECU or Distributor**** Simply because it has an internal coil ignition just like all the 88+ civic/CRX/Integra use, which is completely different than the 86-87 ignition components.

Q: Can I put a fuel-injected engine into a car that currently has a carb?
A: Fuel injection requires a pressurized fuel system that the carburetored cars do not have. You will need to change the fuel system and a large portion of the wiring harness to put a fuel injected engine in your car.

Q: Can I put a B series engine in my 1st Gen CRX?
A: http://www.hasport.com makes the kit to do it. Bring a bag of money.

Q: I want a more aggressive ECU (Computer) or a chip and fuel injectors to increase performance in my Si.
A: As far as I know, no one makes a chip or a high performance ECU for the 1st Gen CRX Si. The 1986-87 Integra ECU and fuel injectors will plug right into your car. The Integra ECU will let you rev higher and the injectors will flow more fuel. I suggest that you also install a fuel pressure regulator, a fuel pressure gauge, an air/fuel ration meter and a honed throttle body for increased airflow to match the increased fuel flow. After some experimenting with the Integra ECU, I have put the stock CRX ECU back in.

Q: How can I make more power in my fuel-injected engine?
A: If you get more air and fuel into the engine, the engine will make more power. To supply the "more fuel" I put in a set of 86-87 Integra injectors that I had cleaned and balanced. To get the "more air" I built a better breathing throttle body out of a stock, twin choke throttle body.

I opened the throat of the primary choke from 20mm to 26mm and I also smoothed the path to both chokes. Using a Dremel with a cutting wheel I cut the "lip" of the primary throat so that it was even with the "shelf" that surrounds the primary throat. I then drilled down the primary throat on a drill press and with a 61/64" drill bit. Finally, I cleaned every thing up with a grinding bit on a 3/8" drill and a wire brush on the same drill.

Q: I was thinking of installing an undersized crank pulley.
A: Don't bother. I had one on my car and it did nothing to improve performance, all they do is make your alternator and A/C compressor spin slower. The stock crank pulley is designed to work with your engine and should not be changed.

Q: My idle fluctuates up and own by a couple hundred RPM on my fuel-injected engine.
A: Your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) has gone bad. This is the portion of the throttle body that tells the ECU how far open the choke plate is. Normally, if the TPS goes bad you must replace the whole throttle body because the TPS is attached with slot-less screws. But, you can cut slots into the TPS screws with a file or a Dremel tool and unscrew the TPS. Swap in a junkyard TPS and that should fix your problem.

Q: I have a DX, can I put the better breathing Si head on my DX block (the Si and the DX share the same EW block).
A: This answer comes from the Mk1CRX discussion group on Yahoo Groups: I would definitely go for the Si head. I have done it and I was amazed. I shaved my Si head .040 to recover lost compression, but it's not necessary, you'll just have low compression. If you do shave the head, a cam gear is most beneficial, because shaving the head automatically retards cam timing and the gear will get it back to stock or preferably a bit advanced, good for mid range power. I went the dual side draft route, very simple manifold and no worries.

Weber Carbs: they are unmatched in the world of carburetion, but very, expensive, and a PITA to tune and sync the first time, along with being very sensitive to dramatic weather changes. Weber makes side drafts, in several varieties. The most common [and arguably the best carb of any configuration ever made] is the DCOE. They're a twin carburetor design, meaning that there are two distinct throats that act independently of one another, but share the same body. They can be found with 40, 45 and 52mm throats [I think there are more, but those are the most popular, esp. the DCOE 40]. The easiest way to get more power from an engine is to allow it more air with the proper amount of fuel. For my engine, I chose twin DCOE 40 Webers [that's four (count'em, 4) air horns], with a DC sports header. Mikuni's are nice, easily tuned, but Webers blow them out of the water if they're jetted even close. You can find more models and prices of Weber carbs and carb kits at: www.carbs.net

Q: Can I put a single carburetor on my Si head?
A: Rip and Tear Auto from the CRX Resource answers: You will need to use the bottom half of the Si intake manifold and make an adapter plate to get the carb to mount on it. The carb is a Weber 32/36 DGAV. This is the carb that is used in the single Weber conversion kit for carbureted 1st Gens. We had to change every jet in the thing. Right now it's got:
150 primary main
155 secondary main
75 primary idle
60 secondary idle
55 double shot accelerator pump jet
160 primary and secondary air correctors
It still needs a bigger secondary idle jet (don't have one yet) and I am still playing with the air correctors.

The injector holes are just tapped and plugged with standard brass plugs. I originally used the DX cam in the Si head so I could run my stock fuel pump, but have since switched over to a carb’ed Accord pump. The Accord pump is electric, and has a built in regulator. Vacuum lines? I have vacuum lines. Well, one anyway, running from the back of the carb to my vacuum advance on my distributor. No it is not smog legal, but hey you can't have every thing. As far as the design of the adapter plate, I never drew up anything nice because I didn't need to since I was making the plate myself.

Q: Where can I get stiffer than stock motor mounts?
A: Mugen used to make a set, but they are currently unavailable. But you can cheaply make your OEM mounts stiffer than stock by filling the hollow spaces in the rubber mounts with polyurethane (3-M polyurethane adhesive works well). Clean all of the surfaces inside the OEM motor mount carefully, apply the windshield adhesive, and let it cure for about 48 hours before reinstalling.

Q: Can I put the D16A DOHC head on my EW block?
A: This answer comes from John Killen- A D16A cylinder head bolt holes are in the exact same location as the Civic head, and the oil port to the head is in the correct location also, so it can be bolted to the Civic block, however, the oil drains don't quite match although they're close enough to probably work. You'll have to use the D16A head gasket because the sealing ring is smaller on the Civic. You can use the Civic distributor (because it's got the sensors inside it required for the ECU to operate the fuel injection) if you're using the Civic ECU. (You'll have to plug the hole at the end of the exhaust cam where the Integra's sensor housing would normally be mounted.) I have no idea if there is a cam belt and tensioner that'll fit that configuration though. If you were able to get it to work, you'd probably be the first to actually do it.

Q: What can I do to make my HF engine more powerful?
A: Due to the HF motor's lack of performance potential, I'd suggest an Si long block and tranny mated to a DX intake manifold with a Weber 34DMTR sitting on it. This will be the most bang for the buck, and very easy to do since you will retain the carb’ed system. Check out http://www.piercemanifolds.com for carbs.

Q: How do I reset the ECU?
A: This involves removing electrical power to the ECU to "erase" its memory and then restarting the already warm engine and letting it idle for a few minutes WITHOUT touching the gas pedal.

Q: How do I check to see if my alternator is working OK?
A: This answer comes from CRXpanda on the Yahoo Mk1 CRX message board:
Test the voltage the battery receives while running (you can use the cigarette lighter plug as a test lead--I use a cig lighter plug, run the wires to the respective + / - to a multimeter) I do this and drive and watch the voltages when I use accessories, hit brakes, turn on lights, etc. It should be 13-14 volts operating, 12.35 or so with engine off. If the voltage while running is 13-14v then check at the battery while it is running, it should also be 13-14 or so. If it is 12 or 11 or lower, your alternator wire or fuse link behind the battery is gone/going.
If your alternator is not putting out 13-14v then it could be one of 2 things: 1- bad alternator. 2- bad regulator PLUG pigtail/wire (the plug in the alternator). Either way you should remove it and take it to the nearest parts store to have it bench tested. If they say the alternator is good, then it is your plug... if they say it is a bad alt. then check the ohms (continuity) of the wires of the plug and bolt-on wire (should be 0 ohms to 0.03 ohms---a/k/a no resistance).
If the above are within tolerances, then check your battery. If it is not a good one, it will cause the car to run solely on the alternator, and cause the same symptoms you described. In so many words, you are using up the alternator power and the battery isn't good to catch it, so it is dependant on the rpm's ---more speed, more charge, less speed less charge.
My car does what you say, but I know that it is from my 400A per channel amplifier and my 10-inch subwoofers, 6x9's, 8" speakers, and neons. When I turn them off, the voltage goes back to 13v, while on --with wipers, fan, and headlights it may be around 11v and dropping, except during high rpm.


Brake Questions

Q: Can I put rear disk brakes on my car?
A: Yes, but you will need to graft the rear axle from a 1st Gen Integra onto your car to make it happen. Another alternative is to replace the iron rear drums with aluminum drums from the HF model. This saves weight and works just as well as the Integra rear disks. You will have to change the rear brake backing plate to a HF plate to make the aluminum drums fit, but that is a relatively easy job.

Q Will the Integra's larger front caliper, and rotors bolt right on to my CRX?
A: Yes, and the Integra brakes will fit under 13" wheels.

Q: Should I use slotted or cross-drilled rotors?
A: For street driving, the plain OEM style rotors are just fine. Slotted rotors allow the gas that forms between the pad and the rotors to escape. If you do a lot of hard driving in hot conditions slotted disks may be good for you. Cross-drilled also do that and are lighter. But cheap cross-drilled rotors are subject to cracking. Expensive cross-drilled rotors are cryogenically treated to prevent cracking.

Q: I am not certain my brake booster is OK, how do I check I?
A: From the Mk1CRX group on Yahoo groups: To test the brake booster, try the following procedures: 1. With the engine off, press the brake pedal several times. Then press it hard and hold that pressure for 15 seconds. If the pedal sinks, a brake line, wheel cylinder or master cylinder is faulty. 2. Start the engine with the pedal pressed. If the pedal sinks slightly, the booster is working. If the pedal height doesn't vary, the booster or check valve is faulty. 3. Press the brake pedal with the engine running. Then stop the engine. If the pedal height does not vary for 30 seconds the booster is OK. If the pedal rises, the booster is faulty. 4. With the engine off press the pedal several times with normal pressure. When the pedal is first pressed, it should be low. On consecutive applications, pedal height should gradually rise. If pedal height does not vary, check booster check valve. The check valve is the thing in the big vacuum line going to the booster, which is below the master cylinder in the engine compartment.

Q: What is the best upgrade for the Master Cylinder?
A: This answer comes from Scott Mullin http://www.mullinator.com/crx
The '88-'91 Prelude MC (15/16" diameter) fits right up to the stock
lines. Perfectly. CarParts.com and WrenchHead.com have good prices on
rebuilt units, FWIW. The end that fits into the booster requires a little machining, though. It's aluminum, so a hand file and an hour does just fine. I don't think power tools would be any better, BTW. TIP: If possible, I would recommend you secure the MC in a vice during the machining (and the initial bench bleeding). I would bet that would cut your time in half. The part of the MC that fits into the stock power booster is about 3/16" thick, it's a cylinder with a 15/16" inner diameter. You have to machine the outer 1/8" to make it fit. All it takes is patience and a bastard file. Use some blue RTV sealant as a final gasket and you're done. The MC is obviously slightly thicker than the stock one, but not appreciably longer. As I mentioned above, the brake line fittings are in exactly the same place as the stocker.
The fluid reservoir is quite a bit wider, but with the stock fuel injection, there were no clearance problems. The reservoir is not appreciably taller, as I remember. There were also no clearance problems with my aftermarket strut bar.
TIPS: When you buy your MC (or pick it up at a junkyard and rebuild it
You), buy an MC bench bleeding kit. I got mine at PepBoys for next to nothing. It's just a couple of bits of plastic and a few instructions. I had to ask for it at the parts counter, though; it wasn't on the floor. Also buy some brake fluid-- get DOT3 or DOT4, DOT5 is not compatible with the factory system. I recommend going to the Ford dealer (yes, the Ford dealer) and buying some of their Ford HD Brake Fluid. They may have changed the name in the past month or two, but whatever they give you is the right stuff. If you're anal like me, you should consider flushing your brake system during this process. DOT3/4 fluid absorbs some water, over time. You'll want to bleed your car at all four corners about a week after the install. That'll clean out any last little bits of air. It wasn't until the final bleed that I got the maximum benefit.



Transmission Questions

Q: Who makes a short shifter for the 1st Gen CRX?
A: I have had both the Pacesetter (terrible) and the DC sport (great) short shifters in my '87 Si. If you install a short shifter, the effort to change gears increases. Something to get used to. The '88 and later short shifters will not fit the '87 and earlier cars. I used nylon washers in the connecting bolt of the shifter to smooth shift action.

Q: What is the difference between the cheaper Phantom Grip Limited Slip Differential (LSD) and the more expensive LSD from OPM?
A: Shane Portnoff answers: CRE and OPM make a limited slip, $650. The only difference between theirs and phantom grip is they put clutch plates in between the differential side gears and the carrier. The spring package is sandwiched in between the two side gears putting pressure at the clutch plates, creating "limited slip". Of course the clutch material will wear out also, but that is replaceable and probably cheaper than a new differential assembly. The phantom grip is just the spring package, so the friction created is between the side gears and the differential carrier. The friction coefficient must be kind of unpredictable plus the gears and carrier assembly will eventually wear out. Also there will be ground up metal inside the trans.

Q: Any tricks to installing a Mugen Limited slip Differential?
A: Yes, the Mugen LS diff is slightly shorter than the stock unit and it will rub against a "rib" inside the transmission case. The solution is to use a pair of pliers to snap the rib off and file down the rough edges. Use 75w90 transmission oil. Break in the new diff by driving in a series of figure eight's in a large parking lot. Drain the transmission oil and replace with new 75w90. King Motorsports recommends Redline MT90.



Suspension Questions

Q: I want stiffer front torsion bars.
A: OPM Motorsports and Ground Control sell thicker torsion bars made by Sway Away. And the 4WD version of the civic wagon has thicker torsion bars that will fit although they are bit longer than the CRX t-bars. 23mm is probably the thickest you would want for a street driven car, Mugen used to sell a set of 25mm bars and there are bars as thick as 29mm available from OPM.

Q: What is a good replacement for the rear springs?
A: You have two choices. The best, and more expensive choice is to buy coil overs from Ground control or OPM. The cheap choice is to get a set of Integra or Civic Wagon springs from the junkyard and cut a coil or two off of them.

Q: From what Honda products can I source sway bars and torsion bars?
A: Ballade, from the CRX Resource, provides this handy list:

Both the Si CRX and DX CRX had the same suspension Specs
Stock 84-87 SI & DX:
Front sway bar 16mm
Rear internal sway bar 15mm
Torsion bar 20mm @24.5" Long


Civic Wagon 2WD:
Front sway bar 20mm
Rear internal sway bar 15.5mm (won't fit into CRX beam axle due to end link)
Torsion bar 21mm @ 22.5"Long (shorter then CRX bar, need wagon torque tubes)
Thicker rear springs (cut to fit)

Civic Wagon 4WD:
Torsion Bars 21mm @ 24.75" Long (will work with CRX Torque tubes.)

Integra:
Front sway bar 19mm
Rear sway bar 17mm
Torsion bar 22mm they are longer then CRX bars and won't fit in lower arms Thicker rear springs Integra SE Rear internal sway bar 19mm

Q: What is the correct way to lower my 1st Gen CRX?
A: First the basics- the early CRX has torsion bars, rather than springs in the front. Honda used T-bars to save space, reduce unsprung weight and allow a lower front profile. In the rear, there is a beam axle located by trailing arms and a Panhard bar with coil springs. Inside the rear axle is a torsion bar that acts as a rear sway bar. In the front, there is a conventional sway bar. To lower the car, you need shorter springs and reset torsion bars

***Important Note*** When you lower the rear, the axle moves closer to the driver's side. To correctly reposition the rear axle to the center of the car, you will need an adjustable Panhard bar. They are available from www.opmmotorsports.com.

Coil overs are the best way to lower the rear. www.ground-control.com sells a couple different options for coil overs. If you are cheap you can use the rear springs from the Civic Wagon or the Integra and cut one coil off. Cutting coil springs is generally not a good idea, but the simplicity of the CRX rear suspension allows a measure of crudeness. In the front, the front torsion bars can be adjusted lower about 1/2" by loosening the adjustment nut underneath the car on each side. To get the front really low, you will need to take the torsion bars out and reposition them 1 notch lower. If your car is a 100% racecar, get the thickest torsion bars you can find (OPM Motorsports has a selection).

Lowering the car reduces suspension travel. You can increase suspension travel by filing off the brake line bracket on the front struts and positioning the struts 1-inch lower in the front knuckles. Camber plates will also give you some more suspension travel at the top of the strut.

Adjustable struts are expensive, but they allow you the opportunity to fine-tune your suspension. If you are not racing, maybe you do not need adjustable struts.

Increasing camber and caster will wear out your tires faster, but will help you on the racetrack. An alternative to camber plates is to bolt on the lower arms from an Integra to get about 1 degree of negative camber. Caster can be added by loosening the sub-frame, pulling the entire front end forward with a winch and then re-tightening the sub-frame.

Suspension Techniques and OPM sell a bolt on rear sway bar, which is a good idea to add to your car.
There are many opinions about the front sway bar on the CRX. Some people suggest removing it completely, others advocate using the thicker Civic Wagon front sway bar. Changing the front sway bar is a PITA. For street and Autocross use, I kept the stock bar with new bushings.

Q: What is the best way to increase negative camber in the front end.
A: You can buy a camber plate from OPM Motorsports (expensive) or you can bolt on the lower arms from a first gen. Integra that you can buy from a junkyard (cheap). The Integra arms are a little longer than the CRX arms so you get about 1 degree of negative camber that way, but you have no real adjustment. The camber plates give you the option to dial in as much or as little camber as you want.

Q: How can I increase caster?
A: OPM sells a camber plate with caster adjustments. One trick you can use is to loosen all of the bolts that hold the sub-frame to the car and then uses a winch to pull the sub-frame forward a bit. Re-tighten the bolts and you have just increased the caster.

Q: I want to change the camber and toe of my rear wheels.
A: Moog makes a set of shims to make these adjustments. Between the trailing arm and the rear hub are four bolts holding everything together. A guy on the island of Malta has told me that he made the adjustments to his rear suspension with a couple of washers between the trailing arm and the top two bolts. And he got some toe out by putting an extra washer into the front two bolts.

Q: Quicker steering?
A: The HF model has a quicker steering ratio rack and pinion so you can put that into your DX or Si.

Q: Could I make my own adjustable Panhard Bar?
A: Yes, the following is from the 1st Gen Integra web sire www.g1teg.org.

How To modify 84-87 Civic/CRX and 86-89 Integra Panhard bar:

To make this mod simpler, I suggest picking a used Panhard bar from a wrecking yard. You will also need about 3' of 3/4" diameter pipe, and a suitable sized bolt to fit inside of the above mentioned pipe snuggly. The bolt should be 3-5" in length, and you will also need two nuts to fit the bolt. I used a 9/16" bolt because it fit snug in the pipe I used; this size will vary depending on the pipe you use. This mod does require welding, if you cant weld it, any shop with a MIG welder should be able to weld this for you for a small charge, 1/2 hour of shop time, max. Since you will be welding to the parts of the old Panhard bar, you will need to remove the bushings; otherwise they will be burned during the welding. I strongly suggest polyurethane bushings as a replacement.

Now it is very important to measure the overall length of the Panhard bar and keep note of it. The easiest way to do this is to use a piece of cardboard and trace out the Panhard bar. Once the Panhard bar has been measured, cut a section from the middle about 1', leaving some of the channel at both ends. All excess paint needs to be removed for welding, sand down the inside of the channel to expose clean metal. Also during welding the undercoat paint will peel and burn off, to get rid off the undercoat just burn it off with a propane or acetylene torch. Let the pieces cool off. Now the bolt you will use for the adjustment should fit snug in the pipe. Cut only the head off of the bolt with a hacksaw. Spin on one of the nuts 1 or 2 turns. Measure the remaining threads left for the nut to spin onto, keep note of this measurement as well as mark the bolt.

Now the smaller bushing end (the frame end) is where I put the adjustment, to make it possible to adjust it without removing the whole Panhard bar. So this part of the old channel can be cut a little shorter than the bigger bushing end. Now lay the two pieces of the original Panhard bar onto the cardboard you traced it on to. Measure the distance between bushing sleeves, subtract the amount of adjustment left on the bolt and this is the length of the pipe overall. Cut the pipe to length, then cut it into 2 sections one short and one long. Now assemble everything on the cardboard, sliding the pipe into the channel until it bottoms against the bushing sleeves, setting the bolt partially into the short tube at your earlier mark and resting the nut against the long tube. Make sure you allow for the adjustment to mostly shorten the Panhard bar, unless you plan on lifting your Teg.

Now double check your overall length, and mark all the joints with an indelible marker or chalk, so you know where to line things up when welding. It is crucial to keep the pipe straight/square in the channel while welding. Use a vice to hold the channel, then place the appropriate pipe in the channel, making sure the pipe lays flat against the top part of the channel, double check the marks you made earlier then use the vice to squeeze the channel so that it clamps the pipe in place. Check your marks and begin welding. Repeat this process for the other end. Now insert the bolt into the short piece of pipe and line it up with its marks, then weld it in place. Last is the nut to be welded on the long piece, this is a little tricky to square up. Set the pipe straight up and down in the vice and place the nut on the end, Tack weld the nut to the pipe on one side only. Using a square check and adjust the nut as required and weld completely. Once it has cooled from the welding spin on the second nut all the way, this is the lock nut. Assemble the rest of the Panhard bar, paint it and install your new bushings. You can now install this in your car and adjust as necessary. Don't forget to tighten that lock nut.

Q: How would I install a set of aftermarket torsion bars?
A: This answer comes from Scott Mullin www.mullinator.com/crx:

Set the emergency brake and loosen the front lug nuts. Raise the car using the bump under the radiator, in the center of the front of the car. This positioning will allow more clearance for your work area. But remember; most folks do not consider working under a car supported only by a jack as safe.

You should use jack stands. I warned you. * Remove the wheel. * Remove the 17mm screw that locates the strut cartridge in the steering knuckle. Jiggle the strut to make sure it's free of the knuckle. Also remove the 17mm height-adjusting nut and the dust cap on the front of the torque tube. * Hit the newly revealed front opening of the torque tube w/ PB Blaster. * Remove the 2- 12mm screws that hold the cup at the back of the torque tube to the frame rail. * Remove the cup. It is held on pretty well even after you remove the screws—here is the best method for removal I've found, so far. Hit it with PB Blaster. Liberally. Then alternately tap the top and bottom lips of the cup (the metal part, not the rubber insert) with the edge of your large flat-blade screwdriver. I found my 3lb hammer worked much faster than my 16oz. Patience will pay large dividends. Trust me, it will come off. * Remove the circlip from the rear end of the t-bar.* HOLD SOMETHING WOODEN LIKE A BROOM HANDLE OR A DOWEL against the back of the bar and hammer it forward. Again, a 3lb short-handled hammer works wonders here. You need to move the bar just far enough forward to reveal the wire clip at the front. Do not bash the bar past this point, it will make it more difficult to remove the bar later. * Remove the front clip and tap the bar all the way out, toward the rear of the vehicle. Remember this: if you encounter much resistance when attempting to move the bar, you have done something wrong. Double-check that the strut cartridge is free and that you removed the height-adjusting nut. * Remove the torque tube. Once the bar is out, the tube slides to the rear and off of the car. * If you choose not to machine the torque tube, match your aftermarket bars to the stock ones. Set the torque tube in place. Slide it as far forward as you can. Make sure you position the hole for the height-adjustment mechanism over the bolt onto which the nut will install. Do not install the nut, yet. * Grease the splined ends and insert the bar. You will have to align the key on the front end of the bar with the appropriate keyway on the arm that bolts to the lower control arm. * Now rotate the torque tube until its adjusting arm is about halfway up the adjusting bolt. Carefully engage the rear of the bar with the splines in the torque tube. If you apply very slight forward pressure with your hand, you will feel the splines as you wiggle the torque tube. Once you have engaged the splines, USE THE WOODEN DOWEL and your hammer to slide the bar forward until the circlip hits the tube. If you encounter more than moderate resistance, you are doing something wrong. If you go gorilla on the t-bar, you are going to have to buy a whole new set. Don't even think about getting a replacement torque tube. Install the front dust cap and the height-adjusting nut. * Apply a light coating of grease to the torque tube cup and the rubber insert and reinstall. * Reinstall the screw that locates the strut cartridge in the steering knuckle. * Reinstall the wheel with the lug nuts finger-tight. * Put the wheel back on, drop the car, and set the height-adjusting nut as best you can. Don't worry about it too much; the height-adjustment procedure takes a few tries before everything is correct. * Tighten the lug nuts.


Junkyard Parts List


From the '84-'87 HF-

Right side mirror delete
Clock delete
Radio delete
Bumper supports
Door panels
Front air dam
Rear hatch
Center console
Rear brake drums and plates
Roller rockers (HF engines only have 8 valves)
Two ring pistons
Lighter wheel bearings
Steering rack
0.655 5th gear (look for the 19 and 29 tooth 5th gear set.)
Radiator
Axles



From the '84-'87 DX (AKA "1500")-
A pillar grab handle

From the 1985 Si-
140mph speedo

For the 1500 or DX-
Si exhaust manifold and downpipe
Si head, oil pan, and oil pickup
From any '85-'87 Si model if you are upgrading to fuel injection-
Fuel tank/fuel pump/fuel lines
Wiring harness
ECU

From the ’86-‘89 Integra-
Front rotors, calipers and brackets
Rear brakes/rear axle/parking brake cables
Rear sway bar
Engine/transmission/axles/shift linkage/ECU
ECU (‘86-‘87 manual transmission only)
Injectors
Radius arms (creates negative camber on the CRX)
Rear springs

From the '85-'87 Civic Wagon (Transit) 4WD-
Front sway bar
Torsion bars



Links: These are not the only places to find 1st Gen CRX stuff, but this a good list of places to start looking.

www.cyberauto.com (1st Gen stuff in stock)
www.suspension.com (1st Gen bushings in stock!)
www.improvedtouring.com (racers selling parts)
www.d-a-p.com (Specializing in used Honda and Acura parts)
www.g1teg.org (The 1st Gen Integra webs site)
www.housemanautosport.com (Mugen style body kits)
http://www.claysmithcams.com (performance camshafts, pistons, rods, etc.)
http://www.car-part.com (a national database of junkyards, with pix!)
http://www.aempower.com (cam gears, underdrive pulleys)
http://www.unorthodoxracing.com (more pulleys, flywheels, etc.)
http://www.purehonda.com (Honda/Acura aftermarket performance guide)
http://www.dcsports.com (GOOD quality!)
http://www.cyberauto.com (performance goodies for "mature" CRX’s)
http://www.ground-control.com (good suspension stuff)
http://www.opmmotors....com/honda.html (lots of goodies here!)
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com (Majestic Honda's website)
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.net (Majestic Acura’s website)
http://www.webcom.com/wv/crx/parts (Used Honda Parts)
http://www.hparts.com (Genuine Honda parts)
http://manhonda.com (Manchester Honda's website)
http://www.thepartst...om/mainpage.cfm (swap parts)
http://www.raxles.com/INDEX1.htm (Axles)
http://www.hasport.com/index.html (THE site for motor swaps)
http://www.pierceman...om/products.htm (Weber carbs and intake manifolds) http://www.twminduction.com (more intake solutions here)
http://hybrid.honda-...ch/westech.html (a Hybrid Honda site)
http://crx.honda-perf.org (lots of good CRX info here)
http://kumo.swcp.com.../crx/specs.html (More good 1st Gen specs here)
http://www.redshift.ca (Canadian seller of JDM parts)
http://www.addco.net (aftermarket sway bars)
http://www.shox.com (shocks)
http://www.porterfield-brakes.com (great brake pads and shoes!)
http://www.gude.com (performance camshafts and heads)
http://www.theoldone.com (Endyn's educational website)
http://www.rivergate...erformance.html (race parts)
http://www.paintscratch.com (touch-up paint)
http://www.carbs.net (Weber carb info you will ever need)
www.kingmotorsports.com (US distributor for Mugen)


Specifications

Q: Where can I get specs for the First Gen. CRX engine?
A: www.quickhonda.net/specs.htm

Q: I am not certain I know what model (HF, DX, Si) my car is.
A: This answer comes from Mr. Kwicko- Check the VIN. It should read something like "JHMEC13xxHS000001". The first (bold) "x" marks the digit for the model. 1 = HF, 2 = Std (or DX), 4 = Si. Now, if you're still unsure, check the engine code. On the DX and HF models, there is a plate on the front radiator support, on the driver's side of the car (under the hood, behind the headlight, facing straight up at you as you look at the motor). D15A2 is the carb’ed 1500cc engine. On the Si, the plate is on the opposite, or passenger, side. It will be a D15A3 motor, which is the 1500cc Fuel Injected engine.

Q: What are the gear ratios of various 1st Gen CRX models and the 1st Gen Integra?
A: The ratios for the

EW5 (1.5)
1: 2.916:1
2: 1.764:1
3: 1.192:1
4: 0.866:1
5: 0.718:1
Reverse: 2.916:1
Final drive: 4.250:1

EW2 (1.3)-
1: 3.272:1
2: 1.666:1
3: 1.037:1
4: 0.774:1
5: 0.647:1
Reverse: 2.916:1
Final drive: 4.250:1

Shuttle 1500 (Civic Wagon in the US)-
1: 3.181:1
2: 1.823:1
3: 1.192:1
4: 0.866:1
5: 0.718:1
Reverse: 2.916:1
Final drive: 4.250:1

86-87 Integra
1: 3.181
2: 1.944
3: 1.347
4: 1.033
5: 0.848 (88-89 Integra = 0.823)
R: 3.000
FD: 4.216

Torsion bar info from Fred Phun's book (thank you Criticalmass1 from the CRX Resource)

MM/Diameter Inches/Bar Length/Lever Arm/Constant Rate Lbs./In

29/1.141732283/24/13/1,178,000/494
27/1.062992126/24/13/1,178,000/371
26/1.023622047/24/13/1,178,000/319
25.6/1.007874016/24/13/1,178,000/300
25/0.984251969/24/13/1,178,000/273
24/0.94488189/24/13/1,178,000/232
23/0.905511811/24/13/1,178,000/195
20/0.787401575/24/13/1,178,000/112

This is the formula from my spreadsheet:
=E5*((B5^4)/((C5)*(D5^2)))